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2G Build list, How does it look?

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awdMcGillTalon

Proven Member
40
0
Sep 13, 2015
Vincennes, Indiana
Hello all,
Working towards my first dsm build. I bought this car from a guy here in Indiana and did not have a good experience with him. He said he car had a lot of things on it which turns out to be not true, but that is neither here nor there. Time to move on. Aftermarket parts currently on the car:
Random ebay turbo, not sure on size or anything. Just says a/r 60 on it.
Front mount intercooler kit (probably ebay)
Catback exhaust
ebay tubular manifold
ebay bov vta

Parts purchased and on the way:
Boost Gauge
AEM Wideband
DSMLink V3
PTE 680cc injectors
3" gm Maf with translator
Wally 190
Hallman Pro MBC

I think that's everything. I would be happy with 300+ awhp, 350 awhp would be a blessing LOL Its just hard to gauge because i know nothing about this turbo. And i haven't had a chance to pull it off and measure the wheels. Please let me know if any of you see anything that I'm missing or could potentially need.
 
That looks good. You've covered the basics. I'll bet you can make 350 with that. When you pull the turbo off, replace the manifold bolts and use anti-seize on them. I'd honestly just get an FP race manifold since they're not outrageously expensive or at least a well ported 2G manifold........ If you're still on a DSM flange. eBay manifolds have a tendency to crack. You'll want an ACT 2100 and FFD or similar with maybe an XACT Streetlite flywheel. You on 93 oct? Throw up a couple pics of the turbo in the car and just the general engine bay. Better yet, make a DSM profile it will be helpful in the future as well for diagnostics and other questions.
 
I just spent like a grand on all those parts, I'm tapped at the moment LOL Wife is not happy. FP manifold will probably be near future mod tho. I'm not sure what clutch/flywheel it has. I'm guessing stock though. And yes 93 oct.
 
I just spent like a grand on all those parts, I'm tapped at the moment LOL Wife is not happy. FP manifold will probably be near future mod tho. I'm not sure what clutch/flywheel it has. I'm guessing stock though. And yes 93 oct.
haha I see the dilemma. You should be good for now though. Get some pictures of this beast up!
 
I'm hoping to get everything installed this weekend. However, my wideband and injectors are still floating around indiana because people can't seem to copy paste a correct address onto a package. It's quite irritating
 
LOL I've seen that a couple times. Definitely irritating. In the meantime check things like all the bellhousing bolts are in. Sometimes people forget about the little one on the back side and that can lead to very very bad things.
 
I will look into that, I've already checked the Head to Manifold bolts, and they don't appear as though they will give much problem. Fingers crossed and a torch should get them i think
 
I will look into that, I've already checked the Head to Manifold bolts, and they don't appear as though they will give much problem. Fingers crossed and a torch should get them i think
There are no bolts from the head to manifold. They are studs and nuts. The bottom center one passes into an oil galley so it must always be installed with a bead of RTV or it will leak. If it starts to twist out you have to re install it with RTV and torque it down.
 
There are no bolts from the head to manifold. They are studs and nuts. The bottom center one passes into an oil galley so it must always be installed with a bead of RTV or it will leak. If it starts to twist out you have to re install it with RTV and torque it down.
I can see how the rtv would help, however, I've never used rtv when replacing with new oem studs and I've never had a leak. I guess it could depend on the condition of the threads in the head or bolts.
 
I can see how the rtv would help, however, I've never used rtv when replacing with new oem studs and I've never had a leak. I guess it could depend on the condition of the threads in the head or bolts.
It's only that one stud that can leak. Most of these cars are not in such great condition and the parts are well worn and used. I'm guessing his car was not meticulously examined top to bottom with any faults it may have so I'm also assuming the studs are not brand new nor have the holes been re-tapped. It's very cheap insurance that you will never have a problem and it takes all of 5 seconds to apply. For me that's worth it every time.
 
Ur gonna need a fuel pressure regulater and if u dot got one a fuel pressure gauge also u go to high on the boost ur trying to pull ur gonna be a mlp head gasket. Happy boosting
 
I'm planning on 19-20 lbs right now, will I need a head gasket for that? And I thought you didn't need an afpr with a 190 pump
Stock gasket is more than adequate. The 190 is regarded as the most you can get away with without an afpr. A 255 is recommended to have one. When putting the VC back on, you dont need a wrench, just a socket and extension. And dont go crazy with the RTV. Only a VERY light cot on there. Again this is not needed but is cheap insurance. Watch this he shows the whole process in detail:
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This is the kit you'll want: http://www.jnztuning.com/product_info.php?name=OEM Valve Cover Gasket Set-DSM&products_id=2724
 
Just wanna make sure I'm correct on this, the arp headstuds will have an allen key hole in the top of them correct? And OEM will just be flat on the top.
 
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