I'm bored and have some extra time on my hands so I'm doing this write-up to clear some things up about "crankwalk". I don't have 1,000,000 posts on here but that doesn't mean I don't know anything, I just hardly ever get on here. This is for informational purposes and to assist in resolving our crankwalk issues. So please no arguing or bashing. The following information has been gathered from various sources, some of it being my own; in my own words. I feel that this thread is very informative and possibly deserves a spot in the tech article section if approved by a moderator. I hope this can shine some light on the 4g63 crankwalk situation. One more thing before I start; crankwalk can happen to ANY engine. Enjoy the thread.
First off, I'd like to point out some of the main causes of premature thrust bearing failure; aka "crankwalk".
1. Dirt and/or contamination
2. Abused/neglected engine
3. Poor crankshaft thrust surface finish
4. Misalignment
5. Overloading
6. Poor crankshaft surface geometry
7. Riding the clutch pedal
8. Improper clutch pedal adjustment
9. Bad torque converter
10. Assembly error(s)
11. Oil squirters
12. Inadequate engine/transmission grounding (really? just keep reading)
13. Oil starvation
14. Malfunctioning oil pressure relief valve
15. Malfunctioning oil pump
Cause:
When an engine's crankshaft has too much end-play there can be many causes to the problem. It seems that unfortuneately no one has pin-pointed the exact cause of crankwalk in 4g63's. So I'll get into each cause seperately.
Statistics
Dirt ........................................45.4%
Misassembly .......................... 12.8%
Misalignment .......................... 12.6%
Insufficient Lubrication..............11.4%
Overloading ............................8.1%
Corrosion ...............................3.7%
Improper Journal Finish ............3.2%
Other ......................................2.8%
Assembly:
The most basic cause for crankwalk in any motor is assembly. If you don't know how to assemble a motor, then don't. I don't care if it's a lawnmower engine. If the wrong bearings are used or if the thrust bearing isn't properly aligned or if clearences aren't in spec, etc, pre-mature thrust bearing failure may result without question.
Bearings:
Our main bearings. These are the bearings that sit in between the crankshaft/bottom of the block/main caps. The bearing that pre-maturely fails is the thrust bearing. Thrust bearings permit rotation between parts and are able to support high axial loads. Inadequate bearing surface could be a possible cause, but after doing hours and hours of research I doubt the thrust bearing being the culprit. There are a hand full of company's that make main bearings for these motors even in standard and under-sized choices. There is actually a modification that can be done to the thrust bearing to assist in pro-longed life. I talked to a few machinist's about it and they all agreed that it would be an excellent idea for me to do with my engine, and so I did. So far, so good. This leads into the explanation of the wiping action of the thrust bearing. If there is an insufficient oil film between the crank's thrust surface and the thrust bearing, the crank will literally 'wipe' away whatever oil there is, causing metal on metal contact; wearing the thrust bearing prematurely. There's a link at the bottom of thread that explains the modification to the thrust bearing.
Clutches/Standard Transmissions:
This is considered an external cause. In my opinion, having a 4g63 paired with a manual transmission increases the risk. (Like poking a pissed off bear with a stick). But I don't see this being the main cause. There have been many, many 4g63's that have crankwalked with automatic transmissions. But there has been a higher percent of these motors walking paired with manual transmissions. The clutch sits in between the transmission and engine. It's bolted to the flywheel, and the flywheel is bolted to the crankshaft. Each time the clutch pedal is pushed in, the throw-out bearing pushes an <x> amount of force on the pressure plate to dis-engage the clutch. This force applied to the pressure plate obviously puts an <x> amount of force on the crankshaft. Being that there was a major design flaw with these engines, that <x> amount of force does not help what-so-ever. This is why many DSM'ers dis-connect the clutch start switch so the vehicle can be started without the use of the clutch. The reason for this is because when starting the engine with the clutch pedal down, it's putting <x> amount of force on the crank, and since the engine was off, there has not been any oil flow or oil pressure at all, possibly resulting in excessive wear on the thrust bearing. There have been many cases of walking cranks using O.E.M clutches all the way up to heavy-duty clutches, such as ACT2100, ACT2600, Centerforce Dual Friction, single disc style, puck style, etc. If anyone's curious, I believe the O.E.M clutch puts 405lbs of pressure on the crank if I remember right. But enough about actual cutches for now. Let's look at the hydraulic system. This is a very critical area for our cars. To be honest, 99% of our cars that I have seen/worked on/drove have improperly adjusted clutch pedals or a hydraulic failure of some sort. Seems like everyone just thinks they can get under the dash and adjust the clutch pedal to however they want. This is wrong! First off, a hydraulic failure can hold the throw-out bearing forward, resulting in unnesessary pressure on the crankshaft. Secondly, a clutch that is improperly adjusted can "pump" itself upwards, making the clutch pedal rock hard. This also puts unnesessary pressure on the crankshaft.
