2G blue wire mod

[toofast82]

That will work with the 2g as well.

Don't really see why it wouldn't on a 2g as long as you have the right wires. I used the power/eco switch on the 1g, but you'd have to use an alternate switch on 2g. Its worth a try at least.

 

[knochgoon24]

The resistors they use are in the control box they sell not in the valve body. Yes they use 3 of them for varying degrees of resistance. I guess it works, but that depends on your definition of "works". Even with that you still need something to send the original pulsed signal.

Ah. Ok. I was looking at wiring up a little thing to adjust shift pressure like that, for the time being. But I think I was wrong last night. 10ohm is just enough to make the TCU happy, it's not like that signal makes it to the tranny.

So I'd need a potentiometer that goes from 0ohm (most will) up to ??? I'd have to experiment.

The downside is that it applies that resistance (and increased pressure) to upshifts and downshifts.

 

[Bender]

A relay may be best used wired into an ems or dsmlink to only activate at WOT may be your best bet. If you are using a stock system, you can use a WOT switch from a nitrous system.

You may also want to look into getting a new eprom chipped burn. Contact Dave (HighPSI TSi Guy) directly as he is the one that does that.

Even then, the relay isn't a bad idea to help save the TCU. After extended use with mine, one of my capacitors burned out. I haven't followed the layout, but I am GUESSING it is part of the line pressure control circuit, and got burned out from "overclocking" (for lack of a better term) it.

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

A relay may be best used wired into an ems or dsmlink to only activate at WOT may be your best bet. If you are using a stock system, you can use a WOT switch from a nitrous system.

You may also want to look into getting a new eprom chipped burn. Contact Dave (HighPSI TSi Guy) directly as he is the one that does that.

Even then, the relay isn't a bad idea to help save the TCU. After extended use with mine, one of my capacitors burned out. I haven't followed the layout, but I am GUESSING it is part of the line pressure control circuit, and got burned out from "overclocking" (for lack of a better term) it.

Did you previously replace the capacitor? I'd be interested to see what the real cause was, as I have yet to hear of anyone else having any issues, and I really don't see how the code change would cause any increased wear or heat. If anything it should be EASIER on the TCU, and here is why. The PCS is PWM with higher PW being less pressure. So the modulation is more rapid, and most active, during normal driving. That is when there will be the most heat in the electronics, when the modulation rate is high. When the duty cycle goes down, it reduces modulation and thus reduces the amount of heat created. If there was any failure due to changing PCS behavior I would guess the resistor or driver would burn from too much heat running the PW too high for too long, which is the opposite of what we're doing with the TCU code change. Due to the function of the capacitor I don't see how it could be related. Just bad luck maybe, or the wrong capacitor used to replace the original.

 

[knochgoon24]

A relay may be best used wired into an ems or dsmlink to only activate at WOT may be your best bet. If you are using a stock system, you can use a WOT switch from a nitrous system.

You may also want to look into getting a new eprom chipped burn. Contact Dave (HighPSI TSi Guy) directly as he is the one that does that.

Even then, the relay isn't a bad idea to help save the TCU. After extended use with mine, one of my capacitors burned out. I haven't followed the layout, but I am GUESSING it is part of the line pressure control circuit, and got burned out from "overclocking" (for lack of a better term) it.

I'm running and Evo 8 ECU. I have several outputs that I can control based on load or TPS.

I was going more for a design/function like the IPT Pressure Controller.

 

[Bender]

Did you previously replace the capacitor? I'd be interested to see what the real cause was, as I have yet to hear of anyone else having any issues, and I really don't see how the code change would cause any increased wear or heat. If anything it should be EASIER on the TCU, and here is why. The PCS is PWM with higher PW being less pressure. So the modulation is more rapid, and most active, during normal driving. That is when there will be the most heat in the electronics, when the modulation rate is high. When the duty cycle goes down, it reduces modulation and thus reduces the amount of heat created. If there was any failure due to changing PCS behavior I would guess the resistor or driver would burn from too much heat running the PW too high for too long, which is the opposite of what we're doing with the TCU code change. Due to the function of the capacitor I don't see how it could be related. Just bad luck maybe, or the wrong capacitor used to replace the original.

