Clutch disengagement issues!!!!

Posted by d_rock10030, Nov 25, 2011
Maintenance & Repairs - Oil choices, timing belt, setting timing, CV boot replacement, alternator servicing, fuse/relay checks, and other basic maintenance, repair and diagnosis discussions.

  1. d_rock10030

    d_rock10030 Proven Member

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    So here is what i've done. (95 gsx)

    Brand new act 2100 and light weight fly. I replaced the slave cylinder (It was leaking at a seal). I properly bleed the clutch with a friend. There wasnt any air in the lines at all. The fluid level is on the money.

    Here's my issue.
    After bleeeding the slave out with no air in the system the clutch engagement (You can feel it) is almost all the way to the floor. Its sloppy peddal (just enough pressure to return when pressed down) all the way through then it gets really stiff right near the floor and thats when you can feel the clutch engage. So I was thinking that there might still be air in the line... wrong!!!! It goes through the gears fine when its not started but when its running it will only go in when I am mashing the pedal to the floor and even then you cant drive it because when you try to ease the pedal out it just pops and stalls.

    Am I looking at a master issue? Maybe a rebuild of the master?
    #1
  2. bryanwheat

    bryanwheat DSM Wiseman

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    Have you tried to adjust the rod on the master cylinder yet?

    Proper Clutch Adjustment - YouTube
    #2
  3. BoosTNThreshold

    BoosTNThreshold Proven Member

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    Agreed! If bleeding is not fixing the problem then the next step would be master cylinder rod adjustment. It's a pretty easy fix.
    #3
  4. d_rock10030

    d_rock10030 Proven Member

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    Yeah I alreeady watched that video like five times and believe I have it done correctly but I still am not having any luck.
    #4
  5. GsxEcutioner

    GsxEcutioner Proven Member

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    you may have to pull the Trans if youve bled and replaced the hydraulics.
    #5
  6. d_rock10030

    d_rock10030 Proven Member

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    I already pulled the trans and swapped out the clutch and p.p That was the first thing I did thinking that that was the problem! But after throwing it all together again the problem is still haunting me. The old clutch and p.p look really good too... when I bought the thing the previous owner said that he just replaced it and that looks to be the case. Anymore ideas?
    #6
  7. bryanwheat

    bryanwheat DSM Wiseman

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    You didn't replace the clutch fork and pivot ball though did you? That is a pretty common problem in these cars. I would pull the transmission and shim the pivot ball and see where you are.
    #7
  8. my dreamt dsm

    my dreamt dsm Proven Member

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    I had the same exact problem with my install. The only thing that fixed it was when I REDID the tranny job, I DID NOT bleed the clutch and it worked. Till this day I'm baffled at how that would of helped!
    #8
  9. Cruz67

    Cruz67 Proven Member

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    + 1 for shift fork and pivot ball had same problem with mine now shift great!
    #9
  10. d_rock10030

    d_rock10030 Proven Member

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    :banghead:Is there any way of replacing the fork and pivot ball without pulling the entire trans again? I just got the thing baack together and it was kinda a long process with going to class every day and working thid shift mon-fri...
    #10
  11. bryanwheat

    bryanwheat DSM Wiseman

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    No, you are going to have to completely separate the transmission from the engine to get in there and change it.
    #11
  12. Cruz67

    Cruz67 Proven Member

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    Ha ha did the same thing. Had to pull it out again. It goes much fastet with how to do it fresh in your head the 2nd time around
    #12
  13. murcielago

    murcielago Proven Member

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    1 day process..take a Saturday or Sunday off, and do it. not too bad teh 2nd time around, hardest thing is taking all the thing around the trans, to get to the trans and drop it.. ..

