2G blue wire mod

[Bender]

You can just email me at [email protected] and I can send you a wiring schematic I made to activate full line pressure at WOT only.

 

[knochgoon24]

I still haven't installed it. The shift kit alone was enough for me right now. It works testing it on a bench, but I haven't gone any further than that.

 

[1995gsx20g]

alright cool. ill throw you an email when i get the funds to make the switch to auto.

knochgoon24- i like the idea but if its only a few wires and resistors you cant beat the simplicity. which is the hole reason im switching to an auto. one less thing to worry about or mess up.

ill be lingering on the auto threads from now on tho.

 

[92AWDTalonTSI]

Ok, with the TCU completely removed. How would I lower the line pressure? I like how it shifts hard under full throttle but I want to be able to tone it down a bit with either the Pwr/Eco mode switch or at full throttle. Could I get a circuit for that?

 

[thiazole]

You want it to shift softer at full throttle?

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

Ok, with the TCU completely removed. How would I lower the line pressure? I like how it shifts hard under full throttle but I want to be able to tone it down a bit with either the Pwr/Eco mode switch or at full throttle. Could I get a circuit for that?

You will have to figure out the frequency of the PW modulation on the PCS and emulate this using some sort of PWM driver. Only one person I know of has successfully done this, and good luck getting the info out of him.

With some creativity you could rig up a TCU to do nothing but control line pressure if you really wanted to.

 

[92AWDTalonTSI]

That's what I'm aiming for. I'll build everything into an empty TCU case. That way I can use Molex connectors right on the back side of the case for easy center console access. I'm going to assume that I could mess around with 100hz. I'll do that first with a 555 timer. Then maybe four separate pot adjustable MESFET circuits per gear controlling PW based on TP. Assuming still that that is how the TCU does it in the stock environment. Right now it's just in my head.

So I'll have a box that I can manually shift but automatically control line pressure. Then at a predetermined attribute enable full line pressure. I could also tap into the Tach and input/output speed sensors and use a BASIC program control gears automatically. But that is a long time from now. Could possibly use an Arduino to control everything.

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

That's what I'm aiming for. I'll build everything into an empty TCU case. That way I can use Molex connectors right on the back side of the case for easy center console access. I'm going to assume that I could mess around with 100hz. I'll do that first with a 555 timer. Then maybe four separate pot adjustable MESFET circuits per gear controlling PW based on TP. Assuming still that that is how the TCU does it in the stock environment. Right now it's just in my head.

So I'll have a box that I can manually shift but automatically control line pressure. Then at a predetermined attribute enable full line pressure. I could also tap into the Tach and input/output speed sensors and use a BASIC program control gears automatically. But that is a long time from now. Could possibly use an Arduino to control everything.

Sounds like you want a TCUGO

gear vs throttle is indeed how the TCU looks up line pressure.

 

[92AWDTalonTSI]

TCUGO is exactly what it did right? They are no longer able to be found.

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

TCUGO is exactly what it did right? They are no longer able to be found.

Correct. Hugo stopped making them a long time ago because the profit was not worth the time/cost of production. That is also why you don't see any similar product development. For every 100-150 people that want something only 1 is a buyer.

 

[transdude]

For every 100-150 people that want something only 1 is a buyer.

I've seen some of this

-John

IPT Performance Transmissions
IPT on Facebook

 

[definitiveno]

I have been putting my car back together, just converted the car to E85 and wanting to run an HTAgt35r at 30+ psi. High PSI and I have talked about doing a reflash but I was thinking the blue wire mod with relay might be appropriate as well. I don't know exaclt what kind of power the car is going to put out but some of the manual cars have been able to put out close to 650 at the wheels. Just want to make sure I have done every thing I can to make sure my car runs for as long as it can.

Using the relay and nitrous switch from dsmlink v3, could I select which TPS position the relay activated? I was thinking the reflash could give me full line pressure from about 50-60% throttle and the relay could give me EXTRA pressure on top of that from 75-85% throttle. If any one has some suggestions on this please, I would love to hear what you would have to say on the matter.

My car will be a street car so the proggressive increase of line pressure is more desireable than full line pressure all the time....

 

[Bender]

Once you activate full line pressure electronically, that is all you get. You won't get extra pressure by doing the relay method, in fact, the relay "disconnects" the TCU's PCRS output while it is activated, which is why the resistor is needed (to keep the TCU from going into limp mode.) The only way to get more line pressure is to turn the adjustment screw in the valvebody. If memory serves me correct, it is 5 psi for each full turn.

