different t28 turbos?

[ofgofg]

Im looking to buy a t28 for my 95 tsi awd. Its a bit confusing. As far as I can tell, there is a 1200+ $$ fp big t28 and then there is a 900+$$ garrett t28 for dsm. Whats the difference? Does one make more power than the other? Does one spool quicker? Does one hold boost better? Also, is it a good idea to get a 17 psi actuator? I think the garrett has either 8 or 10 psi from stock. Car is going to be fairly mild. Not looking to break anything, so not tuning for max performance. Quick spool, and improvement over stock are the goals.

 

[Latch]

Adjustable should be fine.

You will love this turbo !

 

[JusMX141]

It may already have a higher-psi actuator installed even if it's not adjustable. The only way to know for sure what it's capable of is to get it on the car and just do a base pressure pull, no boost controller of any kind installed (line run directly from the compressor cover to the actuator).

 

[Travisgsx96]

For 600 bucks damn good deal

 

[mchustle]

Wow what a deal. I use to love blowing air through the manifold flange of a spare 14b I had, the blower I had you could adjust pressure from how far back you pulled it, so I would start out low pressure and go up like it was building boost . Yea I have no life but it sounded awesome .

 

[GoCanes777]

You can find a s16g in the classifeds for cheap i got mine for 100$ cause someone thought it was ebay...Horsepower is like crack once you get it you want nothing but more! Quick spool and you have room to grow if you ever want to move up from your personal goals.

 

[gprix1]

OK, so here's a deal that will break some hearts. A guy was recently selling a zero shaft play, T25 in the forum classifieds for $100 shipped. Looking closely you could see in the pic that the compressor inlet was clearly bored out and had to be a T28. Now, I don't even need this thing yet because we're not starting my girlfriends '95 GSX build until the fall and I'm short on money but I just have to get it.
So it arrives and the turbo is perfect. What's more, it has the higher flowing 9-blade turbine which you couldn't see in the pic (and I didn't want to even ask and raise suspicion), then I see it, the FP stamp on the flange. I couldn't believe it, I just picked up a perfect FP Big28 for $100 shipped.. SWEET! I almost felt bad for the guy but he was just selling parts off of some car he bought and I've gotten my fair share of bad deals so it's nice to get a win sometimes.

 

[MHuddy1213]

ill buy it off you for 200 gprix1 youll make 100

 

[ofgofg]

No risk, no reward! That was a good catch. So far I like the way my t28 feels. Today I get to wring it out a bit more.

 

[re-rx7]

I love mine. Conservative tune made 255 whp on a mustang dyno.

 

[ofgofg]

I ran mine around today and must admit to being a bit confused. It pulls hard in first and second gear. However, if I am just cruising, and then nail the throttle, it seems to lag pretty hard, yet the car is speeding up pretty well. Just seems like a bit more lag. Not quite what I was expecting. I figured it would spool as quickly as stock t25, yet pull harder throughout. Its definitely spooling slower, and has more of a "hit" than the t25 once it gets up to speed. Does this seem normal?

O/K, so i checked for vacuum leaks, non at idle anyway. Still have not done a boost leak test. I did stick my hand down around the o2 housing and manifold flange to see if I could feel a "pre turbine" leak. None detected by that method. Wastegate arm is tight, no shims used under the bracket.

So, I undid the stock boost control plumbing, and hooked up a hallman controller, turned just about 1/10 of a turn open. Big improvement in perceived spooling and overall pull.

Now today Im going to try and find a proper boost gauge so I can see where its at, and get it dialed in safely

 

[gprix1]

Now today Im going to try and find a proper boost gauge so I can see where its at, and get it dialed in safely

^^^ You absolutely need to get a boost gauge if you are starting to play around with changing your boost levels.


I've ran T28's for years and yes, they are a tiny bit slower in spool than a T25; probably around 350 rpm's later I would guess. So yes, there is a slight difference in spool but the powerband is much wider and stronger than the T25 for sure. Definately worth it, even for auto-x racing.
For sure do a boost leak test if you feel like yours is laggy. Also, they do work very well with the ball\spring type boost controllers so you are going the right direction there. Just be careful and adjust them in small amounts as it's easy to over-shoot your psi target with a MBC.

 

[ofgofg]

I like those hood vents. What hood is that?

 

[gprix1]

It's the VIS Evo hood. Works good for venting radiator and turbo heat.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Eclipse-95-99-Mitsubishi-EVO-VIS-Carbon-Fiber-Hood-/250858411542?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AEclipse&hash=item3a68539616&vxp=mtr

 

[Latch]

That turbo def wake up around 18 - 20 psi.

The boost gauge is a must.

 

[ofgofg]

I had the hallman dialed all the way open to allow lowest boost. It still pulled so hard that without a boost gauge,, I was worried. So,, for now, its running just manifold pressure. Line goes strait from the compressor to the waste gate actuator. No more hallman, and no more solenoid leak system. Response is better this way than with the solenoid leak in place. Dont know why,, but it just seems better.

 

[gprix1]

I had the hallman dialed all the way open to allow lowest boost. It still pulled so hard that without a boost gauge,, I was worried. So,, for now, its running just manifold pressure. Line goes strait from the compressor to the waste gate actuator. No more hallman, and no more solenoid leak system. Response is better this way than with the solenoid leak in place. Dont know why,, but it just seems better.

I'm curious if the actuator you have might be a higher psi one than stock. Do you have a compressor you can test it with?
You probably feel the response a little slower because the WG will start to crack open a little earlier without a boost controller to hide the pressure from the actuator. I do however, think you've made the best choice just running actuator straight from the compressor. Until you have a boost gauge, you really have no idea what boost you are running with this thing.

 

[ofgofg]

Im thinking the actuator is a higher psi than the stock t25 had. Reason being, is that it will peg the stock boost gauge all the way up at higher throttle and under load. The older t25 with stock plumbing would not peg out the stock boost gauge. I know that gauge is a guestimate, but its a relative comparison.

 

[pj91gsx]

Anyone know where i can get the parts to build a t28, or what the difference is in the T28s off the jdm 240sx and the dsm t28s?

 

[ofgofg]

The dsm t28 has the compressor inlet and outlets positioned specifically for 2g dsm application. The dsm versions compressor outlet is pointed sideways like a t25 and in the same direction as the compressor inlet.

The jdm nissan t28 has its compressor outlet pointed like a universal application turbo, 90 degrees from the inlet. So, the jdm t28 inlet is facing sideways, and the outlet is facing forward.

I dont know if the exhaust flange pattern is different. Both being garrett, I would think they are the same.