2G cold start low idle? no solutions!

[TheFlashDSM]

i have a daily 96 auto gsx fully stock i have dsmlink v3 full in the car now to check whats wrong and i cant figure it out

start the car cold and goes to 750rpm and wont raise idle to warm up, im in long island ny and its cold right now, and for the life of me with all the research i cant figure this out! issue with my 2g dsm all options have been checked,

CEL FOR P0400 AND P0443 cant clear no matter what i do

-has fuel odor
-hot start dips low then comes up to idle at 750rpm
ecu checked for being burnt out (good) replaced with 2 other good ones i have here for a 96 gsx auto
eletrical connection cleaned and check for voltage (good)
MDP replaced and little hole was cleaned
tps in perfect sync and was replaced 3 times
replaced evap check valve and black cone plunger thingy
replaced and check ohm of all sensors and solenoids.
replaced coolant temp sensor
replaced, isc
replaced fiav
cleaned carb
no boost leaks, all vacuum lines are correct! (checked multiple times)
replaced maf
replaced egr
replaced fuel press reg.

im out of ideas and here is my log of idle for like 20 min, i was mainly setting the biss screw to 30 and learned idle adj to 144, am i missing a step after this?

I HAVE ALL SENSORS LOGGED PLEASE VIEW AND HELP ME

 

[TheFlashDSM]

Yes

okay awesome ill do the test in the morning, and something else i noticed was when i take my fuel cap off there is a pressure release, not every time but sometimes, i think it might be contributing or i could just have a big ass vacuum leak somewhere.

 

[TheFlashDSM]

Yes

Edit: I take that back the dowel should be between 340 and 345 if you are looking for 30-40 deg btdc

well i did another BLT last night with the valves closed and i found some vacuum leaks at 20psi, but it was just vacuum lines that were to big for the nipples they where on, i fixed them but im still having my issue, also to see if the excess pressure in my fuel take was an issue i loosened the fuel cap last night, to let pressure out, the car sat over night and started like it should revved high on cold start and revved high on a hot start and back to idle. but 1 time i hot started it today the problem came back so i shut it off restarted it right away and it was gone. so tomorrow when its cold again if it revs high like it should i know my tank pressure is the problem. so i might just say screw it and pull the tank vent line off the canister and run a hose to the ground for the vent, and test me theory! but ill take a video right now and in hopes it revs high, (fingers crossed) BRB 10 min with video.

 

[Murdertalon]

1) if it was too much fuel you should see it in the fuel trims and o2 sensor. Do you? I don't

I didn't check his logs so your correct, I have had flooding issues that caused my car to run so rich at start up it would idle wonky, so rich actually it would flood out and I would have to unplug the fuel pump to get it to start - temp sensor was the cause.

2) A heavy oil will be harder for the oil pump to pump at low rpms causing longer starvation of the entire system.

Sure a heavy oil is (harder to push) however what oil does get pushed will be higher psi and the films in the bearings will create a better protecting lubrication with less flow, I'd rather have thicker oil lower flow but higher psi than thin oil period.

3) Wouldn't any parasitic drag cause it to do the same thing when the ecu was just reset?

Sure except the alternator, that's going to drag when it needs charging current.

4) vibration affecting engine rpm without the knock count seeing anything? unlikely

Ok

5) your belt squealed because it wasn't tensioned properly. Ask me how i know.

I have a tension tool, I tensioned it to spec and it still would squeal. I tensioned it slightly over spec still would squeal if it got wet, I tensioned it to spec with my fluidamper pulley and haven't had any squeal even getting wet. I can take a picture of the little clicker gauge if you'd like.. And if I can find it.

 

[TheFlashDSM]

1) if it was too much fuel you should see it in the fuel trims and o2 sensor. Do you? I don't

I didn't check his logs so your correct, I have had flooding issues that caused my car to run so rich at start up it would idle wonky, so rich actually it would flood out and I would have to unplug the fuel pump to get it to start - temp sensor was the cause.

2) A heavy oil will be harder for the oil pump to pump at low rpms causing longer starvation of the entire system.

Sure a heavy oil is (harder to push) however what oil does get pushed will be higher psi and the films in the bearings will create a better protecting lubrication with less flow, I'd rather have thicker oil lower flow but higher psi than thin oil period.

