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BOV leaking at idle

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stock1g4g63

20+ Year Contributor
1,195
1
Jan 2, 2003
(was TX) Anaheim, CA, California
Kick me in the face guys, but during idle, I can FEEL air on my hand coming from my BOV (1st gen)... Now I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to do that.. Also, I get wierd spikes (jumps to 16, drops to 10-11... sometimes down to 8psi, but never stays past 11). This would be more than likely a leaking BOV right? I'm pretty sure the air from it during idle makes that obvious, but I've never checked the BOV during idle before. When I put my hand over the BOV during idle, the RPMs drop a bit... Sorry for the stupid question, just wanted to get some second opinions before I shell out some $ for a type-s.
 
Are you sure it's the BOV and not the flange or vacuum line? Did you do some piping work prior to this?
 
mine leaks also i would like to know what it is. is it like a 3000gt its a bypass valve so it is open at idle and partial throttle.
 
1G BOVs ALL leak at idle, the reason u dont notice it on a stock dsm is because the air never leaves the system with the recirculation tube. To fix it go to Vfaq.com and learn how to crush or modify the 1g bov to hold boost better and not leak at idle.
 
Generation1JeY said:
1G BOVs ALL leak at idle, the reason u dont notice it on a stock dsm is because the air never leaves the system with the recirculation tube. To fix it go to Vfaq.com and learn how to crush or modify the 1g bov to hold boost better and not leak at idle.

the 1g bov holds solid boost til 18psi, so why crush it or modify it? maybe unless u were pushing 20psi and the 1g bov couldnt handle all that boost then you should start preaching on how to crush the 1g bov.

btw, it is the 2g BOVs that leak!
 
Well, I was running 20 evenly (on an 18G) before, and never really had a problem with leaking. When I blew my turbo, I replaced it with a 14b, and have been running it at 16 psi for the past 5-6 months, saving up for an FPGreen, or maybe a PTE T4, but regardless, it just started leaking recently. I tried crushing it, but that seems to not really help much (it'll hold a few more pounds).
 
Generation1JeY said:
I'm talking about leaking at idle buddy, and even so 18psi isnt very much for a serious tuner, by crushing or modifying the 1g bov u can make it maintain vacuum at idle so u can vent it properly without it affecting ur idle making it pulse and bog. Reread my previous post, the entire thing is about bovs leaking at idle, not max boost.

Understand, think, reply. In that exact order.

generation1JeY, you are basically telling everyone using a 1gbov to crush or modify the 1g bov. everyone spread the word, our god has spoken! our 1g bov's leak at idle, so therefore we must crush it! as long as the bov holds boost fine it doesnt matter if it is leaking at idle, unless it gives me a rough idle. just because "all 1g bov's leak" at idle, is it really necessary to crush or modify it even if its holding boost quite fine?
 
BOVs are vacuum-operated devices. Vacuum is highest at coast-down and idle. Unless partially disabled... er, crushed- they'll open at idle. Which is one of the main reasons that venting is bad.

How is any of this complicated to anyone?
 
You know, I could give my normal answer to posts like this and tell you to S-E-A-R-C-H on the cons of venting a 1G BOV, and you will find your reason there. But Im in a pretty good mood, so I'll offer you these kind steps to solving your problem:

1. Grab that tube you yanked off the BOV

2. Connect it back onto the port on the intake pipe

3. Connect the other end of that tube to the BOV (I know its a difficult thing to do, but just put a little elbow grease into it)

The reason why you are leaking air at idle is because the stock 1G BOV is meant to. Kind of like how the stock BOV is meant to recirculate. True by recirculating, it, you cut down the tIoGhT pShShSHSHSshsh sound quite a bit. But would you rather hear that, or have your car run right? There is no point on crushing your 1G BOV either, as you are running under the ideal boost level for a stock uncrushed 1G BOV and should not be venting anyways.
 
thanks for the help. I didn't know that it was because I was venting (since I've been venting for a while now, it it just recently started doing this boost spiking/dropping thing).
 
erc's_gsx said:
generation1JeY, you are basically telling everyone using a 1gbov to crush or modify the 1g bov. everyone spread the word, our god has spoken! our 1g bov's leak at idle, so therefore we must crush it! as long as the bov holds boost fine it doesnt matter if it is leaking at idle, unless it gives me a rough idle. just because "all 1g bov's leak" at idle, is it really necessary to crush or modify it even if its holding boost quite fine?

Do u honestly not understand what i'm saying? I am saying that if YOU MUST vent ur 1g bov, the correct way to do it is the MODIFY IT IN ANY WAY TO NOT LEAK AT IDLE. You obviously don't understand the concept of a recirculation tube, when the air leaks from the bov and gets recirculated back into the intake the air never leaves the system, hence it doesnt affect ur idle or anything like that, but when u take the tube off, and the bov leaks at idle WHICH ALL 1G BOVs DO, the air that is in the intake system completely leaves the engine which gives u a vacuum leak instead of just being re-routed back into the beginning of the intake.

I dont really understand why ur getting hung up on the entire concept of crushing the bov, the only reason i'm suggesting that is so he can vent his bov without affecting his idle. I'm not talking about max boosting or anything i'm talking about his bov leaking at idle, which is infact the title of this thread.
 
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