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2G Car won't start

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algomni

Proven Member
42
2
May 11, 2014
Frankfort, Indiana
Hey guys, I know there is a thousand of these threads but I can't seem to find a solid answer for everything that is going on. So I just recently put the engine back in the car. Rebuilt head with DKS 272 cams and adjustable gears, timing belt, water pump, whole nine yards.

Went to start it for the first time in over a year last night and I had no fuel or spark. After testing the PTU, the coils, the 1g CAS I have, still nothing. Turns out I'm just an idiot and forgot to plug in the MFI relays. First problem is fixed. On the one where I really need the help. (Just giving background of what has happened so far)

Now I have fuel and spark. AFPR is showing 43.5 psi of rail pressure, spark is white so it's good and strong. Car will turn over and will fire once or twice, and die. Note that it will only fire when the pedal is held to the floor. I have no idea where to start with this. I have checked to make sure the timing is right. It does look a little suspicious, but nothing is making contact. Looks like the crank is ahead of the "T" on the front cover when the cam gears are lined up properly at the 12 o' clock position.

Now here is where I get really stupid and should be bashed on some before getting some help. I started messing with the cam gear adjustments. Eventually I got the car to run, but it would only run if you held the key and had the pedal to the floor. It wouldn't come close to idling on it own or anything. Then, I went to try it one last time before going in for the night, thinking that for some reason there is air in the fuel line or something still. Well, me being the genius I am, left the ratchet and socket on the crank pulley bolt. Well, when I cranked it, it took the bolt right out. Well, the car finally ran on it own. It was running like crap, but it ran for like a minute. Then it died. So now I really know it is out of time. I didn't hear anything make contact, but that doesn't mean it didn't. I am going to pull it back apart and fix the timing and do a leak down test within the week.

But my question is would the crank pulley being ahead of the "T" cause the car not want to start whatsoever? If not, where should I start after I fix my timing? I am thinking about ditching the adjustables as well just so I know nothing is moving on me.

Any help is appreciated. Thank you guys ahead of time!
 
What injectors are you running? what engine management are you running? is your cas 180* out by chance? did your pulley come off of the front of the engine when the bolt came out? how far off is the "T" from the cams when their dowels are at 12? Right now you need to do a compression test before you waste any time on it.
 
Don't touch the adjustable cam gears. You're more likely to hurt something than help. I want to say the bottom crank lines up with the mark with the cam gears lined up as well every 6 revolutions (not certain but you can look it up). There is a big thread here about no crank no start that will be of help to you.
 
Injectors are a 1050cc, but I put the stock 450's back in to make sure I wasn't just over fueling. Yes I did change the injector in DSMLink before I tried starting intially. Running DSMLink. I pulled the CAS out when cylinder 1 was at TDC and the notches were lined up correctly. No, the pulley did not come off the engine when the bolt came loose. I would say it was maybe an inch away from the "T" before it all came apart.
 
Update: I tore the timing back down and got it all set dead on the money. Compression is still good so I am okay there. Pulled the 1G CAS back out just to double check that it was in the correct position and it is. Then tried to start the car. Car ran for about 30 seconds then died like someone just shut the key off.

Would like to add that radiator is not currently in vehicle due to fabricating the exhaust up. Killing two birds with one stone right now. Before I tore the car down it had a stock o2 sensor in the o2 housing. Planned on going to just the wideband there so the o2 sensor is currently unplugged. Could the o2 sensor not being plugged in as well as no coolant running past the CTS cause it not to start since the vehicle is probably throwing it into closed loop immediately and trying to read the non-existant o2 sensor?
 
That is what I am leading to believe. I just got the call that the exhaust is done. So it will be going fully back together tonight and we will see if that is the issue. I went ahead and picked up some new BPR6ES plugs as well as a CTS because I get parts really cheap through work. Paid $22 for all of it. Rather have it and not need it and not have it and need it.
 
Update: I got an old HEI spark tester from a tech at work. Cylinder 1 and 3 will fire, but very slowly and sometimes cylinder 3 won’t fire at all.

What could cause 1 and 3 to intermintantly stop working/ fire very slowly? I thought that 1 and 4 worked together and then 2 and 3.
 
Also, compression is good across the board as well as fuel. I’m leaning to believe it’s a spark issue.

I also pulled out the ecu and checked it.

I believe it looks fine but someone else may think differently.

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I would replace the spark plugs and possibly the Ignition Control Module and also double check your Coil Packs if its sparking weird like that. Mine did a weird spark like that with bad plugs.
 
I would swap a ecu quick like. Mine was having issues like this. Easy and quick or at least be able to rule that out. Then spark related from there on out.
 
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