You won't see those dyno numbers whp wise on an auto. The auto reads (on average) 15% lower on a dyno than their 5 speed counterparts, and this is taken from people swapping from 5 speeds to autos, with no other changes.

If you want progressive line pressure control, David's TCU or IPT's booster are the only ways to go. Well, without reinventing the wheel. I have tossed around a standalone PWM controller, but my car is so harsh driving as it is, it wouldn't make a difference.

 

[definitiveno]

Once you activate full line pressure electronically, that is all you get. You won't get extra pressure by doing the relay method, in fact, the relay "disconnects" the TCU's PCRS output while it is activated, which is why the resistor is needed (to keep the TCU from going into limp mode.) The only way to get more line pressure is to turn the adjustment screw in the valvebody. If memory serves me correct, it is 5 psi for each full turn.

You won't see those dyno numbers whp wise on an auto. The auto reads (on average) 15% lower on a dyno than their 5 speed counterparts, and this is taken from people swapping from 5 speeds to autos, with no other changes.

If you want progressive line pressure control, David's TCU or IPT's booster are the only ways to go. Well, without reinventing the wheel. I have tossed around a standalone PWM controller, but my car is so harsh driving as it is, it wouldn't make a difference.

Well, if i would be able to control my line pressure with a flash from High PSI, would that alone be "safe" to run at my output? I realize I will not get that wheel HP btw, just using it as a reference point ....

What would the advantage be of going to davids TCU (who is david?) or IPT's booster? If I can have High PSI write code to give me full line pressure at whatever throttle position I want, where is the advantage of the other devices?

 

[Bender]

L O L

Dave is HighPSI TSi Guy's real name.

Full line pressure should be enough, and a shift kid would definitely help. A stock auto transmission with these 2 mods has been proven to be enough to get into the 9's.

The advantage of going with IPT's device is you can control your line pressure with a knob. The advantage of going with Davids is he can set your line pressure to be at different levels depending on your throttle position sensor and RPM. In other words, it will automatically enable full line pressure at WOT, but keep stock line pressure just cruising around. Also, getting the eprom reprogrammed in the TCU allows the car to shift at whatever RPM you want, something that would be desired for midsize turbos like the 35r, which shine at higher RPM's.

 

[definitiveno]

I have a fresh rebuild on the trans, IPT's clutches, IPT's end cluth kit, translab shift kit, IPT's billit 9 inch stalled at 4200 (however it only goes to 3500 rpm and 6-7 PSI before the brakes give out) as well as a larger trans cooler.....


The guy that has been working on my car (eclipsegsx1736 on the forums, let me take a second and brag on this guy and say he's been the biggest help in getting my project nearly completed while I am deployed in Iraq) and he has expressed some concearn about the strength of the shifts whether it's from being unfamiliar with Auto cars or whether it is genuinely slipping at 23 psi on pump gas but we are about to start tuning E85 to 30+ psi and want to make sure we have all of our bases covered on the trans. Like I said the car is a street car first but if I ever get orders to Germany this car might see some Ring time and I'd like to have confidence that my trans will hold up to extended abuse (not just quarter mile passes)......


Thanks for your quick responses BTW Bender.....

 

[Bender]

No problem. I am hardly ever on this forum, but got bored today and decided to check my discussions. Glad I did.

Sounds like you have no provisions for extra line pressure, and I can almost guarantee you it is slipping at WOT shifts. My advice? Don't drive the car until you address that issue. You will burn your new clutch packs out fairly quickly above 400hp (my benchmark number I recommend to people. I believe Dave's is in that area as well).

What size tranny cooler are you running? If not, get one asap as well with a temp gauge. Those are the first things I recommend when people ask me what they can do to "build" their trans up. After that it is a stalled converter, shift kit/line pressure, and an aftermarket end clutch assembly. Sounds like you have most of that covered. Did IPT build the trans? If so, they put their own shift kit in (they have custom springs wound for them).

 

[definitiveno]

No problem. I am hardly ever on this forum, but got bored today and decided to check my discussions. Glad I did.

