Easiest Way To Remove Engine.

Posted by combatmedic, Mar 11, 2010
Maintenance & Repairs - Oil choices, timing belt, setting timing, CV boot replacement, alternator servicing, fuse/relay checks, and other basic maintenance, repair and diagnosis discussions. Probationary Members can post here.

  1. combatmedic

    combatmedic Proven Member

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    Fountain, Colorado
    So I just bought a 95 eclipse gst with a blown motor. I am going to attempt to do a 6 bolt swap but I am just wondering if I can just pull out the motor or if I have to drop the suspension to get the motor mounts off??
    #1
  2. jbus

    jbus Proven Member

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    south haven, Michigan
    Best Answer
    I always have pulled the engine and tranny together. i always attach the picker to the top starter bolt and the front ps bracket with a chain offset further towards the driver side. Once i put tension on the engine out come the motor mounts and finally the bottom cross member. if you set your chain up right the engine will swing up and the tranny will tilt down and you can raise it up fairly quick easy in no more than 5 minutes.
    #31
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  3. tallywacker

    tallywacker Proven Member

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    Mercersburg, Pennsylvania
    Go buy a Chilton or Haynes manual.


    To answer your question as vaguely as you asked it, just disconnect everything attached to the motor and you'll be fine.
    #2
  4. Indian

    Indian Proven Member

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    Paradise, California
    As long as you can get the axles out you can leave the suspension on and pull it out. I have a 1G wich is probably different,but I just unbolted the lower strut mount,pulled the axles out,and left the supension in place.
    #3
  5. gorf

    gorf Proven Member

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    Chapel hill, North_Carolina
    like everything - it depends...

    When I was going to pull my engine, I was told to pull the engine and tranny as one unit. The biggest advantage to this is that you can then clean the whole engine compartment and fix/paint any rust.

    As far as level of difficulty, it would probably depend on your shop and equipment available. The engine compartment is small, the engine can be pulled by itself but it is a tight fit. Pulling the engine and tranny together there is a lot more disassembly required. Again it gives you a chance clean stuff up.

    get a manual and do some searches, I'm sure this has been covered before...
    #4
  6. donniekak

    donniekak DSM Wiseman

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    Surprise, Arizona
    #5
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  7. cookmeup272

    cookmeup272 Proven Member

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    Utica, New_York
    If you have an engine hoist or some way to remove the motor out from the top then it is much easier. Jack the car up and remove the front wheels. Remove the two bolts on each side connecting the strut. Remove the 32mm axle nut and pin(if u have it) on each side. You are going to have to wrestle with the axle to remove it from the hub. Once they are out of the hub, use a crowbar to "pop" the axle out of the transmission. On the Driver side you have to remove the 3 bolts connecting the half shaft to the block. Once this is done, disconnect the exhaust system. i would also remove the turbo/o2 housing/header to make it a bit easier. Next start unplugging all the electrical wires and hoses, labeling them as you go along so you know where everything goes. Once this is all done, all you have to do is remove the mounts connecting the tranny/motor to the frame and you should be able to pull it out. If you dont have a hoist, jack the car up as high as you can and put a jack underneath the transmission and the motor. Once the mounts are out, slowly lower both jacks on the tranny and the motor and pull it out from the bottom. Using the hoist is much easier, and safer to do. You can get one from Harbor Freight for like 60 bucks i think
    #6
  8. combatmedic

    combatmedic Proven Member

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    Fountain, Colorado
    thanks for your help, I have a few more questions with this swap if you can help me out with. I am going by this "how to" http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/152329-how-do-6-bolt-swap-what-you-need.html
    I just have a few questions:
    1. Im a little confused with step 4 when he talks about the AC
    2. Does the 2g intake manifold bolt up to the 1g head because number 5 confuses me
    3. I am confused with 14 and 15.

    Thanks for your help I really want to get this project done.
    #7
  9. LD25Delta9

    LD25Delta9 Proven Member

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    Ft. Wayne, Indiana
    BWA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA!!!!ROFLROFLROFL:applause:HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA!!!!ROFL
    #8
  10. cookmeup272

    cookmeup272 Proven Member

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    Utica, New_York
    Well there are lots of numbers on there, so im not sure which ones u are referring to. Number 4 with the ac, I cant help you with. And now what are you confused about with 14?When you get the clutch you will get an alignment tool. Its a little peg looking thing, you put it through the clutch and into the hole where the input shaft on the tranny goes. While it is help up by the tool, you put the pressure plate over the alignment tool and bolt it into place. The alignment tool is there so it stays in place and doesn't slip down when you are trying to bolt the PP to the block.
    #9
  11. combatmedic

    combatmedic Proven Member

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    Fountain, Colorado
    ok so I have never messed with transmissions I have only swapped heads. Do you put the cluth then pressure plate onto the engine or transmission?
    #10
  12. mindset

    mindset Proven Member

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    Brunswick, Ohio
    ROFLROFLROFL That just made my day hahahahahha
    #11
  13. Venom13132

