El Paso Roll Call

[sek_phok]

That gst was parked on balboa for a while. It belonged to Josh: endsurvivor. Great steal!

 

[tank2220]

sure did.. my lil bro used to take it to carshows...

 

[deek00]

500? dam does it run? if so that is a awesome crackhead like deal

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

Yeabeen infront of that mc donalds for months. Never saw a sign on it...lucky. Its the 'ouch' one

 

[mkofthabeast]

Yep thats the one. It is a guy that I work with so it wasnt really for sale I just mentioned I was gonna sell an integra I acquired and he said he would sell me the eclipse for 500 so I sold the integra that night.

 

[ramones987]

9!clipseDOHC - Nathan
yoshi_tony - tony
Mischif - Matt
b3n_91 - Ben
6bolt_97spyder - Jose
tank2220 - Sergio
fwbt - Jim
Copper90 - Larry
t4g63 - Miguel "Mike"
kpsc93TSi - kevin
jjm96gst
Beniger - Benny
Spanky_DSM - Sam
my spyder gsx9 - Isaac
KanaKa - Kanaka
Sikphok/ sek_phok - Josh
dsm915rider - Javi
307dsm - Luis
Alan11 - Alan
ArcticTsi - Jose
Sortiz92 - Sergio
Jay3 - Julian
EndSurvivor - Josh
Ed4G - Edwin(4G GT)
hooah07
2gBmP- Brian (2g gs-t spyder)
181161= Raul
Deek00= Derek
TerribleTSi - Matty
Chris_92TSi - Chris
SiNisTeR915 - Luis
SPAM -
Ramones987-Ramon

 

[915dsm]

Sup folks...from Cruces but close enough to say hi on the EP roll call.
I own a 91 Galant VR4...almost done.

Whats up Spam. Im new to tuners as of november of last year. I have a 95 gsx i have mod some.

I could say a i know a couple of guysfrom tuners. Yoshi and kanaka. Id like to see that VR4 as well.

My name is Hector.

 

[Alan11]

Anyone has a 2g Cam sensor for sale or free??? thanks guys.

 

[yoshi_tony]

Anyone has a 2g Cam sensor for sale or free??? thanks guys.

97-99 yeah i have 2 txt me

 

[seguroGST]

seguroGST--- Alex

 

[seguroGST]

Car should be back on the road Tuesday. Finally got the title issues and registration fixed . She passed inspection with a deleted cat. Don't ask questions she passed

 

[seguroGST]

well so much for that . cranked it up this mourning to warm it up and it cought on FIRE somewhere behind the dash.. so out of commision again!!!!! taking dash apart this weekend.

 

[yoshi_tony]

I have a 92 laser AWD shell if you need it for parts let me (915)346-8737

 

[seguroGST]

I have a 92 laser AWD shell if you need it for parts let me (915)346-8737

WOW thanks man . but i found out what it was my turbo gauge above my radio in dash disconected and it touches center metal bracket and the whole cable lit up it soped right at my fuse box thank god i was about to roll it down hill and let it burn FULL COVERAGE . thanks a lot do. paint and AWD convertion is my las thing to do when its close to finish . back on the road she should be by tmr

I have a 92 laser AWD shell if you need it for parts let me (915)346-8737

i blame it ob the solar flares.... the previouse owner kept his aem gauges .. i dont blame him , but he left all the wires in and it caused the fire. im good dissasembled dash and got it fixed and working again thanks for the offer.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

WOW thanks man . but i found out what it was my turbo gauge above my radio in dash disconected and it touches center metal bracket and the whole cable lit up it soped right at my fuse box thank god i was about to roll it down hill and let it burn FULL COVERAGE . thanks a lot do. paint and AWD convertion is my las thing to do when its close to finish . back on the road she should be by tmr

Thats crazy man. Good thing it wasn't worse! Do you keep an extinguisher in your car? I started keeping one in my car after another local DSMer's 2g went up in flames and he lost it. Cheap insurance.

 

[seguroGST]

Thats crazy man. Good thing it wasn't worse! Do you keep an extinguisher in your car? I started keeping one in my car after another local DSMer's 2g went up in flames and he lost it. Cheap insurance.

good thinking im going to get one.... i just bought the obd torque app thing so im hopping this will be cool to run a tablet with my gauges later on ..

so ive been driving the car for a week and and ive had my issues ..after a week of searching on this site(because my car goes where the road wants it to go , it drives straight but if the road wants it to not go straight then it wont .) i have KYB fully adj shocks on stock coils i was wondering that maybe i need new bushings a kit Enginering Bushings and i noticed my cv BOOT is broke. i want my car to drive as a DD and feel like it should ive had pleanty of older cars but this one feels light and loose and all over the place. MY QUESTION IS.. besides bushings and broke boot what do i need to get specifically to make the car feel like it should ??? and trust me im asking here because i dont want everyone to think i dint do my research