No they weren't previously replaced. I don't think the wrong ones were put in, since it was your friend that did it. I sent you one to socket, and it worked for about a 10 hours worth of hard running, then it started slipping. I put in another TCU, and the slipping went away. When I popped the cover on the one that was socketed, I noticed the cap was leaking. I then sent it to you, as well as another one I had laying around, and you had the guy that does your sockets replace the caps in both of them, as well as socket the other one. When I got them back, the one that was first socketed just through a trouble code when it was installed, and the car as stuck in limp mode. I then put in the other tcu that was just socketed, and it didn't even power up. I couldn't even get it to throw a trouble code. This was with both: your burned chip, as well as the factory eprom.

I then put in another TCU that I had laying around, that was untouched, and the car ran great. I just upped the pressure by the valvebody screw, and called it a day.


Back to the resistor discussion, if you look at their line booster, it is only a 2-wire design. An input/output, and a potentiometer to "control" the line pressure. The solenoid doesn't get a factory signal reference. Also, their resistors on their valvebody are inline with the harness. They wrap them up. I believe that is why the whole harness is tucked under the valvebody on the pictures of them on their site. When I got my IPT Trans, I noticed it inline with the connector, and dug around to see what it was. Ty told me they "modify" thins to raise line pressure. I am assuming they port the valvebody slightly, install a shift kit, turn in the adjustment screw a revolution or so, and add those resistors inline. I have a firm kick when I shift at part throttle because of it, and I know the difference between shift kit firmness and line pressure firmness.

Also, knochgoon24, you mean something like this?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

No they weren't previously replaced. I don't think the wrong ones were put in, since it was your friend that did it. I sent you one to socket, and it worked for about a 10 hours worth of hard running, then it started slipping. I put in another TCU, and the slipping went away. When I popped the cover on the one that was socketed, I noticed the cap was leaking. I then sent it to you, as well as another one I had laying around, and you had the guy that does your sockets replace the caps in both of them, as well as socket the other one. When I got them back, the one that was first socketed just through a trouble code when it was installed, and the car as stuck in limp mode. I then put in the other tcu that was just socketed, and it didn't even power up. I couldn't even get it to throw a trouble code. This was with both: your burned chip, as well as the factory eprom.

I then put in another TCU that I had laying around, that was untouched, and the car ran great. I just upped the pressure by the valvebody screw, and called it a day.


Back to the resistor discussion, if you look at their line booster, it is only a 2-wire design. An input/output, and a potentiometer to "control" the line pressure. The solenoid doesn't get a factory signal reference. Also, their resistors on their valvebody are inline with the harness. They wrap them up. I believe that is why the whole harness is tucked under the valvebody on the pictures of them on their site. When I got my IPT Trans, I noticed it inline with the connector, and dug around to see what it was. Ty told me they "modify" thins to raise line pressure. I am assuming they port the valvebody slightly, install a shift kit, turn in the adjustment screw a revolution or so, and add those resistors inline. I have a firm kick when I shift at part throttle because of it, and I know the difference between shift kit firmness and line pressure firmness.

Also, knochgoon24, you mean something like this?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

That's really odd, I've done plenty of 2G chips and you're the only one to report any problems. Almost makes me wonder if josh got a bad batch of capacitors or something.

Unless they've changed the design, the IPT "boost controller" uses a multi way switch not a potentiometer, it has 3 resistors and the switch changes how the signal passes through to vary resistence.

The box you have pictured on the lower pics, is that the supra shift box? that thing is pretty nice, I was going to try one of those a long time ago but never got around to it.

 

[Bender]

That may be where the confusion is coming from. I am talking about 1g TCU's.

As for the shift box, it is a dsm one. It is faint, but you can read GSX on the second picture. However, it is not mine. It came up in a discussion on the AEM Forums. There has been progress made to making a box like that, however. Again, not by me, but the guy that built my transmission code readers.

As about IPT, we may have two different designs in mind, which is causing the confusion. This is the one I am talking about.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You can note it just wires "inline" to the solenoid. The solenoid only gets the modified signal, and not a factory one for reference.

Similar thing included in their valvebodies, only instead of a variable resistor, it is just enough resistors to pull the current enough to raise line pressure.

Also, I have been meaning to ask you, but never got around to it... mind if I put a link to your site from mine? I have gotten a few emails requesting more information on the eprom tcu's, and if I did the service. It seems best to me to do a quick FAQ sheet on it so there won't be any redundant questions , then a link to your site so they can place their order if they decide that is what they want to do.

We can discuss this in email or pm if you wish: [email protected]

Also, can you believe what Chris is doing to his car!? It's depressing.

