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1G Clutch Release Cylinder is bad (Pics)

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91Bomb

15+ Year Contributor
909
7
Jul 15, 2003
US, New_Jersey
I came up to a stop light yesterday and when pushing clutch in to go, Clutch pedal was suddenly dead on the floor without any warning. So I pulled it up by hand and managed to get 2 more shifts in and then it just stayed all the way to the floor. After pulling into a parking lot to take a look and seeing pedal was completely dead with no obvious signs of excessively low fluid in master cylinder, I managed to start car in 1st gear with clutch fully engaged and lurched off and kind of power shifted gears to make it home about 2 miles and had no clutch slippage issues or anything.

So today I get under car and find a good size puddle under the clutch release cylinder and when I moved the boot aside oil poured out a bit and I could move the cylinder rod easy enough by hand to completely remove it from shift fork and pull it all the way out of cylinder. So apparently clutch release cylinder is bad and need to know what part to get, how much approx, how hard to change in driveway etc.

Btw has this happened to anybody else? Thx
 

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Last edited:
That is the clutch slave cylinder. It's easy to change, but to bleed the system yourself, you'll want to buy a speed bleeder for it. The speed bleeder has a check valve in it, allowing you to bleed whatever it's installed in without needing two people.

It's probably also worthwhile to change the clutch master while you are at it.
 
Ok thanks. Is Autozone Duralast $20 any good?
 
Nevermind on Duralast question because just looked around and see oem is strongly recommended. Anyone know where to get oem the cheapest? I'm still real tempted to get the $20 duralast one tho especially if they have it in stock just to get car running today.
 
That is the clutch slave cylinder. It's easy to change, but to bleed the system yourself, you'll want to buy a speed bleeder for it. The speed bleeder has a check valve in it, allowing you to bleed whatever it's installed in without needing two people.

It's probably also worthwhile to change the clutch master while you are at it.

I have a method that i use that only involves one person for clutch of brakes. If you take a piece of wood or a bar of sorts and after pump the pedal wedge it between the seat and pedal, than slide the seat foreward. It is more time consuming, but it works well when you are a one man wrecking crew like myself.
 
I just installed slave and master last week. I got both of them from Advance Auto for about $60. My slave failed but figured master was close behind so I changed it out, too. I used a vacuum pump kit to bleed the system myself. Changing master was a pain because the pedal linkage is so hard to access. There is a YouTube video on how to properly adjust of master cylinder rod.
 
After reading up about this part I'm definitely going to get oem slave cylinder even though I really don't want to spend the money. I have someone to help with bleeding clutch and will update after getting it in, thx.
 
Just drove 65 mi today to Extreme PSI to get OEM slave cylinder for 80 bux with tax. Installed it and everything seems good :)

I've seen threads with guys saying they used aftermarket rebuild kits for their oem slave cylinder fix and having problems with seals, rod lengths etc. Are there oem mitsu rebuild kits out there and if so are they fail proof in terms of quality parts and for a novice to reassemble correctly? Just wondering because really hated paying 80 bux being these slave cylinders seem quite simple.
 
I used an after-market brute power slave cylinder on my talon and so far it's worked out great.
also If you don't have a stainless clutch line get one, they are well worth the effort to install.

I rebuilt the old release cylinder with a kit that I bought from o'reilly's auto for a 1991 3000gt [they are the correct size for the 3/4 inch cylinder bore] rebuild kit, so make sure you know what size slave cylinder you have before ordering, I cleaned out the bore and managed to reused the old oem spring.

If I have any issues with the brute power unit, I'll be using the old one I rebuilt, and I'll make a post if it works or not hopefully that day will never come...
 
Clutch action is noticeably improved now with new slave cylinder and bleeding the system no doubt helped too :applause:
 
After about a 100 miles on the aftermarket parts (master and slave), this clutch is feeling much smoother. It's almost likable. At first I was wondering if I should have went OEM.
 
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