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Changing valve stem seals [Merged 8-7]

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tbird

20+ Year Contributor
170
1
Nov 10, 2002
IndianaUS
I need some tips on how to change the valve seals... im gonna be doing this for a friend how much time can i expcent doing this. and what tools will be needed.....
 
Well my car is smoking and im not sure why talked to a machine shop today and they said it sounds like its the valve seals so how hard is it to change these?? DO it with the head still on?? You have to take the cams out??? Let me know thanks!!
 
You do NOT need to remove the head. You WILL need to remove and reinstall cams and rocker assemblies. You will also need special tools (valve spring compressor, shop air with spark plug hole adapter). I used to pay a shop to do this, doesn't mean it gets done right. Buy a Haynes manual (under $20), Chapter 2A explains it all, even how to do it without compressed air.
 
12sec92Tsi said:
Its alot easier if you have the head off of the car as they are much easier to get to. But you can do it with the head on the car if you buy the Miller tool for $190. Here's a link that may be helpful.
http://vfaq.com/mods/Valvestem-seals.html


Exactly what 12sec92Tsi said: Easier if you have the head off the car... :thumb:

If you do decide to replace your seals with the head off you may buy a 'Head Gasket Set" and the valve seals would be included as part of the set + you would not be required to buy the Miller tool.

When I replaced my valve seals my smoking quit and the car stopped drinking as much oil.

How many miles do you have on your car/headgasket and How are you set on tools to work with? :dsm:
 
I work for a machine shop, and we developed a tool that will allow you to change your valve stem seals on the car! Its the fastest and safest tool available on the market. You do not have to remove the cylinder head!! I just did the valve stem seals on a 90 talon TSI- once I got the Cams off, it took me 20min per cylinder to remove and replace the seals. The tool costs a little bit, but if you consider the time to remove the turbo, intake and exhuast manifolds, and the cost of a cylinder head gasket, fluids... etc, you might want to consider taking a look at this tool. KEEPER-EEZE TOOLS It will definitely pay for itself, and it can be used in various applications. If you have any questions, or if you're interested, PM me.
 
EZ91Talon said:
You do NOT need to remove the head or cams. You WILL need to remove and replace the rocker assemblies. You will also need special tools (valve spring compressor, shop air with spark plug hole adapter). I used to pay a shop to do this, doesn't mean it gets done right. Buy a Haynes manual (under $20), Chapter 2A section 6 explains it all, even how to do it without compressed air.


SO i can do them with out removing my intake and exhaust cams?? How is this i thought the valve springs were underneath the cams??? Tell me more and i have all the tools and air in our shop!! I need to find more info thanks!!
 
i kinda thought it was pretty impossible to get the seals out with out moving the cams LOL ah well its going to be a shity job i hate doin a timing belt job with the motor in the car its alot easier whne its out! :thumb: The factroy mitsu ones good to go with?? (valve seals) i mean!!
 
Yeah, so we got desperate.

1/2 inch exstention, 1/2 inch to 3/8 inch adapter

spark plug remover (13/16)
13mm 1/2 inch socket


That's it. Nothing more. Oh yeah, some man strength. Now, I'm not totally sure if its ever been done, but we were sitting in my boys room, fighting this valve spring compressor and got fed up. We first took the socket and just rammed the retainters down and eventually, well really, as son as you move the spring pass the ridge in the valve the retainers catch, they pop right out. Then putting it back together is almost just as easy. Put the spring on and center the keepers in the middle of the retainer. With the 13mm, its just big enough to go around the keepers so they don't fall out of place. And one good real hard push should put them right into place. It took as about 3 hours total, but only because it took us 2 and a half hours to do the first 2. We had to figure out that the 13/16 wasn't good for putting them back on, the keepers would plop out of place. After we figured out that the smaller socket worked, the other 14 valves really only took about a half hour if that.

I just figured I share it. We've been having problems with this talon forever now and I think with this top rebuild and giving the fact that we could patch the hole in the block better with the head off, the car runsperfect now. A minimal oil leak if any, it might have just been from past times that the oil leaked off a littlewhile ago. But since, there has ben one spec of oil beneath the return line.

Cool, huh!?
 
i did something similar.took my 6 inch c-clamp and took a peice of flat metal,bent it in a u-shape,and used that combo and a magnet to remove the keepers.kinda crude,but works.I'd probably get banned from the site if i posted half the things ive done to make the eclipse work.
 
Hahah, yeah, I think i would get banned too. Especially for the shit I have done with this talon in the last 2 weeks.
 
haha i got another way i am a cheep ass and i didnt have the tool so i just cut my moms old school broom handle about 2 inches off of it and used it to compress the springs and put umm back in with a magnetic screw driver
 
i used a broken drill press some wood and grease and a pipe that was cut to fit
BTW you put the grease on the inside of the keepers and they will stick to the valve and makes it allot easer to get the other one on
 
Someone tell me why my dumb@$$ wasted $140.00 on the Snap-On DOHC valve spring Compressor???

DSM's.....Making all the cheapskates of the world "creative" since 1989
-Rob
 
Wow, I am struggling with this thing and I am not a weak guy. I tried to do it with a socket and just push hard, but I cannot push hard enough to get it to move. Just wanted to say kudos to the awesomeness...
 
Ravenous said:
Wow, I am struggling with this thing and I am not a weak guy. I tried to do it with a socket and just push hard, but I cannot push hard enough to get it to move. Just wanted to say kudos to the awesomeness...

You need to take a hammer and firmly tap the edge of each retainer to break the keepers loose. The keepers tend to wedge into the retainer over time. Thats why you couldnt compress them by hand.
 
i am currently trying to replace my valve seals, but the outline in the hanes manual is very drawn out in the sense that they want you to remove the timing belt and all. i was wondering if any of you have changed the seals without removing the timing belt or turning the crank to top dead center. have any of you filled the cylinders with something so that the valve would not fall in? the hanes manual suggests using nylon rope or something like that.
thanks for any help
 
When I replaced my valve stem seals I did the whole job. Took the head off replaced and head gasket and every other gasket and put in arp's. Yes you do remove the timing belt. You can get a special valve spring compressor tool for around 10 bucks that will allow you to take the springs off with out taking the head off.
 
snowboard1 said:
When I replaced my valve stem seals I did the whole job. Took the head off replaced and head gasket and every other gasket and put in arp's. Yes you do remove the timing belt. You can get a special valve spring compressor tool for around 10 bucks that will allow you to take the springs off with out taking the head off.

Where is this tool you speak of?:)
 
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