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Posted by TSi-Rocket, Feb 28, 2012
Maintenance & Repairs - Oil choices, timing belt, setting timing, CV boot replacement, alternator servicing, fuse/relay checks, and other basic maintenance, repair and diagnosis discussions.
1. Check your Carrier Bearing mounting bolts. I bet one or two are loose (I had two loose).
2. Check your lobro for noise. They develop a "sweet spot", and a loose driveshaft will pull it out of that.
Once you tighten the mount bolts, the noise/vibration should disappear after a mile or two of driving.
my point is if i was a post nut Id be able to post somewhere besides in the newbie forum which is lame and until I tear into everything I cant say everyones advice isnt helping... im pretty sure this is something different.I was leaning on the cv's but im not getting the usual vibration when turning a corner and its periodic. If the cv is bad its a problem new to me. Well I would tear into the car like I usually do... but instead of working on my dsm and trying to find a job... im working 12hrs all week, so i dont have a lot of time. The brake could be hanging up but the car doesnt pull to the right nor would a hung up brake cause the whining or the shaking . Unless ive completely overlooked something... this is a question for advanced tech straight up.
Note. the rear shocks are bad, my only thought is that a combination of the problems you have all listed (althought parts dont seem bad they are not new), plus the shocks have created a harmonic note, heck even the ecu could be picking up knock from the prothane motor mounts and adding to the problem? Ive thought about this extensively... and the ecu was recapped 2years ago, and ive put a know good ecu in the car to see if this was the problem.....
i experienced some pretty uncomfortable driving when i broke the spider gears in my first center differential. i also purchased a trans that claimed to have a welded center diff, turned out to be a welded viscous coupling, which later destroyed the spider gears in the non-welded center differential, along with the crown shaft that drives the front differential (resulted in RWD only)
could also be a worn out front differential, i've yet to break one of those though
the hot transmission and the whine with shaking kind of makes me think about a viscous coupling issue. i mean, it acts like a clutch in a way, right?
drain some transmission oil, inspect for signs of metal, and the silver goo, which would point towards a viscous issue. i suppose it could have a problem without leaking as well. if you have the time, i would also remove the center diff with the transmission still in the car, just to inspect and verify everything is okay. take a close look at the washers for the top and bottom gears.
i would also recommend greasing the lobro joint for good measure if it looks alright upon inspection.
for the $50, a set of solid driveshaft bushings is a nice upgrade over the typically worn out stock ones. plus peace of mind knowing that the carrier bearings aren't going to move anywhere.
after all this vibration you speak of, it wouldn't hurt to check all your transmission to block bolts, and transfer case bolts as well.
right now I have the car tore apart for manifold/turbo porting and machining a 34mm wastegate flapper out of 304ss and trying out an 02 dump although I will prob take it back off after I mega port a stock o2 housing.
I've replaced dam near everything on the car and still have issues. The car will vibrate under boost (light to heavy), sometimes it's pretty bad, sometimes not. What's really driving me insane is that when I jack up the back of the car to fix something or change oil, etc., it seems to reset the issue. When I return the car to the ground and drive it a few days, it doesn't vibrate, even under WOT. After about 200 miles LIKE CLOCKWORK it begins to vibrate more and more until it is nearly undrivable again. Just this morning on my way to work, it was smooth to start, got progressively worse, and finally near the end of my 15 mile commute to work, it was vibrating really bad. Seems to be worse going up hill too.
I've been through two driveshafts, both had brand new carrier bearings, and the one I am using now has brand new Mitsubishi Ujoints and new yoke as well. I just replaced the rear subframe bushings (from BoostX), rear shocks, oils, subframe bushings, etc. Still have issues and I'm going crazy. I've been chasing this issue for over 2 years.
The car has about 140k on the body, 15k on a rebuild stock motor. Transmission shifts like butter, but makes a chattery noise in neutral and whines a little bit in 1st and 2nd gear. 2nd gear gets the most vibration under throttle. Clutch is stock.
ECU is brand new factory Mitsubishi. Car is lightly modded but nothing major.
I found the front passenger wheel bearing was bad, but even after changing it, like you experienced, the passenger front tire does not move much/at all when the car is on jackstands. I had the car up to 90mph on jackstands and the front passenger tire wasn't moving much, just jerking around. I have brand new brake calipers and rotors on all four wheels. The rims and tires are brand new as well and were just balanced to spec. The car just underwent a full 4 wheel alignment due to the rear subframe work. I'm still having the SAME vibration issues.
The next thing I am going to do is tear down the lobro again and see if there's something wrong with it. I am not sure if it is supposed to do this, but when I grab both sides of the lobro, it makes a click sound--only one click per rotation. Almost like it's loose. It was recently rebuilt by a driveshaft shop, but I am concerned that this may be an issue. Does anyone have any input on this? The lobro is solid and moves freely in and out, it just clicks when rotated back and forth along the shaft.
Its not a surprise to me after going thru this car I found many mistakes from the previous owner. Thanks everyone for your help.