2G Dies With Maf Plugged In

[smoked28]

Hi, guys!

After a few years of being out of the DSM scene, I finally picked up a 2G TSI AWD yesterday as a project. The guy I got it from had 3 DSM's. He said the MAF on the one he was selling was bad, so he unplugged it and hooked his DSM Link up to the car. It started right up and idled okay (very rich because it wasn't tuned to this car). However, as soon as he would plug in the MAF the car would die right away. The car has an HX35 turbo and 1200 cc injectors, so I know I'll need a way to tune it. The car has a black box ECU, so I was going to go about tuning with ECUFlash. He gave me literally 6 MAF's that he said were all bad. He told me I would need to get a new 2g MAF, hook up the black box ECU and get it tuned for it to start and run correctly. Does anyone have an opinion on this before I buy a new MAF? It just seems hard to believe that all 6 of these MAF's are bad. Could there be something else that is likely prohibiting it from starting? It just turns over, never really tries to start. Any help is much appreciated.

A pic of the engine bay for reference.

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[chrysler kid]

Ok looks like there's not many contributers any more

Yes you can run the wideband in the front oxygen sensor bung in the 02 housing. You will click into link and set up narrow band simulation, you will also need to wire the wideband sensor to ECU to take the best logs in dsmlink. (I'm pretty sure that's how they are doing remote tuning now, the ecmlink forums can help you with troubles when you post logs)

I would change all trans fluid and transfer case fluid first. Do a full drain and see if you get any debris out and what the old fluid looks like from the trans.

Speed density is just changing the map sensor to a GM map sensor, adding in a GM intake air temp sensor. Venting the blow off valve isn't effecient but it's not the end of the world. The car may act like it wants to stall between shifts.

So what are it's problems right now?

Are you on stock fuel injectors ? Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge? Do you have a fuel pressure regulator that shows pressure?

 

[smoked28]

I would change all trans fluid and transfer case fluid first. Do a full drain and see if you get any debris out and what the old fluid looks like from the trans.

I will do a fluid drain as soon as I get time. Any recommendation on trans fluid? I didn't want to go too thin and mask the issue.

So what are it's problems right now?

The problems right now are (in order of severity):

1. The grind -- That's stressing me out and making me contemplate how deep I want to go into this car
2. Running like sh** -- This, I know, is because I haven't done anything in ECMLink to tune yet other than to get the car started. I need to do more research and watch more of the demos on ECMTuning to get more familiar with what I'm looking at.
3. Wideband -- Have to get the sensor (or wait for the previous owner to drop off the one that was supposed to already be installed in the car when I bought it).
4. Clacking sound -- The little bit I've had it on the road, it's been pulling hard to the right and I hear almost like a knocking sound going down the road. Sounds like running over reflectors, only a little quieter. I filled all the tires with equal pressure and it still happens.

Until I figure out what I'm going to do with the grinding issue, I'm not going to put anymore time and money into the car. I believe Alex's suggestion confirmed it is a synchro issue, so I have reached out to a few shops (Jack's, TRE, etc.) to get some more info on rebuild/self-rebuilt kit prices.

Are you on stock fuel injectors ? Do you have an aftermarket boost gauge? Do you have a fuel pressure regulator that shows pressure?

I have the DW 1200's back in now. Yes, I do have an aftermarket boost gauge, although I'm not sure if it's being inputted into ECMLink. Yes, I do have a fuel pressure regulator.

I made a video of what the car is doing at idle right now. I also took a log at idle with whatever values ECMLink was capturing out of the box. I put them in my build journal:

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/my-first-project-car-95-eagle-talon-tsi-awd.517975/#post-153691820

 

[chrysler kid]

Uhh pulling hard right and knocking is an issue. Put the car up on stands and inspect the axles and transfer case. I mean your transmission fluid could be empty for all you know

Grinding can be anything from cables not being aligned, to the trans needing a rebuild.


80w90 is what my gst takes

 

[boostdawd]

Redline mt90 is what I run for transfluid. I had the issue of the car pulling to thr right as well and it was due to the transmission failing. The center diff got real messed up probably because the trans fluid leaked out without me knowing.

Not saying thats your issue but something to look at. Don't get discouraged. These things are a blast to drive when running right.

I have been logging the aem wideband fine and is pretty accurate. I did have to select linear wideband and select my own inputs as the one in ecmlink dropdown was not spot on.

 

[steve]

I currently have Redline MT90 in mine but it's been awhile.

We used to use a mix of MT90 and MTL but Redline released MT85 not too long ago and I'd use that instead going forward.

The best fluid is likely the factory fill for the EVO but it was/is priced like it had gold in it.

When my car was new the dealership used to have an friction modifier additive they would add with the factory trans fluid.

 

[smoked28]

Redline mt90 is what I run for transfluid. I had the issue of the car pulling to thr right as well and it was due to the transmission failing. The center diff got real messed up probably because the trans fluid leaked out without me knowing.

Not saying thats your issue but something to look at.

Thanks for the info, man! Yeah I hope I don't have the same issue

 

[smoked28]

I currently have Redline MT90 in mine but it's been awhile.

We used to use a mix of MT90 and MTL but Redline released MT85 not too long ago and I'd use that instead going forward.

The best fluid is likely the factory fill for the EVO but it was/is priced like it had gold in it.

When my car was new the dealership used to have an friction modifier additive they would add with the factory trans fluid.

Amazon was the only place i could find the RedLine, so I just ordered a gallon of the MT-90 and some Lightweight Shockproof.

 

[chrysler kid]

My car also had issues making a rattle under slight Accel, and even an axle leak. The output shaft had become misaligned and was causing the passengers side axle to sit further out of the case than it was suppose to.

I could look inside the axle housing in the trans and see the bearing was not aligned or centered in the transmission case

I could see a gap in the axle to the trans on the passengers side compared to the driver. A sign that my output shaft bearing had failed in the trans. My car would pop out of 4th and reverse

Any 80w90 is fine. Spending big bucks on a synthetic fluid is not needed or necessary. Factory owners manual does not call for expensive synthetic

 

[smoked28]

I got the RedLine MT-90 in and it feels a lot better, but definitely still grinds. The clutch feels like it's way too soft and develops a lot of "slack" at the top of the pedal after a few shifts. I also did another clutch drag test the correct way, with all 4 wheels off the ground:

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[chrysler kid]

What does the pivot point on the clutch fork look like?

For shits and giggles you should probably try bleeding the slave and master as well

I had to add a shim behind this fork because the original flywheel was used with a new clutch. This is a picture of the fork alignment before I added a shim without my foot on the master to build pressure

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