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1G BoostinPerformance 1/2 head stud kits install

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SasaniFab

Proven Member
2,433
782
Dec 1, 2013
Mexico, Connecticut
I am aware that the block needs to be drilled out and tapped for the change in diameter. Are guys running a 1/2 time cert in the block or just tapping the block to 1/2? Going the time cert route requires a hole larger than 1/2. I noticed that time cert offers a kit for subaru guys to help with the install. Would it be possible for Boostin to put a kit together in a similar fashion? Maybe some form of guide plate and insert with the bit and tap as a kit? Just a thought. How are you guys doing this at home.
 
Why in the world would a 1/2" stud kit be necessary? How many people are having issues with L19's?
I wouldn't say needed but I'd be interested to see how a larger stud could increase head/deck rigidity. Under high boost the head/deck and cylinders flex and distort. I guess what I'm saying is if the studs cost about the same and COULD be installed at home with some kind of kit simply and were proven to be a huge improvement. Would you do it?
 
There is no proof of improvement. The larger stud would only add additional holding force. It will not increase cylinder head rigidity. The washer diameter that is providing the surface clamp load is exactly the same. Stick to standard L19s.
 
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Guys went 8's with basic arp's, coolant in the block, and just an HKS head gasket. Why are you trying to reinvent the wheel for a 10sec car?

Anyway you need to install the 1/2 studs before you bore/hone.
I don't plan on running them as it's like you said pointless, my car will be 10-9s max for the time being. It's just part of building I enjoy testing and trying new things, I find it fascinating. My real question was how guys who use them install them. Are they boring out the iron and installing timecerts or just re threading the block. I'd assume you only have to drill and thread the block as the block is iron.
 
There is no proof of improvement. The larger stud would only add additional holding force. It will not increase cylinder head rigidity. The washer diameter that is providing the surface clamp load is exactly the same. Stick to standard L19s.
Ahh, I wasn't aware of that. I'm curious then at what point does a guy need to consider this modification. Half filled block and 70psi
 
There's not enough meat on the 6 bolts to do it without machining and adding the time sert I believe. The 7 bolt crowd was just tapping the block for a while testing 1/2"studs but I think they started cracking blocks from the stress.
 
I rocked on regular arp s with my 7 bolt @ 44 psi for 3 years with no problems eventually my eagle rods give up and bend .
I was just curious, as ive "grown" so to speak with the 4g63 and this platform im pretty confident most issues with headgasket failures are do to either way to much timing or severe detonation due to running lean. As ive said in the past my motor survived almost 24 degrees of timing at peak running meth injection. At the time I didnt understand what "peak" timing meant. Initially I thought it was what you chose to run at the highest point in the table, not your peak torque or load. Going through some of the threads I noticed the thread about curt making 600+ on 93 octane running 0* peak , this is says it all to me.....
 
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