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Changing valve stem seals [Merged 8-7]

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tbird

20+ Year Contributor
170
1
Nov 10, 2002
IndianaUS
I need some tips on how to change the valve seals... im gonna be doing this for a friend how much time can i expcent doing this. and what tools will be needed.....
 
danl said:
Sorry, that tool won't work. DSM heads are much to tight to get it to fit. Your only choices are pulling the head and using the c clamp style tool or miller tool. The vfaq has this all covered allready...........

Agreed, the tool costs anywhere from $80.00 to $130.00 to purchase. One can be made using some steel bar and and c-clamp though. The universal ones won't work for our heads.
 
I used the Schley products overhead tool (like the Miller), you can find it at most Volkswagen shops as they have clearance issues like we do.

You don't need to remove your timing belt at all. Follow the VFAQ for cam install, as you will have to remove your cams. I used an air compressor with an adapter to the spark plug hole. Be careful with the air pressure, if the cylinder is not at the bottom of the stroke, there is a good chance the engine will move and you then WILL have to do your timing belt job.

Also be careful to not damage the new valve stem seals as you install them and make sure they are well lubed. Finally tap them home with a 11mm deep socket and a hammer. Without doing this you can't gaurantee they will seat properly and you WILL get to do it again. Firm hand pressure was not enough for 4 out of my 16 valves. :)
 
If you've been burning oil for a decent amount of mileage I would highly recommend taking the head off for a good clean. If you have seen the exhaust and intake valves on a engine thats been burning oil from faulty valve guide seals you wouln't hesitate.. It took at least 6 cans of carb cleaner to clean mine up.
 
I just finished changing my valve stem seals when I was doing my cams/valvesprings/reatiners. Follow the RRE or prostreetonline install instructions for cams, this will allow access to the springs. I borrowed a tool that could compress the valve springs with the head on the car. I rigged up a compression tester so I could apply pressure to the cylinders throught the spark plug holes. To do this you need to remove both cams as the other cam will hold some of that valves open when the motor is at TDC. Make sure to give all the retainers a quick hit to break the keepers lose first. I used a 12 mm socket to press the new stem seals back on.
 
T2Small said:
Also be careful to not damage the new valve stem seals as you install them and make sure they are well lubed. Finally tap them home with a 11mm deep socket and a hammer. Without doing this you can't gaurantee they will seat properly and you WILL get to do it again. Firm hand pressure was not enough for 4 out of my 16 valves. :)

Agreed, I'm looking at doing mine again as I believe a fair number haven't seated properly.
 
Never saw that piece with my seals, but I got them in the full engine gasket kit I bought a year ago. I used a liberal amount of clevite assembly lube though when putting them back together.
 
Without the sleeve it's easy to damage the seal during installation. It's just a clear plastic sleeve that stretches over the stem of the valve. You slide on the sleeve, slide on the seal, remove the sleeve, and repeat 15 times.
 
So where can you get this sleve and installation tool?

I just finished replacing my seals, I just lubed the seals well before I installed them. With the FP seals I was able to set them with a socket and hand pressure, for the factory style seals, they needed to be tapped in place with a socket and hammer. The car should be up and running tonight so hopefully there weren't any issues with my install. If there is I guess I'll need to know where to pick up the proper tools.
 
as far as the tool goes i had to make my own, as far as not removing the timing belt to do it, thats up to you i guess but depending on your mileage it might be a good time to put on a new timing belt anyway, and in regards to keeping the valves from falling out while doing seals with head still bolted on (someone will probably fight me on this) i used the pistons to hold them in just turn 1&4 to tdc do those seals then turn 3&4 to tdc and do those seals youll have to compress the springs alittle farther but it worked for me
 
they sell it at just about any parts store. it allows you to hook up an air line into the sparkplug hole, to pressurize the cyl. and prevent the valves from dropping.
 
I did it, modded a compression tester to use to fill the cylinders with pressurized air. As for the tool, I was able to rent one from a local member who machined up a custom tool that allowed two spring to be compressed at once & locked in place to make the job a one person ordeal. Haven't looked around a whole lot, but most of the tools I've seen won't work as well.
 

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I'll post this again on how to keep up valves in doing seals without compressed air:

1- take the plugs out
2- roll the crank 180* off TDC
3- drop a good length of 1/4" nylon rope down the one, or two bores if you got long enough rope to put down both bores that have the pistons down. Then roll the crank so the pistons coming up compresses the rope against the closed valves. Then do your seals.
 
I just purchased a 95 Gst with bad valve seals. I have the book and have looked at the post and faq but I still have a couple of questions I could really use an answer too.
If I turn the crank to get cylinders 2&3 up after I finish 1&4 do I just line up the timing marks when I'm done to get the cylinders back to TDC ?
Can I leave the sprockets on the cams when I remove them?
Will removing the cams throw off the timing?
Sorry if these are dumb questions, I just want to make sure that I don't mess this thing up, never dealt with timing before. Thanks in advance for any answers.
 
1. If I understand your question correctly...yea.
2. Yes
3. Yes
You're better off pulling the head to do the valve seals.
 
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