Automatic Transmissions:
As far as automatic transmissions paired with the 4g63, possible causes are that the torque converter starts to fail and builds up pressure. This pressure causes the shell to balloon resulting in an outward pressure on the crankshaft. Another possibilty is spline lock. This happens when the stator support and the stator assembly of the transmission are worn or damaged during regular driving conditions. When the converter is engaged it moves forward to the stator support splines. If the splines lock in the forward position causing constant pressure on the crankshaft, the thrust bearing will pre-maturely fail due to the dissipation of lubrication.
Oil:
The stuff that keeps everything lubed and cool. There's many different brands and viscosity's. Everyone seems to have an oil brand and viscosity and won't think to ever use something different. That's fine, no problems there. As everyone probably knows, a full synthetic oil is recommended in our motors. But oil can have its weaknesses, too. Many people don't even bother changing oil at 3,000 mile intervals. Old oil constantly running in any motor can cause many problems. Crankwalk being one of them. What about people accidentally over-filling their engines with oil? A lot of people don't realize that having too much oil in a motor is not good. Some people might even think it's a good thing. It's not! Having too much oil in an engine is asking for problems. The crankshaft will literally 'whip' up the oil causing it to foam. When this happens, it can lead to overheated oil, oxidation, and loss in oil pressure. Frothy oil is much harder to pump. It'll starve the engine of oil and those critical lubrications spots (such as main bearings) won't get proper lubrication. Too much oil can actually cause oil leaks, and cause the car to smoke too. Keep in mind, too little oil is not good. Not enough oil will cause pre-mature wear on critical engine parts as well. Just keep the oil level at the max mark on the dipstick. If you are unsure about what brand, viscosity or amount of oil to use, consult your vehicles manual (this goes for everyone, not just DSMer's).
Oil Squirters:
The nice guys at Magnus Motorsports have a very detailed theory of the oil squirters being a possible cause for crankwalk. They've literally cut a 6-bolt and a 7-bolt block apart to get in-depth. The oil squirters are actually check valves. They have found that the 2g oil squirters can easily get clogged up with crud and hang open. If and when they hang open, you're losing oil pressure and flow. I'm not going to get too in-depth with this theory because Magnus has everything posted on their page about the oil squirters so give them a visit.
Bearing caps:
So this is one I've been really thinking about. I haven't read much of anything about this theory and I'm not sure if anyone else will agree with me. If anyone has ever taken a 6-bolt and a 7-bolt apart, you know the main caps are completely different. The 6-bolt has its own seperate caps, while the 7-bolt caps are in a cradle style (or bridge; bed plate, whatever you want to call it). It just spiked my curiosity that no one has considered fabricating seperate main caps for the 7-bolt. Most people think that having the cradle style is a stronger version. What if it isn't for these engines? I know that the cradle design is made to help prevent any twisting or moving of the main caps. But these cars have been on the road for years now and no one has 100% pin pointed the cause of crankwalk in these engines. What if the flaw lies somewhere in the cradle. Anyone who has built engines before knows that all bearing clearances must be within spec and that the thrust bearing must be algined. As far as thrust bearings, maybe these cradles hurt more than they help. This was just one of my thoughts and I figured it was worth throwing out there. Cradle style caps do make it a little more difficult to align the thrust bearing, also. If you're using the MBCAD kit, it's even harder.
Electrical Grounds:
Yep. I bet most of you didn't think electrical grounds for the engine were that important, right? Well it has been shown that poor engine grounding can actually cause a thrust bearing to prematurely fail. If there is too much current in the vehicles drive train, it must be corrected. In order to find this out get a digital volt meter. Disable the vehicle from actually starting, but will still be able to crank the starter. Ground the meter to the vehicles battery. Place the positive on the transmission. Have the starter cranking for at least 4 seconds. There should be no more than .01 volts. If the meter exceeds .01 volts, add or replace engine ground straps. (From the frame of the vehicle to the engine). It would also be a good idea to ground the transmission to the frame. Better grounding can also aid in better performance.
