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Posted by ThomasGSX, Dec 12, 2010
Newbie Forum - Beginner/newbie/general DSM modification questions. First mods, how to run 10's when you haven't run 12's yet, any tech question that doesn't fit in another tech forum.
I know, but I just did an oil change less than 500 miles ago, using Royal Purple, and did not want to throw it out.
true, but I didnt want to throw away 50$ motor oil is my point, the way I see it is less-than royal purple is still better than car that leaks and burns up a lot of royal purple.
San Fran may not get super cold but the high viscosity of motor honey is going to affect oil delivery when the engine is cold. So you may want to go easy on the engine for the first few minutes until it has warmed up and the oil is flowing properly.
Does it say it's safe for a turbo application? Thing I'm trying to understand is you say you have an oil leak at the turbo. Where exactly is it leaking out from? Feed, drain or past shaft seals (burning)?
I am not acting like it was a mod, I am saying I bought expensive oil, and do not feel like wasting the money on more oil when I have barely put 500 miles on it, Damn, does everybody have something bad to say about everyone on here??? I was posting that this product works pretty well, I am not saying that it is a bad ass mod, and I am not saying it is the greatest thing in the world, I was just stating a good experience I had with this product.
It says it is safe with all gasoline or diesel application, there were some products that say not recommended for oil fed turbocharged engines, but I steered clear of those.
it has been blowing grayish-blue smoke at high RPM and high boost, and there is a little bit of oil in the inter-cooler lines, so I would assume that that is the past shaft seals. Also I do let the engine warm up completely before driving it. I always let my car warm up for 10 minutes for 10 minutes when starting it cold and let it idle for three minutes when shutting it off.
So it didn't specifically say for use with turbo applications?
So the turbo was eating oil prior to the honey? The only way for oil to get in the IC lines would be from the VC vent line that is attached to the intake pipe.
There isn't a need to sit and idle unless you didn't take it easy before you got to your parking destination. I drive easy for the last min or two before parking and when I just had my turbo apart I had no coking. Also it's not a water cooled turbo like the stocker.
..ever thought about the high oil pressure that you're developing with a motor all wound up as tight as a pissed off goat?
If your doing blue on a high RPM setup, better think on doing a rebuild for the oil rings are getting tired and that high oil pressure is blowing past the oil rings.
..and leave all of those oil additives alone - just cheap fixes for poor souls.
I'm still not 100% sure, it just does it only when its high RPMS and high boost, it does not smoke when the boost is down and the RPMs are high, and also when the RPMs are lower but the boost is full it doesn't smoke at all, its only when you have both up high. And I did the 9$ catch can so its not from the VC line, the lower inter-cooler line is coated with oil. But I have almost no shaft play, (very minimal, within the normal limits). so you think its oil seals? like which ones, I just had a rebuild on it not even 50,000 miles ago, so I doubt its my piston rings, but I can run a compression check as well as a leak down check.
How many miles is on the motor, would be the next question, for if it's high, then I would tag it as tired rings...why the smoking stopped with you threw in that "Motor Honey" (which is the same stuff as STP Oil Treatment ..) oil treatment.
If you're going through oil that bad, I wouldn't be shoving that expensive Royal Purple stuff in a tired motor. For that expensive stuff will not save a tired motor by itself. Save a few bucks and use regular dino 10w 30 (like Vavoline or Castrol) until the rebuild comes around.
I have less than 50,000 miles on this motor. pistons and rings were replaced when the rebuild was done. do you think I am alright as long as I check my oil and top it off regularly? It really isnt going through oil severley, it just was the smoking, that I was worried about, and the fact I have to smog it soon, I am hoping that it does not affect the outcome of my smog test. ####ing California.
If your car was smoking before and it stopped when you added Motor Honey or switched to a thicker oil, your valve seals are leaking. Peer into the head when you have the manifold removed while doing the turbo swap to verify this...the stems should not be wet at all if the valve seals are OK.
For normal driving, do not use anything thinner than 10W30 in our cars.
Good to know, thank you for your help, it does still smoke when I Run the RPMs high, but once driven for the first few miles, it clears up. So valve stem seals? I have heard this is not a major problem, just more of an annoyance, as long as I keep it topped off, I should be OK, is this correct?
Generally-speaking, valve seals will smoke after extended idling or low-RPM operation and will normally clear up while driving at speed, piston rings will smoke all of the time, and a blown turbo or leaking turbine seal will begin to smoke during deceleration after a hard pull, followed by smoke during a hard pull, and will eventually smoke all of the time if ignored.
It does smoke when you are in high RPMs but only if you go full boost.
It does not smoke when it is lower RPMs even if you go full boost.
Motor Honey seems to help.
There is motor oil lined in the lower inter-cooler hoses.
....That is all I know at this time, what does this sound like?
Oil's a funny substance - loves to get on everywhere when you can't see it ..
Every DSM on the road that has the factory PCV system with the valve cover routed to the air intake will have oil in the lower intercooler pipe, even if the turbo is brand new. The turbo is sucking oil vapor out of the valve cover and forcing it into the intercooler piping.