    Venom13132 Proven Member

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    Indianapolis, Indiana
    im pulling mine right now. I just removed the wiring harness from the engine,removed the radiator, took the intake and turbo pipes off, took the ac condensor off and left it attached to the lines, pulled the starter, pulled the fuel rail, dropped the down pipe, pulled the half shafts, supported the engine with the hoist removed the mounts, lowered the engine/trans to clear the trans mount and pulled it out the top. I also took the hood off first.
    #12
  14. LiquidX

    LiquidX DSM Wiseman

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    New Cumberland, Pennsylvania
    Engine puller was awesome! Just rips the heart right out :hellyeah::rocks:

    Clarify on the numbes or just copy and paste the directions on here that you are questioning.

    A 2g IM will not bolt up to the 1g head. Ports are completly different on both. You can however use a 2g head on a 1g block after drilling out the head stud holes on the head by 1mm and doing the oil port mod on the bottom left hole (#4 cylinder position). This will give you a higher velocity intake charge and can use the Evo3/RVR IM. Great combination.
    #13
  15. JAX2Ganey

    JAX2Ganey Proven Member

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    Hyattsville, Maryland
    :hmm: I think i'll use the 'Scorpion' for my next swap.
    #14
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  16. cookmeup272

    cookmeup272 Proven Member

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    Utica, New_York
    Put the alignment tool inside the clutch. Put the same end inside the motor. It should suspend itself. Put the PP on the alignment tool from the other end. Turn the PP until the bolt holes line up. Torque the bolts down and then slide out the alignment tool
    #15
  17. combatmedic

    combatmedic Proven Member

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    Fountain, Colorado
    so let me ask you something, the 7 bolt that is in the car spun a bearing so would there be a good chance that there are metal shavings in the head? Im asking because I would imagine it would be easier to just use the 2g head and just make the holes in the block bigger, am I right.
    #16
  18. cookmeup272

    cookmeup272 Proven Member

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    Utica, New_York
    There could be metal in there. Me personally, i have a 7 bolt 1g that spun a rod bearing. I am not gonna tear apart the whole thing to get them all out. When i take it out and get the crank fixed and replace the bearings, i will end up doing oil changes at 50 miles, 100 miles, 200 miles, 500 miles and then 1000 miles. I also have a magnetic drain plug which helps. I will probably take the oil pan off at 200 miles and 1000 miles to get the shavings that arent removed by changing the oil and the plug.
    #17
  19. combatmedic

    combatmedic Proven Member

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    Fountain, Colorado
    so to use the 7 bolt head alls i have to do is get a tap and dye set and make the holes in the block 1mm bigger?
    #18
  20. Tanro

    Tanro Proven Member

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    Madison, Alabama
    Yep the video is definetly easy.

    Second easiest way would be a front cut.

    Though you should basically follow this guildline if you dont want to ruin the vehicle in tthe pulling process.

    1: Disconnect every wire and hose labeling them with tape
    2. Drain Engine Oil
    3. Drain Coolant And Disconnect Radiator and Remove radiator / cooling fans
    4. Remove Turbo and Turbo Manifold
    5. Disconnect CV Axels and Drive Shaft for AWD -or- remove tranny/t-case
    6. Unbolt Engine Mounts and Tranny Mounts.
    7. Do A final check to make sure that nothing is still connected to the engine.
    8. Lift out of car with hoist.
    #19
  21. combatmedic

    combatmedic Proven Member

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    Fountain, Colorado

    The video is easy???
    Front cut??
    #20
  22. Tanro

    Tanro Proven Member

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    Madison, Alabama
    That video is of what they use on scrap metal yards to rip engines out of cars so the car can be crushed and then chopped up.

    Front cut is what they do on junkyards when every thing from the engine bay back is shot hell. THe cut the front of the car off. Right at the fire wall usually.
    #21
  23. combatmedic

    combatmedic Proven Member

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    Fountain, Colorado
    gotcha
    #22
  24. snakeyes711

    snakeyes711 Proven Member

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    W-S, North_Carolina
    ROFLROFLROFLLOLLOL:sneaky::DROFL
    #23
  25. Venom13132

    Venom13132 Proven Member

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    Indianapolis, Indiana
    you dont need to remove the turbo at all, dont need to drain the oil either but I would if I were you. I would pull the radiator for sure
    #24
  26. tallywacker

    tallywacker Proven Member

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    Mercersburg, Pennsylvania
    How could you dislike going to work with that job?
    #25

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