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

Ok I guess I'm confused trying to remember which TCUs were yours. I remember working on yours and all I just couldn't remember 1G or 2G off the top of my head and your profile said you had a 2G so I assumed that's what it was. If 1Gs were what you had problems with, that's even more strange, as I've done way more of the 1Gs even than 2Gs

Yea that is the box I'm thinking of. It has 3 resistors on the inside, and a rotary switch. The rotary switch just switches the path the signal takes. Depending on the position of the switch, it runs the signal through the resistors differently to change the resistance in the signal, and delivers the modified signal on the output.

I've never noticed them putting resistors in the actual harness inside the trans, but i guess I was never really looking for them when I've taken apart "IPT" valve bodies.

That shift box with the LCD looks a lot like one that is made for supras called I want to say SSV4 or something along those lines.

Yea you can link to my site I don't mind at all. Yeah I think Chris is a dummy for parting out his car. I could see if he was getting rid of the thing but he's keeping the shell to rebuild later, doesn't make any sense to me. Oh well. I stopped trying to make sense of most things he does a long time ago, haha.

 

[knochgoon24]

Back to the resistor discussion, if you look at their line booster, it is only a 2-wire design. An input/output, and a potentiometer to "control" the line pressure...

Also, knochgoon24, you mean something like this?

I can do basic analogue circuits. That's beyond my current knowledge. I'm studying aerospace engineering in college. My roommate is the computer engineer. Sadly, he has no interest in helping me with projects.

Since I don't know what resistance I'd need to get the levels I'd like, I'd need to use a pot at first to determine the values. Later, I could use a multimeter and find the resistance of a few of my favorite settings and solder some resistors onto a board.

I have had ideas of making a more complex system, but doing it with analogue circuits and incorporating the push-button shifting makes the project go over my head. I taught myself how to use CMOS chips while in middle school so I could make a small battery powered amp for some computer speakers. If I can't do it with the most basic of CMOS chips, I can't do it.

 

[Bender]

I probably should have mentioned it was for a 1g earlier, but it made since in my head, so I didn't bother explaining it. The 2g is my car, and the 1g is my dad's. I don't believe we have ever spoken through email before, as he is the one that had contacted you about it.. since.. well.. it's not my car. I just told him about what you do when he asked me how he could raise his shift points without going to a manual shift-box.

That line booster may be where I got told 3 resistors, this was a few years ago, and don't really remember all the minor details. I never really thought about them using a rotary switch, and figured it was a potentiometer. I just remembered something about adding in 1 resistor for a slight increase, or 3 for full on race. However, it still shows that it is just mounted inline. If I get time, I may unwrap my IPT VB harness and see what the inline module contains.

 

[TurboDSM90]

On a 1G is the line pressure solenoid controlled in an "on/off" fashion? Reason I ask is because I am doing the kiggly hardwire setup for my car. I am still going to drive it on the streets and wanted to keep the line pressure low while cruising, and with the flick of a switch do to full line pressure.

Does the solenoid just open with 12v? Say, cruising have 12v go to the solenoid and maybe even have the link run a relay for this.

 

[Bender]

It is a 5v circuit if IIRC. You will need to pull it down, or tap it into your sensor power from your ECU. This extra load may require TPS scaling. I haven't messed with it yet.

http://www.kigglyracing.com/tech/auto_shifter_wiring.htm

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

On a 1G is the line pressure solenoid controlled in an "on/off" fashion? Reason I ask is because I am doing the kiggly hardwire setup for my car. I am still going to drive it on the streets and wanted to keep the line pressure low while cruising, and with the flick of a switch do to full line pressure.

Does the solenoid just open with 12v? Say, cruising have 12v go to the solenoid and maybe even have the link run a relay for this.

It is a pulsewidth modulated solenoid. If you turned it straight on, you'd have no pressure and toast the trans. It has to be modulated by some sort of controller (i.e. TCU). It is 12v powered.

 

[Bender]

Couldn't remember. It is the shift solenoids that are on a 5v circuit then.

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

Couldn't remember. It is the shift solenoids that are on a 5v circuit then.

All the solenoids are 12v. sensors are 5v, solenoids are 12v. Pretty much entire car is that way. MAF uses 12v and 5v.

 

[Bender]

Oh. Maybe I was thinking of the pulse generators then. haha. I haven't touched tranny wiring in about 2 years. .

Ok, I just looked up all the factory specs.

TCC solenoid is 1-3 volts when active, and 0 volts when off.

Shift solenoid a is 12v.

Shift solenoid b is 12v.

The pulse generators have a minimum of 1.5 AC volts.

