Error code 0042

[gofer]

The ISC isn't connected through sensor ground, I pulled up the Mitsu EL and looked at the 2.0l turbo diagram. Not sure why my online ARRC manual of 1g EL diagrams are jacked up, they were only pulling up 1.8l N/T even after I selected GSX too. You were also right about the MAF harness, it was across pin 6, again those were pin outs for the 1.8l.

Plug the ECU connector in and check continuity from any of the above sensor grounds to chassis ground, post your results.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Plug the ECU connector in and check continuity from any of the above sensor grounds to chassis ground, post your results.

ECU plugged in, Key on; On the DMM when I touched the sensor grounds to the battery ground or chassis ground it showed 1.3-1.5, not 0.00.

Also the ISC was firing off like crazy the whole time I was checking the continuity right now.

So what would have caused this? Do I send my ECU back to ECMtuning?

 

[gofer]

So if you've got one meter lead on TPS pin 4 and the other on the battery ground (no key in the ignition) whats the result?

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

So if you've got one meter lead on TPS pin 4 and the other on the battery ground (no key in the ignition) whats the result?

0.04

Here's a recap:

TPS pin 4 to sensor ground at ECU connector: 0.00
TPS pin 4 to battery ground key on: 1.50
TPS pin 4 to battery ground key off: 0.04

 

[gofer]

My bad Nate, on my way to work I was thinking about this and realized I didn't tell you to disconnect the ECU harness from the ECU and test TPS pin 4 to chassis ground. Sorry I wasted your time on that second test...

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

My bad Nate, on my way to work I was thinking about this and realized I didn't tell you to disconnect the ECU harness from the ECU and test TPS pin 4 to chassis ground. Sorry I wasted your time on that second test...

Don't worry about it Corey, I appreciate the help!

TPS pin 4 to battery ground ECU unplugged: No response from the DMM.

What would cause a blown sensor ground anyways?

 

[gofer]

Thats good then, nothing should show on the DMM (no continuity) with the ECU unplugged. That means nothing on the sensor ground side is shorted to the chassis. Pull your ECU and take the lid off of it and do a quick inspection looking for burns at the pin 17 & 24 tracks and under R104, on the bottom of the board).

A non OEM sensor (like a wideband) grounded through the sensor ground and not chassis ground or a shorted o2 sensor.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Thats good then, nothing should show on the DMM (no continuity) with the ECU unplugged. That means nothing on the sensor ground side is shorted to the chassis. Pull your ECU and take the lid off of it and do a quick inspection looking for burns at the pin 17 & 24 tracks and under R104, on the bottom of the board).

A non OEM sensor (like a wideband) grounded through the sensor ground and not chassis ground or a shorted o2 sensor.

No visible burns on the board, top or bottom. I'm about to go to work myself so we'll have to continue this tomorrow. If you think of anything else for me to check let me know and I'll do it tomorrow. I emailed Tom Dorris and gave him the link to this thread, hopefully he'll check it out and give his opinion on the matter.

 

[gofer]

Well hopefully Tom and Dave can shine some light on this because I'm left scratching my head.

You know your car better than anyone so if you can recall any shady wiring you might have done or if you had to change anything on the harness when you did the swap post up the info. I'm not saying you cut corners Nate, just trying to get to the bottom of this so your car works again. I'll be the first to admit, I've done some hack job wiring in my day, when my car started acting wierd I'd clean up my hack job and it would work again.

From the symptoms I see in the log and you not seeing any burns on the ECU board I'm still leaning towards it being a wiring/sensor issue.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Well hopefully Tom and Dave can shine some light on this because I'm left scratching my head.

You know your car better than anyone so if you can recall any shady wiring you might have done or if you had to change anything on the harness when you did the swap post up the info. I'm not saying you cut corners Nate, just trying to get to the bottom of this so your car works again. I'll be the first to admit, I've done some hack job wiring in my day, when my car started acting wierd I'd clean up my hack job and it would work again.

From the symptoms I see in the log and you not seeing any burns on the ECU board I'm still leaning towards it being a wiring/sensor issue.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/364498-rerouting-engine-wiring-harness.html

It is a factory turbo harness, not a modified non-turbo harness. I did reroute the harness as seen in that tech article I wrote ^. I shortened and rerouted the coolant temp sensors, o2 sensor, ISC, CAS, TPS, and completely removed, all the way back to the ECU, the solenoid pack plug, AC plugs, and BCS plugs. This was all done back in March before the swap and I haven't had any wiring issues since. Also nothing was messed with under the dash or near the ECU, besides removing a few wires completely, everything was under the hood.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Tom replied via e-mail and said just to send the ECU in to get it checked. I guess I'll just do it. While it's gone I can dig around in the harness and make sure I have continuity and no shorts and double check all my connections from where I cut the harness during the reroute.

 

[steve]

This was all done back in March before the swap and I haven't had any wiring issues since.

Until now...

Hopefully Tom and Dave will find something but from the issues you were seeing when you wiggled the wires around I'm afraid that they aren't going to find anything wrong and the issue is going to be in your harness.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I sent my ECU back to ECMtuning and it checkout fine. The problem ended up being that the ends of several of the wires where they connect to the pins on the ECU were loose so I adjusted them with a needle as per the FSM. I also swapped out the connector itself and now I'm getting normal readings from all my sensors and no more DTC's. Thanks for the help guys!!

 

[steve]

Glad it's solved and that it was the easy part of the harness.

 

[PierCed_3]

I'm having sort of the same problem indicated in the end of this thread. Getting the error code of 0014 TPS Sensor defective. I do have a wideband spliced into the #4 sensor but the wideband isn't working. It appears that the gauge is dead. Once I cut this splice, should everything work again? How do you fix a short? I just installed a rebuilt motor and pulled all the emissions out. Otherwise it's fairly stock.

 

[steve]

I do have a wideband spliced into the #4 sensor but the wideband isn't working.

I can't grasp what your describing here, what's a #4 sensor? and what part of the wideband is spliced in? Why does your wideband need to be connected to any part of the TPS circuit?