As for some of the things I brought up in here, I'll list accurate information on how to help prevent premature thrust bearing failure.
Proper Clutch Adjustment:
Service Specifications
Pedal height: 175-180mm (7.0-7.1in.)
Pedal clevis pin play: 1-3mm (.04-.12in.)
Pedal freeplay: 6-13mm (.24-.51in.)
Distance between the clutch pedal and the firewall when the clutch is disengaged: 70mm (2.76in.) or more.
Lubricants
Clutch fluid: Brake fluid DOT 3 or DOT 4
Push rod assembly: Rubber grease
Boot: Rubber grease
Release cylinder push rod: MITSUBISHI genuine grease Part No. 0101011 or equivalent
Clutch pedal shaft, bushings and end of the pedal: Brake grease SAE J310,NLGI No. 1
Clutch master cylinder push rod, clevis pin and washer: Brake grease SAE J310,NLGI No. 1
Clutch release cylinder clevis pin: Brake grease SAE J310,NLGI No. 1
Instructions
1. Turn up the carpet, etc. under the clutch pedal.
2. Measure the clutch pedal height as shown in following figure.
Clutch pedal height (A): 175-180mm (7.0-7.1in.)
3. If the pedal height is not within the standard value, loosen the lock nut and adjust the pedal height to standard value using the adjusting bolt (vehciles without auto-cruise control), or using the clutch pedal position switch or push rod (vehicles with auto-cruise control).
4. Measure the clutch pedal play.
Pedal play (play at the clevis pin) (B): 1-3mm (.04-.12in.)
5. If the clutch pedal play is outside of the standard value, adjust with the push rod.
Caution: Do not push in the master cylinder push rod at this time.
6. After completing the adjustments, confirm that the clutch pedal free play (measured at the face of the pedal pad) and the distance between the clutch pedal (the face of the pedal pad) and the firewall when the clutch is disengaged are within the standard value ranges.
Clutch pedal free play (including the clevis pin play) (C): 6-13mm (.24-.51in.)
Distance between the clutch pedal and the firewall when the clutch is disengaged (D): 70mm (2.76in.) or more.
7. If the clutch pedal free play and the distance between the clutch pedal and the firewall when the clutch is disengaged do not agree with the standard values, it is probably the result of either air in the hydraulic system or a faulty master cylinder or clutch. Bleed the air, or dis-assemble and inspect the master cylinder or clutch.
8. Turn back carpet, etc.
Thrust Bearing Alignment:
It is imperitive to align the thrust bearing when building an engine. If the thrust surfaces are not aligned, un-even wear and pre-mature failure may result. This is how I go about doing it.
1. Tighten the main cap bolts/studs to approximately 10 - 15 ft lbs to seat main bearings, then loosen.
2. Tap main thrust cap/bed plate to the rear of the engine (towards the transmission).
3. Tighten the main cap bolts/studs finger tight.
4. Using a pry bar, force the crankshaft towards the front of the engine (towards the timing belt; also see notes).
5. While holding the crankshaft in position, tighten the main cap bolts/studs to 10 - 15 ft lbs.
6. Complete tightening main cap bolts/studs to specifications, in proper sequence, in 2 or 3 steps.
Notes:
If the engine is already in the vehicle and you are replacing the main bearings, when you come to step 4 you do not have to use a pry bar. Have someone in the car and press the clutch in. This will thrust the crankshaft foreward in the engine, aligning the thrust bearing (assuming steps 2 and 3 were already done). Then complete steps 5 and 6 as stated above.
Engine Information:
Figured I'd put some quick specs on here.
Engine: 2.0L <4g63>
Number of Cylinders: 4
Displacement cc (cu.in.) : 1,997 (121.9)
Type: In-line; OHV; DOHC
Compression Ratio: 8.5:1
Cylinder Bore mm (in.): 85.0 (3.35)
Piston Stroke mm (in.): 88.0 (3.46)
Oil Pump Type: Involute Gear Type
Lubrication System: Pressure Feed, Full-flow Filtration
Oil Pressure (idle): 11.4psi or more
Crankshaft End Play mm (in.): 0.05 - 0.18 (.0020 - .0071)
Related Information:
Some other informative links (not necessarily DSM related).
