Does anyone have the Magnus intake manifold heat barrier gasket installed??

[robs90tsi]

I'm just wondering if anyone has it, couldnt find a thread on it, and how it performs as far as actually lowering the intake manifold temps. Slowboy says they sell like crazy, but I dont know of anyone who has one, it looks almost like a piece of plastic, someones gotta have it installed, let me know how it performs, and if it doesnt leak or what not. Because hey, for $30, thats real cheap for a little extra HP.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

I would stick with the 2g gasket. Thats what you have correct??? They are different part # for each 90-94/95-99/VIII-IX (magnus). Not sure about the EVOIII. I will research a little more. OEM gaskets fit 90-99.

The EVO III Manifold bolts up to the 2g head. My choices are either the stock 2g gasket or an aftermarket gasket that's made to fit the 2g.

Are you saying that the Magnus gasket is ONLY for the Magnus SMIM and NOT an OEM style mani??

 

[taylorspl]

I have the Hondata one on my car. I feel that it made a difference although I don't have any pre and post logs to compare but it was worth the money and time to install it.

 

[Black95awd]

The EVO III Manifold bolts up to the 2g head. My choices are either the stock 2g gasket or an aftermarket gasket that's made to fit the 2g.

Are you saying that the Magnus gasket is ONLY for the Magnus SMIM??

No it will work with any Intake manfold you put on your DSM

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

No it will work with any Intake manfold you put on your DSM

Cool! So, for the money it would be better to get the Magnus gasket then? I'm guessing that performance wise any brand name PE spacer/gasket would be equal. So, assuming that's true, getting the cheaper one would make the most sense.

 

[Black95awd]

Cool! So, for the money it would be better to get the Magnus gasket then? I'm guessing that performance wise any brand name PE spacer/gasket would be equal. So, assuming that's true, getting the cheaper one would make the most sense.

IMO yes. as long as it seals and holds the head you are golden

 

[pickens]

if I got one for free and the manifold was already off my car for a different reason, then I would install one, other than that its not worth it.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

How much does a new OEM gasket cost?

 

[sd_ff22]

There was another thread on here that I remember reading doing a test on the materials in the hondata and the magnus heat shield spacers.
From what I remember, they are made of different materials and the hondata out performed the magnus by a lot.
The testing was done using some kind of heat measurement through the material and gaging what got through.
Can't be sure, but I think the magnus is phenolic resin and the hondata is a softer heat blocking plastic?

Hope this helps, but for what its worth I bought the hondata heat shield after reading that article.

-Dan

 

[Simpleman1]

I got one from Magnus about couple of years ago when I was rebuilding my 1G. I can't really tell if it made the intake manifold few degrees cooler than the cylinder head. I still have it in my car. Maybe someday I'll use a temperature probe and try measuring the difference of the temperature between the IM and the CH.

 

[Supa Dexta]

So I only noticed one small comment, but this is supposed to be just put on and bolted down? No sealant of any sort needed?

 

[99gst_racer]

So I only noticed one small comment, but this is supposed to be just put on and bolted down? No sealant of any sort needed?

Yes, that is correct.

 

[bling5tatus]

I have heard bad things about those.... I will not go into too much detail, but when they melt under high load it causes your motor to go way lean and die.

 

[dsm-onster]

No, that would cause the other way around. If the spacer melted it would cause a giant boost leak and your engine would run VERY rich (like any other boost leak). . .

 

[sd_ff22]

I've had my Hondata heatshield installed and running for 3 months. no boost leaks at all and they are designed to with stand heat(no the don't melt under any condition that your car can put out. unless you installed it on you exhaust manifold )

I used permatex spray gasket to seal it. I've heard it works fine with out but I would rather be safe and not have to take the manifold off twice.

Please note that after installation and with coolant lines still connected to the throttle body, I could drive for a few hours, pop the hood, and full hand grab the intake manifold.
great product!

 

[DSMunknown]

Dan, were you able to torque down the four lower bolts on the E3 IM to factory spec? I haven't been.

 

[eboy0]

I just recently pulled my intake off, after about 2000 miles on the magnus gasket and it looks a bit warmed, all the runners seem to be disformed... don't know whether I should reuse it or not.

 

[sd_ff22]

Anthony-

No I could not reach those bolts with a torque wrench on the new evo manifold, but I got them as tight as I could. all others are tourqed.

eboy0-

Anthony and I have the hondata heatshield which is a different material than the magnus spacer. magnus uses a phenolic resin. hondata uses some sort of delrin/plastic material. I think some one did a test and said that the phenolic resin didn't stop much of anything...

but, Like I said, Mine Is doing a damn good job of stopping conducted heat.

 

[garage16]

I'm running one and I love it. plus I don't have to keep buying OEM gaskets, I just reuse the Magnus one

and also Ill be running the same type for a throttle body to keep manifold a bit cooler

 

[pboglio]

I'm running the Outlaw Engineering Phenolic spacer kit. Its a 1/4" thick phenolic material with a spacer for the intake manifold, throttlebody, and FIAV. I run the water lines thru the throttlebody and the manifold stays at about body temperature. I use 2 factory intake manifold gaskets installed dry, which seals perfectly. I had a "hondata" in my hands and decided I preferred a real phenolic material that was 2x thicker to boot.

 

[Scott Cooper]

sorry to bump an old thread but would running this as well as a thermal throttle body gasket yield some good reults as it eliminates heat coming from the throttle body to the im as well? (throttle body being warmed due to the coolant lines being connected)

 

[Tanro]

Just delete the throttle body lines...

 

[Scott Cooper]

What does deleting the lines do? Other than the obvious of course. The throttle body wouldn't become too hot? Why are they there then if the temps wouldn't climb too high?

And would deleting the lines on the tb and also utilizing both thermal gaskets be of any sort of benefit?

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

They are there for the thermal valve in the throttle body which you will find behind the freeze plug. If you delete the coolant lines you must also remove the freeze plugged and screw the FIAV valve all the way down until it stops. If you do not do this you will not get a proper idle as it will be open most of the time.

Also if you use a heat barrier gasket DO NOT use copper spray. That partially defeats the purpose of the heat barrier as the copper spray is meant to conduct heat. If anything use only a thin layer of black silicone. If you delete the coolant lines you do not need a throttle body heat barrier.

 

[Misterflipster]

They are there for the thermal valve in the throttle body which you will find behind the freeze plug. If you delete the coolant lines you must also remove the freeze plugged and screw the FIAV valve all the way down until it stops. If you do not do this you will not get a proper idle as it will be open most of the time.

Also if you use a heat barrier gasket DO NOT use copper spray. That partially defeats the purpose of the heat barrier as the copper spray is meant to conduct heat. If anything use only a thin layer of black silicone. If you delete the coolant lines you do not need a throttle body heat barrier.

Hate to bring back a thread but i have a question regarding that thermal valve....so im at a tuner shop and they are saying my thermal valve is the reason for incorrect idle.....my question is...would the thermal valve also have anything to do with my biggest issue/symptom?(the car will run, get warm and once its warm it wont turn back on, it'll crank no start. Once its cool again she fires right up)

 

[Vegas Smith]

Hate to bring back a thread but i have a question regarding that thermal valve....so im at a tuner shop and they are saying my thermal valve is the reason for incorrect idle.....my question is...would the thermal valve also have anything to do with my biggest issue/symptom?(the car will run, get warm and once its warm it wont turn back on, it'll crank no start. Once its cool again she fires right up)

I think they're referring to the FIAV and no, it wouldn't cause a no-start. That sounds like an overheating PTU or fuel pressure issue?