Sounds like you have no provisions for extra line pressure, and I can almost guarantee you it is slipping at WOT shifts. My advice? Don't drive the car until you address that issue. You will burn your new clutch packs out fairly quickly above 400hp (my benchmark number I recommend to people. I believe Dave's is in that area as well).

What size tranny cooler are you running? If not, get one asap as well with a temp gauge. Those are the first things I recommend when people ask me what they can do to "build" their trans up. After that it is a stalled converter, shift kit/line pressure, and an aftermarket end clutch assembly. Sounds like you have most of that covered. Did IPT build the trans? If so, they put their own shift kit in (they have custom springs wound for them).

Aftermarket cooler is installed (I go back and forward about adding an additional one(s)) and temp guage is installed also. Negative on IPT assembling my trans. I just bought parts from him and had a local builder do it. Now that you know a little bit more about my car what provissions for line pressure would you recomend?


Also, I figured it would have been good at 100% throttle since the TCU asks for 100% line pressure at the much throttle. I figured it was in most of the part throttle driving conditions (say 75% throttle) where the tcu wasn't asking for full line pressure is where it would slip. Unless there are provisions that give MORE than 100% line pressure but I thought you said there wasn't any thing that did that. I'm back to being a little bit confused, .



What I thought the blue wire mod did was intercept the pressure signal coming from the transmission and make it appear less than the actual in effect "overclocking" the pump, giving you more line pressure than the factory output would allow. Did that make sense? So I thought Dave was controling when the vehicle will provide it's factory line pressure of 100% and then the blue wire mod was then tricking the pump into outputting even more pressure on top of that.

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

The factory TCU with factory code never demands 100% line pressure. I'd have to double check but I don't believe it goes much over 50% ever.

 

[definitiveno]

The factory TCU with factory code never demands 100% line pressure. I'd have to double check but I don't believe it goes much over 50% ever.

a terrible assumption on my part. Thank you for the clarification....

 

[Bender]

Most pressure the transmission will see from the tcu is about 125-130psi. I believe with full line pressure unlocked you get close to 300 (will need to verify with pressure gauge, and of course, the adjustment screw will change this as well). That leads me to think that 50% is being conservative on what the TCU gives it. Maybe Dave can chime in more, but I believe the TCU controls both voltage and pulse going to the solenoid. The higher the voltage (0-12v), and the longer the pulse width, the LESS pressure you get.

If you are concerned about part throttle line pressure, you can turn your adjustment screw up, or Dave can change the pulsewidth based on TPS so can basically do what ever you would like. Full line pressure at 50% throttle, or even a gradient taper as TPS increases. You will have to see if it will be the same price as his basic chip though. I'm not sure if he writes his chips by code, or made a GUI for it.

What you said makes since, but it isn't how it works. Instead of intercepting a pressure sensor, you are intercepting the pressure relief valve, and keeping it from getting voltage so it stays closed. The TCU controls the pressure by looking at a table (like a timing or A/F table) that has TPS and transfer drive gear rpm (picked up by your pulse generators) as its axis.

 

[definitiveno]

Dave can change the pulsewidth based on TPS so can basically do what ever you would like. Full line pressure at 50% throttle, or even a gradient taper as TPS increases.

Dave? Is this some thing you can write? 40% line pressure for every thing under 40% throttle, 70% line pressure for throttle between 41% and 70% and then 100% line pressure for every thing over 71% throttle?

I am just giving some rough ideas, let me kno what you can do and how many different points of TPS/Line pressure references you can write in....

 

[Bender]

Try this instead, [email protected]

 

[transdude]

I think that there is a misunderstanding on how line pressure is controlled in these transmissions.

Pressure is at a fixed value, based on the gear that is selected. This is mechanically regulated in the valve body. Essentially, we always have what can be described as "full pressure".

During the shift, pressure is momentarily reduced by the solenoid and valve body to provide a smoother shift. This is known as "reducing pressure"

Most transmissions do not work this way, they tend to proportionately alter pressure based on throttle opening and load.

In any case, we have found it sufficient to alter the signal to the pressure control solenoid across the board in some applications and through a driver selectable interface which will work in all applications.

-John

IPT Performance Transmissions
IPT on Facebook

 

[definitiveno]

Try this instead, [email protected]

I have his email. For the next guy that comes along though wondering this crap, he can reference some of the info in here.

I think that there is a misunderstanding on how

Haha, yeah. I think it's well established at this point that I don't know what the #### is going on.