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Posted by combatmedic, Mar 11, 2010
Maintenance & Repairs - Oil choices, timing belt, setting timing, CV boot replacement, alternator servicing, fuse/relay checks, and other basic maintenance, repair and diagnosis discussions.
Go buy a Chilton or Haynes manual.
To answer your question as vaguely as you asked it, just disconnect everything attached to the motor and you'll be fine.
When I was going to pull my engine, I was told to pull the engine and tranny as one unit. The biggest advantage to this is that you can then clean the whole engine compartment and fix/paint any rust.
As far as level of difficulty, it would probably depend on your shop and equipment available. The engine compartment is small, the engine can be pulled by itself but it is a tight fit. Pulling the engine and tranny together there is a lot more disassembly required. Again it gives you a chance clean stuff up.
get a manual and do some searches, I'm sure this has been covered before...
YouTube - SAS Scorpion Engine Puller For Salvage Yards & Car Crushers
Harbor Freight for like 60 bucks i think
I just have a few questions:
1. Im a little confused with step 4 when he talks about the AC
2. Does the 2g intake manifold bolt up to the 1g head because number 5 confuses me
3. I am confused with 14 and 15.
Thanks for your help I really want to get this project done.
BWA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA!!!!HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA!!!!
That just made my day hahahahahha
Clarify on the numbes or just copy and paste the directions on here that you are questioning.
A 2g IM will not bolt up to the 1g head. Ports are completly different on both. You can however use a 2g head on a 1g block after drilling out the head stud holes on the head by 1mm and doing the oil port mod on the bottom left hole (#4 cylinder position). This will give you a higher velocity intake charge and can use the Evo3/RVR IM. Great combination.
I think i'll use the 'Scorpion' for my next swap.
Put the alignment tool inside the clutch. Put the same end inside the motor. It should suspend itself. Put the PP on the alignment tool from the other end. Turn the PP until the bolt holes line up. Torque the bolts down and then slide out the alignment tool
Second easiest way would be a front cut.
Though you should basically follow this guildline if you dont want to ruin the vehicle in tthe pulling process.
1: Disconnect every wire and hose labeling them with tape
2. Drain Engine Oil
3. Drain Coolant And Disconnect Radiator and Remove radiator / cooling fans
4. Remove Turbo and Turbo Manifold
5. Disconnect CV Axels and Drive Shaft for AWD -or- remove tranny/t-case
6. Unbolt Engine Mounts and Tranny Mounts.
7. Do A final check to make sure that nothing is still connected to the engine.
8. Lift out of car with hoist.
The video is easy???
Front cut is what they do on junkyards when every thing from the engine bay back is shot hell. THe cut the front of the car off. Right at the fire wall usually.
you dont need to remove the turbo at all, dont need to drain the oil either but I would if I were you. I would pull the radiator for sure
How could you dislike going to work with that job?