3) Wouldn't any parasitic drag cause it to do the same thing when the ecu was just reset?

Sure except the alternator, that's going to drag when it needs charging current.

4) vibration affecting engine rpm without the knock count seeing anything? unlikely

Ok

5) your belt squealed because it wasn't tensioned properly. Ask me how i know.

I have a tension tool, I tensioned it to spec and it still would squeal. I tensioned it slightly over spec still would squeal if it got wet, I tensioned it to spec with my fluidamper pulley and haven't had any squeal even getting wet. I can take a picture of the little clicker gauge if you'd like.. And if I can find it.

refer to OP, and logs.

 

[TheFlashDSM]

@doubleclutch

so heres the scoop -read carefully-

i tried something new today with the car, in link i actuated the fuel pump, this means the pump goes on during on but not start, i let the pump cycle for 10 seconds and it worked. SO I KNOW IF A FUEL PRESSURE PROBLEM, gotta drain and clean tank! and its been working all day, turn key sit for 5-10 seconds and bam high idle under start!!!! so heres the new problem which is part of this whole thing, i think its a vacuum leak related problem but correct me if im wrong, but now i can finally set my BISS screw properly because before it was all out of wack every start, but today it was steady, so i went to adjust it, turn the wait for isc to move and learned idle adj, as well, well i got close to the target of isc 30 and L.I.A. at 144, but then i went to turn the screw in a tad more and it was bottomed out and the idle was still a touch high. at isc 26 and L.I.A at 142!?

so BISS screw all the way in means what? no info and what to do when the BISS is screwed all the way in on any site! WHAT YOU THINK!

 

[doubleclutch]

well i did another BLT last night with the valves closed and i found some vacuum leaks at 20psi, but it was just vacuum lines that were to big for the nipples they where on, i fixed them but im still having my issue, also to see if the excess pressure in my fuel take was an issue i loosened the fuel cap last night, to let pressure out, the car sat over night and started like it should revved high on cold start and revved high on a hot start and back to idle. but 1 time i hot started it today the problem came back so i shut it off restarted it right away and it was gone. so tomorrow when its cold again if it revs high like it should i know my tank pressure is the problem. so i might just say screw it and pull the tank vent line off the canister and run a hose to the ground for the vent, and test me theory! but ill take a video right now and in hopes it revs high, (fingers crossed) BRB 10 min with video.

Yes, Finally something changing the response! You were going to brb with a video 24 hrs ago. What happened? Did you figure it out?

I am really trying to refraining from responding to MurderTalon.....

 

[doubleclutch]

The BISS all the way in means you most likely are pulling air in under vacuum. Vacuum leaks and boost leaks are different animals. You could possibly have one without the other. Sounds like you may have excessive pressure in your tank causing a very brief rich condition. I would sort that out first. See if you would have listened to the clean the tank and sort out the excessive pressure comments, you coulda been boosting care free by now!

finally some good news. Hopefully you are almost there.

 

[TheFlashDSM]

Yes, Finally something changing the response! You were going to brb with a video 24 hrs ago. What happened? Did you figure it out?

I am really trying to refraining from responding to MurderTalon.....

yea after i posted that i got really into thhe car tring to figure it out and forgot about the video ill havve one tm for sure.

The BISS all the way in means you most likely are pulling air in under vacuum. Vacuum leaks and boost leaks are different animals. You could possibly have one without the other. Sounds like you may have excessive pressure in your tank causing a very brief rich condition. I would sort that out first. See if you would have listened to the clean the tank and sort out the excessive pressure comments, you coulda been boosting care free by now!

finally some good news. Hopefully you are almost there.

and i bought a new exhaust manifold gasket and also an intake mani gasket as well im gonna try that out and see if it helps. but every time the car is running i hear the sound of whooshing air from the intake mani, but when i spray carb cleaner on the gasket there is no change in rpm, so i must have a leak somewhere that bad enough for the BISS to be all the way in!

 

[TheFlashDSM]

ill see if i can get a video of the sound from a manifold and hopefully you can hear it, and compare it to your car when running.

 

[TheFlashDSM]

@doubleclutch here is a video of fuel pump on during accessory, all day today started just fine, next tonight i will take a video of the intake manifold to see if you can hear what it sounds like.

