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Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement

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96GST96

10+ Year Contributor
49
1
Jun 15, 2011
Gainesville, Florida
My clutch slave cylinder busted, and I need to fix it tonight, only thing is, I don't know how to complete the job. I have unbolted the two long bolts so that now it hangs loosely, but is still attached by the metal wire (i have no idea wht it's real name is). My main question is, what do I need to remove? The bolt tightened around the metal wire threading into the cylinder? Or the huge 14mm bolt on the cylinder itself? I really need help with this so I can drive my car again. Thanks
 

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Make sure you bench bleed it before installation too, makes it much easier.
 
Remove bolt #1, be sure to get new copper gaskets when you install the new one.

So i would just use a basic 14mm socket and wrench? When I do this, Im scared that The line running from the cylinder into the tranny is going to bend or snap...anyway to deter that problem? Or is it just pull the hardest you can and hope it budges loose? Ive tried to loosen both, but neither is even wiggling loose. It's so much of a hassle, especially seeing as the engine and tranny is still mounted in the car.

Make sure you bench bleed it before installation too, makes it much easier.

how would you go about bleeding it? I need this done asap.
 
For the bench bleeding, leave the little red cap on the slave cylinder. Put a hole in it jut big enough to hold the red straw that comes with a WD-40 can or Brake Cleaner can. Then place the other end of the straw in a small cap of brake fluid. Pump the rod of the slave until all air is evacuated and the slave is full of fluid. Then you can install it. Gravity can take care of much of the rest of the air.

After that, get a friend to push in the clutch and bleed as you would brakes.
 
Getting new copper washers would be a great idea if the new slave doesn't come with a new banjo bolt and washers. That is all you will need to remove, to detach the slave from the line. Just put those 2 bolts you removed back into the slave by threading it through so it doesn't twist with you and just break the bolt loose.

As for bench bleeding, I personally never had an issue bleeding the clutch with an empty slave. One thing that will make your life some much easier is installing what's called "speed bleeders" onto the slave. It's just a regular bleeder nipple but has a check valve in it to prevent back flow (air). Crack it open as you would for a normal bleed and just pump the brakes away until you have all new fluid coming out and no air. They are great on brake calipers as well...most part stores should be able to get them.
 
It isn't necessary to "bench-bleed" a slave cylinder. It has no way of holding the fluid in itself without all the lines connected so any fell twist or turn will spill brake/hydraulic fluid all over.

When you undo that 14mm bolt, brake fluid will come pouring out so be ready to catch it. You'll need two new M10 crush washers. Brake line washers work beautifully, though depending on what kit you purchase to replace the unit, it may come with appropriate washers.

Here's a write-up done for a 1G, though the general process is the same for a 2G: Slave Cylinder for the Clutch

Edit: Too slow!
 
that 14mm bolt is a banjo bolt (has a hollow center and two holes on the side) that puts the clutch fluid into the cylinder, make sure not to overtighten it because it will snap easily. happened to me and no local place carried a replacement.
 
Yep, every one eles wrapped this one up... on a somewhat related note i think wilwood makes an aftermarket slave cyl that will fit. looks nice too.
 
Thanks fellas, finally got it off, what a PITA. Had a little bit of fluid come out, so I am guessing that's good. Now I just have to get the new part, and install it. What type of fluid do I need to buy and where do I refill it at? This is all new to me.
 
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