 

[ArcticTsi]

Sad to hear about the fire, but at least you are straight and the car. Sounds like the damage is minimal. As far as getting your car to feel tight and drive true, here is my two cents. I dont know your setup up on the suspension, but here is my recommendations. Check all your connection points. Make sure your sway bars have all their mounting hardware, plus all their bushings. The factory ones are rubber and tend to deteriorate. Then make your way to the end links. Same thing make sure all the bolts are there, as well as the rubber bushings. Ideally you would like to replace all the rubber bits with some good poly bushings. Also, look at your upper control arms. They to have a bushing that is in their that can go out. Just basically all your suspensioneometry is correct, bolted, and up to spec. Like I said dont know your suspension, but if it its stock or a second hand set, make sure your struts arent blown. If so replace. Easy test is to pull it out, take off the spring. If you can compress it with minimal effort. Its on the way out. If you push down on it and it stays compressed, its dead. But also make sure the bushing on the bottom circulart mount points is there. as well as the two sandwich type bushings at the top mount. If your springs are cut factory or other wise, go with some legit lowering performance springs. Never want to have cut springs on a performance car that will see spirited driving. Their ratings will be all off. Lastly just double check your axles and hubs. Make sure everything is seated properly and that there is no play. One more thing, make sure your tires are not overinflated. If they are pretty hard they will tend to follow the grooves/lines in the road. This will also give an erratic feeling when driving. As if the car has a mind of its own.

If you knew all this my bad. I am a bit of a suspension nut, so in my car I have really focused on it. More than anyother aspect.
Later,
Jose
ArcticTsi

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

To add to what Jose said, lift up the front end of your car and see if you can wiggle the wheels. If you can figure out where the play is and go from there. Could be anything at this point. If you CV joint is dry then you will probably need to replace the whole assembly. If it is still greased and the tear in the boot looks new, then you should be able to get away with a new boot and grease.

Jose, How's the car coming? There is an AutoX tomorrow from about 9-3 and I just found out that the track will be open tomorrow at 5 with one lane fully prepped and they are calling for low 70's and sun! I'm going to try to do both.

 

[ArcticTsi]

Jose, How's the car coming? There is an AutoX tomorrow from about 9-3 and I just found out that the track will be open tomorrow at 5 with one lane fully prepped and they are calling for low 70's and sun! I'm going to try to do both.

Nothing new from what I posted in the 14b thread. I can only really work on the car on the weekend. Then last weekend I had to go to LA. So I did not do anything. But today I have planned the day to pull more weight out of the car. So we'll see what today brings.

Good luck at the track. be sure to throw up some updates in your blog. Would like to see how it goes.

 

[seguroGST]

Sad to hear about the fire, but at least you are straight and the car. Sounds like the damage is minimal. As far as getting your car to feel tight and drive true, here is my two cents. I dont know your setup up on the suspension, but here is my recommendations. Check all your connection points. Make sure your sway bars have all their mounting hardware, plus all their bushings. The factory ones are rubber and tend to deteriorate. Then make your way to the end links. Same thing make sure all the bolts are there, as well as the rubber bushings. Ideally you would like to replace all the rubber bits with some good poly bushings. Also, look at your upper control arms. They to have a bushing that is in their that can go out. Just basically all your suspensioneometry is correct, bolted, and up to spec. Like I said dont know your suspension, but if it its stock or a second hand set, make sure your struts arent blown. If so replace. Easy test is to pull it out, take off the spring. If you can compress it with minimal effort. Its on the way out. If you push down on it and it stays compressed, its dead. But also make sure the bushing on the bottom circulart mount points is there. as well as the two sandwich type bushings at the top mount. If your springs are cut factory or other wise, go with some legit lowering performance springs. Never want to have cut springs on a performance car that will see spirited driving. Their ratings will be all off. Lastly just double check your axles and hubs. Make sure everything is seated properly and that there is no play. One more thing, make sure your tires are not overinflated. If they are pretty hard they will tend to follow the grooves/lines in the road. This will also give an erratic feeling when driving. As if the car has a mind of its own.

If you knew all this my bad. I am a bit of a suspension nut, so in my car I have really focused on it. More than anyother aspect.
Later,
Jose
ArcticTsi

thanks for the advice much appreaciated .. i noticed some bushing were compleatly gone so im going to have to replace themall and i was thinking of getting some 08 eclipse rims and with this suspension right now its not ideal. thanks for the info

2008 eclipse rims 18"

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To add to what Jose said, lift up the front end of your car and see if you can wiggle the wheels. If you can figure out where the play is and go from there. Could be anything at this point. If you CV joint is dry then you will probably need to replace the whole assembly. If it is still greased and the tear in the boot looks new, then you should be able to get away with a new boot and grease.