Bearing Clearances
Thrust Bearing Alignment
Thrust Bearing Modification
Engine Bearing Fatigue Analysis Guide
Magnus Motorsports Crankwalk Theory
Let Me Google That For You!
<EDIT> 100th post
First off, I'd like to point out some of the main causes of premature thrust bearing failure; aka "crankwalk".
1. Dirt and/or contamination
2. Abused/neglected engine
3. Poor crankshaft thrust surface finish
4. Misalignment
5. Overloading
6. Poor crankshaft surface geometry
7. Riding the clutch pedal
8. Improper clutch pedal adjustment
9. Bad torque converter
10. Assembly error(s)
11. Oil squirters
12. Inadequate engine/transmission grounding (really? just keep reading)
13. Oil starvation
14. Malfunctioning oil pressure relief valve
15. Malfunctioning oil pump
Cause:
When an engine's crankshaft has too much end-play there can be many causes to the problem. It seems that unfortuneately no one has pin-pointed the exact cause of crankwalk in 4g63's. So I'll get into each cause seperately.
Statistics
Dirt ........................................45.4%
Misassembly .......................... 12.8%
Misalignment .......................... 12.6%
Insufficient Lubrication..............11.4%
Overloading ............................8.1%
Corrosion ...............................3.7%
Improper Journal Finish ............3.2%
Other ......................................2.8%
Assembly:
The most basic cause for crankwalk in any motor is assembly. If you don't know how to assemble a motor, then don't. I don't care if it's a lawnmower engine. If the wrong bearings are used or if the thrust bearing isn't properly aligned or if clearences aren't in spec, etc, pre-mature thrust bearing failure may result without question.
Bearings:
Our main bearings. These are the bearings that sit in between the crankshaft/bottom of the block/main caps. The bearing that pre-maturely fails is the thrust bearing. Thrust bearings permit rotation between parts and are able to support high axial loads. Inadequate bearing surface could be a possible cause, but after doing hours and hours of research I doubt the thrust bearing being the culprit. There are a hand full of company's that make main bearings for these motors even in standard and under-sized choices. There is actually a modification that can be done to the thrust bearing to assist in pro-longed life. I talked to a few machinist's about it and they all agreed that it would be an excellent idea for me to do with my engine, and so I did. So far, so good. This leads into the explanation of the wiping action of the thrust bearing. If there is an insufficient oil film between the crank's thrust surface and the thrust bearing, the crank will literally 'wipe' away whatever oil there is, causing metal on metal contact; wearing the thrust bearing prematurely. There's a link at the bottom of thread that explains the modification to the thrust bearing.
Clutches/Standard Transmissions:
This is considered an external cause. In my opinion, having a 4g63 paired with a manual transmission increases the risk. (Like poking a pissed off bear with a stick). But I don't see this being the main cause. There have been many, many 4g63's that have crankwalked with automatic transmissions. But there has been a higher percent of these motors walking paired with manual transmissions. The clutch sits in between the transmission and engine. It's bolted to the flywheel, and the flywheel is bolted to the crankshaft. Each time the clutch pedal is pushed in, the throw-out bearing pushes an <x> amount of force on the pressure plate to dis-engage the clutch. This force applied to the pressure plate obviously puts an <x> amount of force on the crankshaft. Being that there was a major design flaw with these engines, that <x> amount of force does not help what-so-ever. This is why many DSM'ers dis-connect the clutch start switch so the vehicle can be started without the use of the clutch. The reason for this is because when starting the engine with the clutch pedal down, it's putting <x> amount of force on the crank, and since the engine was off, there has not been any oil flow or oil pressure at all, possibly resulting in excessive wear on the thrust bearing. There have been many cases of walking cranks using O.E.M clutches all the way up to heavy-duty clutches, such as ACT2100, ACT2600, Centerforce Dual Friction, single disc style, puck style, etc. If anyone's curious, I believe the O.E.M clutch puts 405lbs of pressure on the crank if I remember right. But enough about actual cutches for now. Let's look at the hydraulic system. This is a very critical area for our cars. To be honest, 99% of our cars that I have seen/worked on/drove have improperly adjusted clutch pedals or a hydraulic failure of some sort. Seems like everyone just thinks they can get under the dash and adjust the clutch pedal to however they want. This is wrong! First off, a hydraulic failure can hold the throw-out bearing forward, resulting in unnesessary pressure on the crankshaft. Secondly, a clutch that is improperly adjusted can "pump" itself upwards, making the clutch pedal rock hard. This also puts unnesessary pressure on the crankshaft.
