CASITE "Motor Honey"

Posted by ThomasGSX, Dec 12, 2010
Newbie Forum - Beginner DSM modification questions and discussions. Common, repetitive, and general discussions will get dumped here from other tech forums. Unless you're a Probationary member you shouldn't post threads here.

  1. ThomasGSX

    ThomasGSX Proven Member

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    Ok, so, as some of you who have read my previous thread know, I am wanting to do a 16g upgrade due to my stock T-25 having a slight oil leak, and am on a tight budget. I went down to the local parts store and talked to a couple of guys there about my problem, and they said that they have had the same issue before and had luck using this stuff called "motor honey", so I decided what the hell, might as well give it a try for 4$ as a last ditch effort to fix the problem for the mean time. They did however say that they have heard of some issues with this stuff about when the engine is cold in the winter, it puts a lot more strain on the engine, which I dont think I have to worry about too much, as the weather has never reached a temperature lower than 30 degrees in the 22 years I have been living here (I live in the bay area of CA) So, anyways I scooped this stuff in my engine and fired her up, and gave it a whirl, and my GSX stopped smoking almost immediately!!! I was amazed that this snake oil actually helped the problem, granted that I understand that this stuff is not a permanent fix, but will hopefully hold me over the winter until I can get the money for a true 16G and supporting mods and do the job correctly the first time. I was seriously puzzled on how this helped, I'm guessing that the seal wasn't leaking enormously for how quickly it stopped the issue. Has anyone else ever tried this stuff?
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  2. knochgoon24

    knochgoon24 DSM Wiseman

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    You could have just tried a heavier weight oil. That's all that "motor honey" did. It just made your oil thicker.
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  3. ThomasGSX

    ThomasGSX Proven Member

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    I know, but I just did an oil change less than 500 miles ago, using Royal Purple, and did not want to throw it out. LOL
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  4. knochgoon24

    knochgoon24 DSM Wiseman

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    Well you don't exactly have Royal Purple in it anymore...
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  5. ThomasGSX

    ThomasGSX Proven Member

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    true, but I didnt want to throw away 50$ motor oil is my point, the way I see it is less-than royal purple is still better than car that leaks and burns up a lot of royal purple.:thumb:
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  6. Ninja GSX

    Ninja GSX Proven Member

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    The issue with motor honey in cold weather is because it has such a high viscosity it congeals like glue and sinks to the lowest point in the oil pan where the oil pump pickup is. So when you cold start the engine there is a congealed lump of motor honey surrounding the pickup preventing oil from flowing into the pump.

    San Fran may not get super cold but the high viscosity of motor honey is going to affect oil delivery when the engine is cold. So you may want to go easy on the engine for the first few minutes until it has warmed up and the oil is flowing properly.
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  7. LiquidX

    LiquidX DSM Wiseman

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    Another thing to note is those oil thickeners like Lucas are best not used on turbo motors as the oil thickness is too high and will not drain out properly.

    Does it say it's safe for a turbo application? Thing I'm trying to understand is you say you have an oil leak at the turbo. Where exactly is it leaking out from? Feed, drain or past shaft seals (burning)?
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  8. GsXdSmKingGsX

    GsXdSmKingGsX Supporting Member

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    Ok your acting like using Royal Purple oil is a mod or something. Its just expensive. Go change your oil dude.
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  9. ThomasGSX

    ThomasGSX Proven Member

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    I am not acting like it was a mod, I am saying I bought expensive oil, and do not feel like wasting the money on more oil when I have barely put 500 miles on it, Damn, does everybody have something bad to say about everyone on here??? I was posting that this product works pretty well, I am not saying that it is a bad ass mod, and I am not saying it is the greatest thing in the world, I was just stating a good experience I had with this product.

    It says it is safe with all gasoline or diesel application, there were some products that say not recommended for oil fed turbocharged engines, but I steered clear of those.

    it has been blowing grayish-blue smoke at high RPM and high boost, and there is a little bit of oil in the inter-cooler lines, so I would assume that that is the past shaft seals. Also I do let the engine warm up completely before driving it. I always let my car warm up for 10 minutes for 10 minutes when starting it cold and let it idle for three minutes when shutting it off.
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  10. LiquidX

    LiquidX DSM Wiseman

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    So it didn't specifically say for use with turbo applications?

    So the turbo was eating oil prior to the honey? The only way for oil to get in the IC lines would be from the VC vent line that is attached to the intake pipe.

    There isn't a need to sit and idle unless you didn't take it easy before you got to your parking destination. I drive easy for the last min or two before parking and when I just had my turbo apart I had no coking. Also it's not a water cooled turbo like the stocker.
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  11. DSM1G90

    DSM1G90 Supporting Member

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    ..ever thought about the high oil pressure that you're developing with a motor all wound up as tight as a pissed off goat?

    If your doing blue on a high RPM setup, better think on doing a rebuild for the oil rings are getting tired and that high oil pressure is blowing past the oil rings.