Jose, How's the car coming? There is an AutoX tomorrow from about 9-3 and I just found out that the track will be open tomorrow at 5 with one lane fully prepped and they are calling for low 70's and sun! I'm going to try to do both.

you think this might be good. ive been shooping around and this is unexpensive just wondering if its all i need or is ther anything not included here that i need to also get
Auto Part Number 13-101BL From Prothane | StreetPerformance.com

 

[ArcticTsi]

you think this might be good. ive been shooping around and this is unexpensive just wondering if its all i need or is ther anything not included here that i need to also get
Auto Part Number 13-101BL From Prothane | StreetPerformance.com

For the price that is a awesome deal. I would try to research to see what all components are included. Some time fo advertisment sake they use a stock/generic photo. So everything you see pictured more than likely is not included. Cause I see even endlinks in that photo. So just look for an itemized list of what is included. But at that price you cant go wrong.

On a side note on the Prothane part numbers, if you see a "BL" in the number it is for black poly. If you want their standard red poly bushings, look for the same part number without the "BL" on it. For example, just search for Prothane 13-101

 

[seguroGST]

For the price that is a awesome deal. I would try to research to see what all components are included. Some time fo advertisment sake they use a stock/generic photo. So everything you see pictured more than likely is not included. Cause I see even endlinks in that photo. So just look for an itemized list of what is included. But at that price you cant go wrong.

On a side note on the Prothane part numbers, if you see a "BL" in the number it is for black poly. If you want their standard red poly bushings, look for the same part number without the "BL" on it. For example, just search for Prothane 13-101

dint think of that . Thanks. Your car is on a diet from a photo I saw. Good luck at tracks

 

[fwbt]

The 13-101 is the subframe bushing kit. It only includes the ones for the subframe itself. Just the 4 bushings that hold that stamped piece up. I wish i had my pics here. There's a write up on the VFAQ about it. I ended up dropping the entire subframe and steering rack, a huge PITA. It seems like a lot of work for mediocre results. There's no total kit for the 1G from prothane, so you have to piece it all together.
Here's the write up

Polyurethane bushing install

In the end being a FWD car, pretty much all you have is the control arm bushings and the sway bar bushings. There's a kit for the rear sway bar though too. The control arms are straight forward and the sway bar ones can be a PITA too. After you install the bushings be sure you do two things. First torque the control arms with the car on the ground. Second, do NOT hesitate on getting an alignment after that. Just be aware of those few things and you'll be good to go.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

The 13-101 is the subframe bushing kit. It only includes the ones for the subframe itself. Just the 4 bushings that hold that stamped piece up. I wish i had my pics here. There's a write up on the VFAQ about it. I ended up dropping the entire subframe and steering rack, a huge PITA. It seems like a lot of work for mediocre results. There's no total kit for the 1G from prothane, so you have to piece it all together.
Here's the write up

Polyurethane bushing install

In the end being a FWD car, pretty much all you have is the control arm bushings and the sway bar bushings. There's a kit for the rear sway bar though too. The control arms are straight forward and the sway bar ones can be a PITA too. After you install the bushings be sure you do two things. First torque the control arms with the car on the ground. Second, do NOT hesitate on getting an alignment after that. Just be aware of those few things and you'll be good to go.

Nice to see you posting here Jim! When are you coming back? Just to add to that, on a FWD there isn't a rear sway bar per say, but they do have bushings for the rear track bar and for the rear control arms. Here are some polyurethane bushing tech articles specifically for the 1g FWD's:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/263693-energy-suspension-hyperflex-master-kit-1g-fwd-overview.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/264038-energy-suspension-hyperflex-kit-1g-fwd-front-control-arm-bushings-install.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/263926-energy-suspension-hyperflex-kit-1g-fwd-rear-control-arm-bushings-install.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/263856-energy-suspension-hyperflex-kit-1g-fwd-subframe-bushings-install.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/264008-energy-suspension-hyperflex-kit-1g-fwd-front-19mm-sway-bar-bushings-install.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-suspension-brakes/263962-energy-suspension-hyperflex-kit-1g-fwd-rear-track-arm-bushings-install.html

I have done the front control arms, front sway bar, and rear track bar bushings already (along with the motor mounts). The rear control arm bushings are next on my list. It is a very affordable way to stiffen up your suspension if you are willing to put in the time to do it.

 

[fwbt]

Yeah, I biffed that one, bad considering I started out on a Laser N/T...
Well, if you don't count the R&R... late this year. But it gets me some goodies in the meantime. MAP stroker short block, FP30 turbo, and a new trans to name a few. We'll do something when the time gets closer I think.