    Good Luck..
    #13
  14. d_rock10030

    d_rock10030 Proven Member

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    Started tarring the thing apart last night because when I looked at the fork it was running into the bell housing everytime the clutch pedal was pressed in. Shim time!
    #14
  15. Nine5TalonTSi

    Nine5TalonTSi Probationary Member

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    Sorry for hijacking but you guys mean to say that the transmission can be removedwhith engine left intact? I thought the whole mess had to come out engine/trans. Thanks!
    #15
  16. GsxEcutioner

    GsxEcutioner Proven Member

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    Trans can come out without the removal of the motor.
    -Shane

    BTW I just got done with this problem, my clutch setup needed to be replaced.
    #16
  17. MJcanada

    MJcanada Proven Member

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    Trans can be removed without the engine. Engine can't be removed without the trans if its manual. Unless of course the trans is removed first. LOL If its auto engine can be removed without trans leaving trans in car.

    also act 2100 clutch setups are known to have engagement issues where an extended slave cylinder push rod is required. So after shimming is complete and you still have engagement issues make sure the clutch pedal is adjusted. If adjustment does't fix shifting problem ( Its sloppy peddal (just enough pressure to return when pressed down) all the way through then it gets really stiff right near the floor and thats when you can feel the clutch engage) then you may need an extended push rod. eBay LOL
    #17
  18. zanderson

    zanderson Proven Member

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    I would never shim the pivot ball, did it and pulled the tranny a 3rd time! just buy a new one it is like $12 on extremepsi.com. Me and a few buddies pulled my tranny about 2 weeks ago to replace mine. We had it out and back in, in 3 and a half hours. If you pump the pedal a few times before shifting does it help? If everything is bled good and the master cylinder rod is adjusted properly you SHOULDN'T need an extended push rod. Also if your slave was bad your master may be also or follow shortly. I would start with trying to adjust the rod and see where that gets you?
    #18
  19. d_rock10030

    d_rock10030 Proven Member

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    Finally all put back together... the pivot ball shims worked like a charm. bled the lines and the clutch pedal feels like new again! thanks to all for the input on my issues! check this one off the list now.
    #19
  20. TurboTsiThatFly

    TurboTsiThatFly Proven Member

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    I'm having the same issue as the o.p. and I have to ask how much are you guys having to shim the pivot ball. Cause I've pulled my trans 3 times replaced the clutch 3 times. Same problem again. So how far all you all shimming the pivot ball. Cause it seems like I need about a half of an inch of travel.
    #20
  21. GsxEcutioner

    GsxEcutioner Proven Member

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    It all depends. You can't ask anyone how much to shim it for your setup. Shim it put it back together, and do it over and over until it works.
    -Shane
    #21
  22. TurboTsiThatFly

    TurboTsiThatFly Proven Member

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    Thanks for the quick reply. I bought a new clutch fork and pivot ball from competition clutches and the brand new clutch fork needs to be shimmed. Can anyone answer why that is? Cause everything is new and the fork needs about a half inch of free play out of it.
    #22
  23. 4g63dreams

    4g63dreams Proven Member

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    I think everytime you resurface a fly wheel it is recommendable to shim the pivot ball.

    In my opinion, best bet is to buy a new fork and pivot set with a new flywheel. So everything is new and if your still having problems, check the hydraulic clutch cable. Can be replaced with a 10.5" break line. Again replace slave and masters with old n check.. Those the main problems...

    Input shaft on transmission can cause problems if faulty, make sure it slides on and off with very little friction and no hesitation.

    There is an extra reservoir that is bypassable and gives us better feel of pedal when removed. It is located between slave and transmission.
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2012
    #23
  24. TurboTsiThatFly

    TurboTsiThatFly Proven Member

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    Well the thing is I have a new clutch master cylinder, new slave cylinder, new clutch and pressure plate, new t.o.b. new clutch fork and pivot ball. There isn't any problems with the trans or cables or hydraulic system for the clutch. Literally everything is brand new. So why would I have to shim the pivot ball it makes no sense. We everything is in perfect working order?
    #24
  25. 4g63dreams

    4g63dreams Proven Member

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    How is your actual pedal assembly then? Do you have ss lines with the new kit installed?
    Rubber lines can expand rather than provide enough fluid travel to engage everything properly.
    #25

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