    ..and leave all of those oil additives alone - just cheap fixes for poor souls.
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  12. tazndrew04

    tazndrew04 Proven Member

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    ive used it before in a n/a eclipse i had as it was smoking from the oil rings being bad. So i put it in and the motor hesitated instantly as it was running when i put it in. As you said its just temporary and thats all motor honey is.
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  13. ThomasGSX

    ThomasGSX Proven Member

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    I'm still not 100% sure, it just does it only when its high RPMS and high boost, it does not smoke when the boost is down and the RPMs are high, and also when the RPMs are lower but the boost is full it doesn't smoke at all, its only when you have both up high. And I did the 9$ catch can so its not from the VC line, the lower inter-cooler line is coated with oil. But I have almost no shaft play, (very minimal, within the normal limits). so you think its oil seals? like which ones, I just had a rebuild on it not even 50,000 miles ago, so I doubt its my piston rings, but I can run a compression check as well as a leak down check.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, 2014
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  14. DSM1G90

    DSM1G90 Supporting Member

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    kinda answered your own question there: no smoke on the low RPM thing.

    How many miles is on the motor, would be the next question, for if it's high, then I would tag it as tired rings...why the smoking stopped with you threw in that "Motor Honey" (which is the same stuff as STP Oil Treatment ..) oil treatment.


    If you're going through oil that bad, I wouldn't be shoving that expensive Royal Purple stuff in a tired motor. For that expensive stuff will not save a tired motor by itself. Save a few bucks and use regular dino 10w 30 (like Vavoline or Castrol) until the rebuild comes around.
    .
    good luck-DSM
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  15. ThomasGSX

    ThomasGSX Proven Member

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    I have less than 50,000 miles on this motor. pistons and rings were replaced when the rebuild was done. do you think I am alright as long as I check my oil and top it off regularly? It really isnt going through oil severley, it just was the smoking, that I was worried about, and the fact I have to smog it soon, I am hoping that it does not affect the outcome of my smog test. ####ing California.
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  16. JusMX141

    JusMX141 Moderator

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    Heavier oil will not repair a turbine seal leak in a turbocharger. If anything it would make the turbo leak worse as heavier oil would raise the pressure entering the cartridge and drain slower as well.

    If your car was smoking before and it stopped when you added Motor Honey or switched to a thicker oil, your valve seals are leaking. Peer into the head when you have the manifold removed while doing the turbo swap to verify this...the stems should not be wet at all if the valve seals are OK.

    For normal driving, do not use anything thinner than 10W30 in our cars.
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  17. ThomasGSX

    ThomasGSX Proven Member

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    Good to know, thank you for your help, it does still smoke when I Run the RPMs high, but once driven for the first few miles, it clears up. So valve stem seals? I have heard this is not a major problem, just more of an annoyance, as long as I keep it topped off, I should be OK, is this correct?
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  18. JusMX141

    JusMX141 Moderator

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    If the smoke clears up while driving, I'd point toward the engine being the cause of the smoke.

    Generally-speaking, valve seals will smoke after extended idling or low-RPM operation and will normally clear up while driving at speed, piston rings will smoke all of the time, and a blown turbo or leaking turbine seal will begin to smoke during deceleration after a hard pull, followed by smoke during a hard pull, and will eventually smoke all of the time if ignored.
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  19. DSM1G90

    DSM1G90 Supporting Member

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    Oh agree on valve seals. Have a 1.8 that I did valve seals on it at 139k. Now, getting ready to do 200k on the block, it smokes a bit on the startup... getting ready for valve seals again in the near future..
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  20. ThomasGSX

    ThomasGSX Proven Member

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    yeah, still not sure.

    It does smoke when you are in high RPMs but only if you go full boost.

    It does not smoke when it is lower RPMs even if you go full boost.

    Motor Honey seems to help.

    There is motor oil lined in the lower inter-cooler hoses.

    ....That is all I know at this time, what does this sound like?:idontknow:
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  21. DSM1G90

    DSM1G90 Supporting Member

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    called when the turbo is engaged, the PCV valve is fully closed and the blowby has to go somewhere - and it should go back into the intake before the turbo. If something is not breathing too well, it coats things up like crazy.

    Oil's a funny substance - loves to get on everywhere when you can't see it ..
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2010
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  22. JusMX141

    JusMX141 Moderator

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    Every DSM on the road that has the factory PCV system with the valve cover routed to the air intake will have oil in the lower intercooler pipe, even if the turbo is brand new. The turbo is sucking oil vapor out of the valve cover and forcing it into the intercooler piping.
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  23. ThomasGSX

    ThomasGSX Proven Member

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    So it may just be something breathing poorly??? Ideas on what to check?:aha:
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  24. JusMX141

    JusMX141 Moderator

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    Start with the PCV valve- if the valve is bad the crankcase can't vent properly. If the crankcase can't vent properly, the turbo can't drain properly. It's a vicious cycle with an identity crisis.
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  25. ThomasGSX

    ThomasGSX Proven Member

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    ok, I'll replace that today and let you know from there.
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