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Broken bolt in turbo oil return line

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TehRiceBandit

Proven Member
317
52
Dec 12, 2013
Bay Area, California
A member on here screwed me over and sold me a turbo with a bolt broken off in one of the oil return line threads..

Can anyone think of any possible solutions? Brought it into a shop, they said he got a hardened bolt extractor stuck in there and it would be expensive (more than the value of the turbo) to drill it out fill it, weld into fill, and retap it.

Thanks in advance
 

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I've fixed those in the past, but if an easy-out's broken in there it's not going to be an easy fix for sure. You can always replace the center housing....but then you'd want at least new journal bearings and sealing rings installed at the same time if the entire turbo's disassembled, which gets expensive quick.

Another solution is to have an AN fitting welded directly to the drain hole, then build a custom oil drain.
 
I've fixed those in the past, but if an easy-out's broken in there it's not going to be an easy fix for sure. You can always replace the center housing....but then you'd want at least new journal bearings and sealing rings installed at the same time if the entire turbo's disassembled, which gets expensive quick.

Another solution is to have an AN fitting welded directly to the drain hole, then build a custom oil drain.

I'll look into having an AN fitting welded in, thanks Justin. This should work right? http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=17629&cat=1809&page=1
 
There's an option for mild steel :thumb:

How well the weld hold up being that it's steel on cast iron?

Good call, I missed the drop down box. If its cast iron, personally, I think it would be hard to weld. They have issues with cracking. If its steel(which it think it is) you will be OK. I would exhaust all possibilities to get the broken piece out. Then again I am on overkill OCD kind of person. Drives my car friends crazy.

Edit: Looks like I am wrong.

Surprisingly, the heart of any turbocharger – the centre housing rotational assembly (or CHRA for short) is still produced from good old cast iron. ‘It’s very good at dissipating heat and it doesn’t distort,

Link

With that said, I would personally try to fix it instead of welding.
 
I would pickup a new center housing an file a PayPal claim for the false advertising of the turbo.
 
I've found that the hardness of ez outs can actually make them easier to remove. Usually a couple good whacks with a punch, and 5lb hammer can shatter the small ones, the pieces can then be removed with a pick.
 
What turbo is it if you don't mind me asking?

It's a small 16g... Was looking at center housings they're all selling for the cost of the turbo.

Unfortunately I'm outside the 45 days for a Paypal claim... Bought it a couple months ago and had it laying around awhile waiting for supporting mods. The member covered the damage with epoxy and I didn't notice it until I went to install it Saturday.. Shitty.
 
I know what new center housings cost...if you paid that much or less for the turbo, there's absolutely NO reason you should feel as though you've been ripped off.

If you want it to be perfect, buy the new center housing and a rebuild kit...mark the alignment of the wheel/shaft/nut, and go to town. If you're looking for a temporary fix, weld the AN fitting on the flange and you're good to go. The housing is cast.

Donnie's statement is true as well, although being that the easy-out is so far off-centered to the bolt hole the housing may NEVER be right. If you go too deep with the drill, you can drill into the water jacket and then you really have problems.
 
Like Jus said a center housing and rebuild kit will run you much less then a good turbo should cost you. It's so easy to rebuild then too. I talked to Jus about buying a 20g ended up selling my 14b flipped a small 16g and now I have a B16g that I built from the ground up. I have 40 dollars in it out of pocket.
 
It almost looks like with a good drill bit you could drill out 95% of the bolt itself and then knock the easy out out with a punch. Just dremel a small dimple in it and knock it out forwards (since easy outs are reversed)

Or like some have said you could put a divot in it and just try to shatter it. I'd say the most obvious option is to drill it out, put a helicoil in there, and then some sort of JB weld in the place previously occupied by the easy out.

Or if all of that sounds like too much work, just buy a new center. That's probably what i'd do anyways.
 
It almost looks like with a good drill bit you could drill out 95% of the bolt itself and then knock the easy out out with a punch. Just dremel a small dimple in it and knock it out forwards (since easy outs are reversed)

Or like some have said you could put a divot in it and just try to shatter it. I'd say the most obvious option is to drill it out, put a helicoil in there, and then some sort of JB weld in the place previously occupied by the easy out.

Or if all of that sounds like too much work, just buy a new center. That's probably what i'd do anyways.

Ended up sending it into Justin, turns out there were more issues with it then just the center housing. The compressor wheel, thrust plate and bearings were worn and the seals were blown. So I'm going to go with a newly built Evo III instead and scrap the small 16g.




Btw I purchased the turbo from
NOREMORSE93

He never responded to me when I tried contacting him. I don't recommend ever doing business with him. I would prefer to leave feedback but I don't have 30 posts yet so.
 
Ended up sending it into Justin, turns out there were more issues with it then just the center housing. The compressor wheel, thrust plate and bearings were worn and the seals were blown. So I'm going to go with a newly built Evo III instead and scrap the small 16g.




Btw I purchased the turbo from
NOREMORSE93

He never responded to me when I tried contacting him. I don't recommend ever doing business with him. I would prefer to leave feedback but I don't have 30 posts yet so.
Well that sucks. Glad you're at least getting one done right though.
 
Ended up sending it into Justin, turns out there were more issues with it then just the center housing. The compressor wheel, thrust plate and bearings were worn and the seals were blown. So I'm going to go with a newly built Evo III instead and scrap the small 16g.
Not scrapped- it will be repaired and put back into circulation. I don't scrap anything unless it's truly unable to be rebuilt/repaired.

Thrust plate was indeed worn, and the turbine sealing ring was leaking as a result. Journal bearings, shaft, and center housing were all clean aside from that broken bolt disaster.
 
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