Automatic Transmissions:
As far as automatic transmissions paired with the 4g63, possible causes are that the torque converter starts to fail and builds up pressure. This pressure causes the shell to balloon resulting in an outward pressure on the crankshaft. Another possibilty is spline lock. This happens when the stator support and the stator assembly of the transmission are worn or damaged during regular driving conditions. When the converter is engaged it moves forward to the stator support splines. If the splines lock in the forward position causing constant pressure on the crankshaft, the thrust bearing will pre-maturely fail due to the dissipation of lubrication.
Oil:
The stuff that keeps everything lubed and cool. There's many different brands and viscosity's. Everyone seems to have an oil brand and viscosity and won't think to ever use something different. That's fine, no problems there. As everyone probably knows, a full synthetic oil is recommended in our motors. But oil can have its weaknesses, too. Many people don't even bother changing oil at 3,000 mile intervals. Old oil constantly running in any motor can cause many problems. Crankwalk being one of them. What about people accidentally over-filling their engines with oil? A lot of people don't realize that having too much oil in a motor is not good. Some people might even think it's a good thing. It's not! Having too much oil in an engine is asking for problems. The crankshaft will literally 'whip' up the oil causing it to foam. When this happens, it can lead to overheated oil, oxidation, and loss in oil pressure. Frothy oil is much harder to pump. It'll starve the engine of oil and those critical lubrications spots (such as main bearings) won't get proper lubrication. Too much oil can actually cause oil leaks, and cause the car to smoke too. Keep in mind, too little oil is not good. Not enough oil will cause pre-mature wear on critical engine parts as well. Just keep the oil level at the max mark on the dipstick. If you are unsure about what brand, viscosity or amount of oil to use, consult your vehicles manual (this goes for everyone, not just DSMer's).
Oil Squirters:
The nice guys at Magnus Motorsports have a very detailed theory of the oil squirters being a possible cause for crankwalk. They've literally cut a 6-bolt and a 7-bolt block apart to get in-depth. The oil squirters are actually check valves. They have found that the 2g oil squirters can easily get clogged up with crud and hang open. If and when they hang open, you're losing oil pressure and flow. I'm not going to get too in-depth with this theory because Magnus has everything posted on their page about the oil squirters so give them a visit.
Bearing caps:
So this is one I've been really thinking about. I haven't read much of anything about this theory and I'm not sure if anyone else will agree with me. If anyone has ever taken a 6-bolt and a 7-bolt apart, you know the main caps are completely different. The 6-bolt has its own seperate caps, while the 7-bolt caps are in a cradle style (or bridge; bed plate, whatever you want to call it). It just spiked my curiosity that no one has considered fabricating seperate main caps for the 7-bolt. Most people think that having the cradle style is a stronger version. What if it isn't for these engines? I know that the cradle design is made to help prevent any twisting or moving of the main caps. But these cars have been on the road for years now and no one has 100% pin pointed the cause of crankwalk in these engines. What if the flaw lies somewhere in the cradle. Anyone who has built engines before knows that all bearing clearances must be within spec and that the thrust bearing must be algined. As far as thrust bearings, maybe these cradles hurt more than they help. This was just one of my thoughts and I figured it was worth throwing out there. Cradle style caps do make it a little more difficult to align the thrust bearing, also. If you're using the MBCAD kit, it's even harder.
Electrical Grounds:
Yep. I bet most of you didn't think electrical grounds for the engine were that important, right? Well it has been shown that poor engine grounding can actually cause a thrust bearing to prematurely fail. If there is too much current in the vehicles drive train, it must be corrected. In order to find this out get a digital volt meter. Disable the vehicle from actually starting, but will still be able to crank the starter. Ground the meter to the vehicles battery. Place the positive on the transmission. Have the starter cranking for at least 4 seconds. There should be no more than .01 volts. If the meter exceeds .01 volts, add or replace engine ground straps. (From the frame of the vehicle to the engine). It would also be a good idea to ground the transmission to the frame. Better grounding can also aid in better performance.
As for some of the things I brought up in here, I'll list accurate information on how to help prevent premature thrust bearing failure.