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[TheFlashDSM]

@doubleclutch well i did the intake and exhaust gaskets and guess what!!!! im still idling to high. BISS ALL THE WAY IN STILL. but this time the isc is a little higher then before. before BISS in isc at 10. now BISS in isc at 20. but this is still not right please watch video and listen to the sound.... is there any other ports in the intake i should look for. because it sound like a hell of a leak inside its weird. but i cant find anything or any air coming out during blt. IM SO LOST!!!

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[TheFlashDSM]

well im gonna do a smoke test today with a vape set up that my buddy has, i gotta use a vape instead of a smoke machine, mainly because i dont have one.

 

[doubleclutch]

Yeah that definitely doesn't sound right. I expect the smoke to turn something up.

 

[TheFlashDSM]

Yeah that definitely doesn't sound right. I expect the smoke to turn something up.

trust me, me too, ill post what i can find soon.

 

[Mello]

Is that a fuel filter on your valve cover breather hose? I'd remove that if it was me. Nothing but a trouble maker for the crankcase & pressurization (which is bad).

 

[TheFlashDSM]

Is that a fuel filter on your valve cover breather hose? I'd remove that if it was me. Nothing but a trouble maker for the crankcase & pressurization (which is bad).

yea its a sealed fuel filter to catch access oil vapors for the crank case. when i blow through it, it feels like a hose, very open with free flowing air volume, i can see why it could hurt? but please explain in more detail of your trouble theory please, im curious!

 

[TheFlashDSM]

Yeah that definitely doesn't sound right. I expect the smoke to turn something up.

well the only thing that was leaking was the throttle plate seals, which i ordered, but i sealed the system at the elbow and blew the smoke into the nipple for the brake booster, heres what i found!

when the elbow wasn't sealed the smoke was coming out from the manifold through the elbow, is this normal? i didnt think so, so i screwed out the stopper screw and it lowered my idle a bit, (maybe my problem all along? the previous person messing with it?) im currently logging right now, just waiting for idle to settle as well as the isc.

pressuring the system, only leak i found was the throttle plate seals,

if the screw being backed out and new seals dont work im legit out of ideas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! but i will up date soon and the screw idea!

 

[doubleclutch]

Did you fix your evap problem yet?

 

[Mello]

No he's just ignore it. Needs to fix or take it out. Hose with filter will not or ever will be as unrestricted as hose alone. 4g63's need help with crank case pressures, even stock.

 

[TheFlashDSM]

well the screw idea helped!!!!! @doubleclutch my BISS screw is now 3/4 of a turn out!! i think the shaft seals will make it 1 full turn i still think its a little to screwed in though what do you think?

Did you fix your evap problem yet?

VVVVVV

No he's just ignore it. Needs to fix or take it out. Hose with filter will not or ever will be as unrestricted as hose alone. 4g63's need help with crank case pressures, even stock.

VVVVVVV


nope never fixed it yet, i got my idle problem almost solved then ill go back and fix the evap problem, so for now the vacuum line from the manifold is unhooked but everything else is hooked up, i either have another faulty solenoid or the check valve on the vent line to the canister is no good, for now im leaving the gas cap half loose to help the excess pressure in the tank.

ill fix the seals and see how my idle and BLT and vacuum test goes, then onto the evap problem, but i can feel it im so close!!!!!

 

[doubleclutch]

Vacuum line from manifold is unhooked? As in sucking air?

 

[TheFlashDSM]

Vacuum line from manifold is unhooked? As in sucking air?

its capped off, i aint that much of a noob .

 

[doubleclutch]

its capped off, i aint that much of a noob .

With some of the posts on here i've seen, you never know.

 

[TheFlashDSM]

With some of the posts on here i've seen, you never know.

anyway ive started the car a few times today since i did the butterfly screw late last night and i havnt had any idle issues, i just still gotta clean that dam tank, just i have no where to put 8 gallons of gas right now

 

[doubleclutch]

kill the weeds in your driveway.

I finally re-read your post when I wasn't tired and a few ...err sodas.. in. Sounds like the throttle plate stop screw to allow the throttle plate to close better. Yes, this should help. You should be able to back it out enough to ensure your plate closes completely. If you ISC and BISS get to wierd, screw it back in.