ECMlink Cruise timing for stock CR 1gs

Posted by 19gsx91, Aug 12, 2017

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  1. 19gsx91

    19gsx91 Proven Member

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    Hey guys, I've got a question..

    I've played with my timing table pretty extensively and have tried to get a little more responsiveness out of the car in the cruise area so it doesn't just lag out before the turbo spools.. When I add timing in it does feel a lot better in the cruise section but my temperature slowly goes up anytime I'm on the thruway or maintaining a high speed, talking to a few tuners they're theory is the higher timing is causing more heat in the cylinders - rising temps because I have a stock 25 year old radiator that can't keep up. Makes sense to me. - Thoughts?

    I am replacing the radiator as soon as it comes in, but wanted to get the ball rolling on this conversation, has anyone else added timing into their cruise range with any success on our cars? 1gs/2gs and if so, how much did you add?

    Thanks in advance guys, feedback is always appreciated.
     

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  2. RipperXX

    RipperXX Proven Member

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    Unsure, I know advancing or retarding ignition timing to much can cause higher temps. That said, when replace the radiator, trust me, make sure you re-install the factory ducting. If you don't have any, make some.
     
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  3. 19gsx91

    19gsx91 Proven Member

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    I have some custom sheet metal ducting made.. @ErikTande gave me some inspiration on that so I finally sucked it up and did it.

    When the ducting made no difference but dropping the cruise timing did I realized that I've been pushing the stock rad a bit too hard. A local tuner that has a turbo/supercharged 02 buick regal (12 second fwd buick!?) a 480whp mazdaspeed 6 and some other toys said he normally likes to see around high 30s to low 40s in degrees of timing for cruise but that seemed a bit high to me. He's not a DSM guy but he tunes a lot of local cars, I always appreciate the advice but I'd feel more comfortable hearing it from the community

    I'd take the advice I gave you earlier and just advance it until the car told me to stop, but cruise is tricky for me because my car has low rpm phantom knock and if I lower the RPM that the knock sensor reads my CEL light would be on/off constantly
     
    My DSM:
    1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

    Street Build

    292 whp   264 lb/ft
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  4. 19gsx91

    19gsx91 Proven Member

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    Update.. aftermarket radiator is in.. it's the ebay one @GST with PSI has suggested in some of his posts.. No real difference in my temperature issue :idontknow: I'm thinking of running up to STM and getting a factory 180* t-stat (195 is in now) and seeing what happens..


    Actually I did turn the cruise timing table back up a few degrees in some sections.. now it'll stay around 200-206 if I have the AC fan on all the time but if I turn it off and I'm cruising the temps slowly climb back up..

    This normal? I'm not running an AC condenser and that's where normally everyone runs into issues.
     
    My DSM:
    1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

    Street Build

    292 whp   264 lb/ft
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  5. GST with PSI

    GST with PSI DSM Wiseman

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    You're likely not getting enough airflow through the rad core if the fan is keeping it cool at speed. Either something is obstructing the inlet, or there's sh** on the back side hindering flow.

    How's your ducting configured?
     
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    1992 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4

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    1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4

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  6. 19gsx91

    19gsx91 Proven Member

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    Open out the bottom <-- thinking now that may the be the issue but I put some sheet metal ducting in that's keeping the air on top going from the IC through to the radiator. I may have to pull the bumper again and try to seal the sides and bottom a little better. I still want to put some kind of splitter on the front bumper to push some air up into the IC/rad
     
    My DSM:
    1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

    Street Build

    292 whp   264 lb/ft
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