Proper Clutch Adjustment:
Service Specifications
Pedal height: 175-180mm (7.0-7.1in.)
Pedal clevis pin play: 1-3mm (.04-.12in.)
Pedal freeplay: 6-13mm (.24-.51in.)
Distance between the clutch pedal and the firewall when the clutch is disengaged: 70mm (2.76in.) or more.
Lubricants
Clutch fluid: Brake fluid DOT 3 or DOT 4
Push rod assembly: Rubber grease
Boot: Rubber grease
Release cylinder push rod: MITSUBISHI genuine grease Part No. 0101011 or equivalent
Clutch pedal shaft, bushings and end of the pedal: Brake grease SAE J310,NLGI No. 1
Clutch master cylinder push rod, clevis pin and washer: Brake grease SAE J310,NLGI No. 1
Clutch release cylinder clevis pin: Brake grease SAE J310,NLGI No. 1
Instructions
1. Turn up the carpet, etc. under the clutch pedal.
2. Measure the clutch pedal height as shown in following figure.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Clutch pedal height (A): 175-180mm (7.0-7.1in.)
3. If the pedal height is not within the standard value, loosen the lock nut and adjust the pedal height to standard value using the adjusting bolt (vehciles without auto-cruise control), or using the clutch pedal position switch or push rod (vehicles with auto-cruise control).
4. Measure the clutch pedal play.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Pedal play (play at the clevis pin) (B): 1-3mm (.04-.12in.)
5. If the clutch pedal play is outside of the standard value, adjust with the push rod.
Caution: Do not push in the master cylinder push rod at this time.
6. After completing the adjustments, confirm that the clutch pedal free play (measured at the face of the pedal pad) and the distance between the clutch pedal (the face of the pedal pad) and the firewall when the clutch is disengaged are within the standard value ranges.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Clutch pedal free play (including the clevis pin play) (C): 6-13mm (.24-.51in.)
Distance between the clutch pedal and the firewall when the clutch is disengaged (D): 70mm (2.76in.) or more.
7. If the clutch pedal free play and the distance between the clutch pedal and the firewall when the clutch is disengaged do not agree with the standard values, it is probably the result of either air in the hydraulic system or a faulty master cylinder or clutch. Bleed the air, or dis-assemble and inspect the master cylinder or clutch.
8. Turn back carpet, etc.
Thrust Bearing Alignment:
It is imperitive to align the thrust bearing when building an engine. If the thrust surfaces are not aligned, un-even wear and pre-mature failure may result. This is how I go about doing it.
1. Tighten the main cap bolts/studs to approximately 10 - 15 ft lbs to seat main bearings, then loosen.
2. Tap main thrust cap/bed plate to the rear of the engine (towards the transmission).
3. Tighten the main cap bolts/studs finger tight.
4. Using a pry bar, force the crankshaft towards the front of the engine (towards the timing belt; also see notes).
5. While holding the crankshaft in position, tighten the main cap bolts/studs to 10 - 15 ft lbs.
6. Complete tightening main cap bolts/studs to specifications, in proper sequence, in 2 or 3 steps.
Notes:
If the engine is already in the vehicle and you are replacing the main bearings, when you come to step 4 you do not have to use a pry bar. Have someone in the car and press the clutch in. This will thrust the crankshaft foreward in the engine, aligning the thrust bearing (assuming steps 2 and 3 were already done). Then complete steps 5 and 6 as stated above.
Engine Information:
Figured I'd put some quick specs on here.
Engine: 2.0L <4g63>
Number of Cylinders: 4
Displacement cc (cu.in.) : 1,997 (121.9)
Type: In-line; OHV; DOHC
Compression Ratio: 8.5:1
Cylinder Bore mm (in.): 85.0 (3.35)
Piston Stroke mm (in.): 88.0 (3.46)
Oil Pump Type: Involute Gear Type
Lubrication System: Pressure Feed, Full-flow Filtration
Oil Pressure (idle): 11.4psi or more
Crankshaft End Play mm (in.): 0.05 - 0.18 (.0020 - .0071)
Related Information:
Some other informative links (not necessarily DSM related).
Bearing Clearances
Thrust Bearing Alignment
Thrust Bearing Modification
Engine Bearing Fatigue Analysis Guide
Magnus Motorsports Crankwalk Theory
Let Me Google That For You!
<EDIT> 100th post
