2G Can't understand "jack" about clutch adjustment

[Gribble]

I'm trying to adjust my clutch pedal rod. I searched the forums and watched jacks transmissions clutch adjustment YouTube video as recommend. However I'm left with 2 questions. #1 is the clutch pedal supposed to rest on the cruise control switch body were the threads are or only rest against the black spring loaded part enough to engage the switch? #2 I've adjusted my rod all the way out to the last thread but I can still reach under the car and push in the slave cylinder. What am I doing wrong? I checked for any visible leaks already but found none

 

[91talonts1]

The clutch switch needs to be adjusted seperate, enough to engage the switch but not stop the pedals travel.
If I understand you correctly you need to adjust the rod in not out, but I'm not sure which way you meant you have it. If the rod can't be adjusted properly you have a problem either with the hydraulics or the clutch itself. Possibly out of spec pivot ball/fork/step height.

 

[donniekak]

Is this on a 1g or 2g?

 

[Gribble]

Thile car is a 2g 1997 gst. I adjusted the rod out making it longer until it was only in the last few threads on the Clevis that attaches to pedal. I thought I followed jacks instructions correctly but even with the rod as long as I could make it I can still push in the slave cylinder. With the rod adjusted this long long now the pedal is so high that it is resting against the bracket the the cruise control screws into

 

[gofer]

Initially I was going to tell you to replace the clutch pedal assy. but since it's a 2g, nevermind!

Is the slave cylinder bolted to the transmission while you try to press it in, meaning you're actually pushing on the clutch fork to move the slave cylinder?

If so, unbolt the slave cylinder and try to move it. Then try to slide the clutch fork back and forth...

 

[DSM's 4 life]

I have a rock auto master and my rod is threaded all the way out so there is no slack in the pedel and i am still able to push the new oem slave in. I was having issues with dissingaugement i even tried longer rod i have two shims on my ball aready too. Bleed the system multiple times to find my issue was from improper bleeding when the pedel is down all the was and the bleed screw open you need to depress the slave more with your hand i did this three times all my issues were solved.

 

[Gribble]

Could you explain what involving the slave will help? I'm not doubting you I'd just like to understand better before I go unbolting things. I could see unbolting it if I could not push in the slave because maybe the fork is somehow binding but my problem is the exact opposite. I cannot adjust the master cylinder out enough to shut off the bypass valve so I can adjust for proper the proper throw.

 

[jakk220]

You need to push the slave cylinder rod the opposite way it is supposed to go. You do this by pushing the slave rod into the slave with the clutch fork. An air bubble can get trapped in a pocket in the slave that normal bleeding will never get. Its more common after replacing the slave. no need to remove it.

 

[Gribble]

Ok I understand why now but why would I randomly get an air bubble in an unopened system? Also I should have stated this earlier that the reason I am trying to adjust my clutch is for 2 reasons #1 I have started to experience a harsh engagement when I am letting out the clutch that seems to happen randomly #2 I read that it is a good thing to do periodically to prevent crankwalk. I have not changed any components

 

[gofer]

If there's air in the system it would make it softer not harder...

That being said, the reason why I'm telling you to unbolt the slave cylinder from the transmission and then push on the rod is because then you're ACTUALLY pushing on the slave cylinder rod and not the back of the clutch fork. The TOB could be trying to seize on the input sleeve not allowing you to push the fork by hand but you're thinking it's the hydraulics, when really it's the TOB/clutch fork causing the issue.

I'm not trying to tell you what to do but theoretically you're not really PUSHING ON THE SLAVE CYLINDER if it's bolted to the transmission, you're pushing on the clutch fork assuming it and the TOB are in good working order. You said it yourself, you've tried everything so I'm just trying to give you ideas of where else to look and what else to try. The symptoms you mentioned about the harsh engagement I'd actually be leaning more towards a TOB/clutch issue anyway...

Another thing since I'm posting, you didn't mention the brand of clutch master/slave cylinders you've got installed. Are they OE or reman'd from an auto parts store?

 

[Gribble]

They look original. They were on the car when I bought it a year ago. The bottom dust cover is missing on the bell housing like someone has been in there before. Car has 260,000 mile. It was owned by a older woman since new and no mods have been made that I know of. Tomorrow I will unbolt the slave and see if I can adjust the master cylinder rod out long enough to cut off the bypass valve to were I cannot push the slave cylinder rod in by hand as you suggested. If so I will back it off half a turn until I can push the slave in again like jacks transmission said to do in his YouTube video.

 

[gofer]

Well, not having that rubber boot on there almost confirms what I was leading to by pulling the slave cylinder off and checking things. The previous owner hooked you up because that fork boot keeps road dirt/debris out of the bell housing and it's 100% necessary considering the direction it faces (forward and down). I'm almost certain now that your issue is that the TOB is trying to seize on the input sleeve from road dirt/debris because you don't have the fork boot on there. I know it's not your fault but might end up costing you some manual labor and some OE parts to fix the issue.

$14 insurance to make sure this doesn't happen if it isn't the problem.
http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/oem_dsm_clutch_release_fork_boot.htm

If this is the case you'll have to pull the transmission to fix it.

 

[Gribble]

I was referring to the half moon shaped metal inspection cover is on the the drivers side of the bell housing. The rubber boot around the fork is there

 

[gofer]

Ahhh. I see. Not as bad but still the same consequence, allowing dirt and debris to enter the bell housing and potentially hang up the TOB from sliding freely on the input shaft sleeve.

MD195137 if you want to install one...

Good luck tomorrow, curious what you find.

 

[Gribble]

Ok so today I unbolted the slave cylinder. Even with it unbolted I can still push the slave cylinder in even though the master cylinder rod is extended as Long as it will go. With the rod in the last few threads of the clevis the slave did seem to get slightly harder to push in but didn't take much extra effort.

 

[Kenny07]

RRE has a good write up on the clutch adjustment
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

I had a hard time understanding Jacks YouTube video as well so I used RREs write up. Not sure if you've already said, but is the Master and Slave in good condition? With 260k miles, I hope those were replaced. Also, has the fluid ever been changed? Is it clean/clear or dirty?

 

[gofer]

Ok so today I unbolted the slave cylinder. Even with it unbolted I can still push the slave cylinder in even though the master cylinder rod is extended as Long as it will go. With the rod in the last few threads of the clevis the slave did seem to get slightly harder to push in but didn't take much extra effort.

That's good to hear. At least now you've narrowed the problem down to the hydraulics...

Do you still have the stock clutch accumulator? http://eatsleepdsmmag.com/2g-clutch-accumulator-delete/

 

[Gribble]

Ok for now until I get this issue resolved I have rod adjusted as long as it will go without the clutch pedal resting against the cruise control switch. I seem to have the smoothest shifts with it adjusted like that. Am I safe to drive it like this in the short term?

 

[gofer]

Do you still have the clutch accumulator?

 

[Gribble]

Yes I have the accumulator. My setup is stock

 

[Gribble]

**Update** After more research I learned that i has what is referred to as ghost pedal. If I barely touched my pedal it would go to the floor all by itself however on a normal push of the pedal everything was normal. Also my clutch fluid was very black. After replacing my master cylinder that problem seems to be resolved. Thanks for all the help

 

[spyderdrifter]

Might be a bit late, but here's another video you can check out. I like this one more than the Jack's video.

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