I do not know why I was thinking they were only 5 volts. It may have been I was looking for a 5v referenced relay trigger to automatically turn full line pressure on at full throttle when the TPS puts out 5 volts.

As I said, it's been some time since I have worked on the system.

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

Oh. Maybe I was thinking of the pulse generators then. haha. I haven't touched tranny wiring in about 2 years. .

Ok, I just looked up all the factory specs.

TCC solenoid is 1-3 volts when active, and 0 volts when off.

Shift solenoid a is 12v.

Shift solenoid b is 12v.

The pulse generators have a minimum of 1.5 AC volts.

I do not know why I was thinking they were only 5 volts. It may have been I was looking for a 5v referenced relay trigger to automatically turn full line pressure on at full throttle when the TPS puts out 5 volts.

As I said, it's been some time since I have worked on the system.

Good luck finding a 5v triggered relay. I had that same problem once, I forget what I was trying to do. It was a bi*** but I ended up using 12v relays and 12v triggers to control a 5v signal.

 

[Bender]

Lol. That is why I stopped working on it. The design will still work, only an EMS will need to control it now... and most people that invest in an EMS will just invest in a shiftbox.

 

[forcefed86]

All this talk of autos almost makes me sad I went with the manual! Suppose I'll trash this one eventually.

Assuming one were doing the "blue wire mod" wouldn't hooking it up to a boost switch be a lot easier? This way it would not effect cruise conditions or deceleration? One could even set it to activate at higher boost levels. This way when the engine is making high hp the extra pressure would be there. This would also limit the amount of time it is being triggered if capacitor heat is an issue.

Just a thought! I'm sure a chip is the way to go.

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

All this talk of autos almost makes me sad I went with the manual! Suppose I'll trash this one eventually.

Assuming one were doing the "blue wire mod" wouldn't hooking it up to a boost switch be a lot easier? This way it would not effect cruise conditions or deceleration? One could even set it to activate at higher boost levels. This way when the engine is making high hp the extra pressure would be there. This would also limit the amount of time it is being triggered if capacitor heat is an issue.

Just a thought! I'm sure a chip is the way to go.

yep. I had built a few boxes to do that for people before I had the chip stuff figured out. oil pressure switch is a good cheap boost switch.

 

[Bender]

Chip is the best for a street car.. for a drag car an EMS controlled shiftbox. No need to change the chip or run an ostrich cable.. just type in your new shift point. However, you lose normal shift patterns, where a TCU will allow for both.

 

[knochgoon24]

So. I was thinking a bit more about this.

The 2g has a closed TPS switch. When it's closed, it completes a 5v circuit, correct?
Since I've swapped to an Evo 8 Ecu, the closed TPS switch is unused. I was thinking that I could use it to trip a 5volt relay that bypasses the resistance of a potentiometer.

Basically, it would apply a set pressure increase while you're on the throttle, but when you let off it will shift with normal pressure as you come to a stop. So I would have a basic pressure booster for all of $10 in parts from Radioshack.

 

[knochgoon24]

Good luck finding a 5v triggered relay. I had that same problem once, I forget what I was trying to do. It was a bi*** but I ended up using 12v relays and 12v triggers to control a 5v signal.

Radioshack sells them. $2.99

So. I was thinking a bit more about this.

The 2g has a closed TPS switch. When it's closed, it completes a 5v circuit, correct?
Since I've swapped to an Evo 8 Ecu, the closed TPS switch is unused. I was thinking that I could use it to trip a 5volt relay that bypasses the resistance of a potentiometer.

Basically, it would apply a set pressure increase while you're on the throttle, but when you let off it will shift with normal pressure as you come to a stop. So I would have a basic pressure booster for all of $10 in parts from Radioshack.

I got it all wired up today.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

It took $15 in parts. The idle switch closes a 5v circuit. +5v is provided by the ECU through the switch. When you close the throttle, it grounds the circuit. So all I have to do it connect a 5v source and let the switch ground it out. That activates a relay which bypasses the pot that is setup to drop the voltage on the pressure solenoid. Lower voltage=higher latency. The solenoid will act slower so it will increase pressure.

I have 5 wires that I need to connect.
+5v
ground
idle switch
and the 2 that get spliced inline with the "blue wire"

Hopefully I'll get it installed soon. I need the weather to clear up since I don't have a garage to work in.

 

[1995gsx20g]

knochgoon24 any word on the radio shack savior?
i have decided to ditch the manual and it would be real nice if i can use that as a stepping stone until i can afford a shift box.