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IV started to undergo major work on the laser the paint has been stripped and I shaved and seam welded the entire engine bay wish I would have keep a better log of the work IV done but I guess now is better then never
 
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Working on a coolant neck at the moment this will do till I can get the engine in and running then I’ll be building a swirl pot
 

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My engine at the moment kinda going for the iron man look it’s the same 1g rod 2 g piston engine I built over 4 years ago with less than 10k miles because I destroyed my tranny when the stock clutch Shot through the housing I was pushing 400hp on a 20g
 

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How the engine bay looks right now except for the clutch master and stainless line hopefully as soon as I get a new oil pan in I’ll be able to install the engine into the car and start on the harness hopefully I rebuilt it correctly
 

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I’ll be making a fuel surge tank soon with a walbro 255 in the tank feeding into a 2 gallon surge tank with a single 450 also fabricating a QSV using an hx55 flange and some inconel rod
 

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I really wish I could remember everything done to the dsm but I’ll be posting more about the build when I remember more at the moment I’ll start with the fuel system and my plans

what I have
Stock tank and feed lines up to a 10an fuel labs. Fuel filter with the 10 micron SS FILTER.
I’ll be using earls forged AN fittings on the entire build from fuel lines to coolant lines and fittings

what I’m building
I plan on feeding from my stock fuel hanger that has a walbro 255 in the tank to a larger surge tank. I will have an 8 an feed on the stock hanger that runs to the top of the surge tank and has a stainless tube running to the bottom of it with a check valve so to try and keep any air out of the tank and fuel from going back into the 1st pump. I’ll be feeding the engine bay with a 10an Line (overkill I know) but I never want to have to run new lines again even if I go rwd turbo LS in the future. it will be going into the fuel labs fuel filter that I mounted above the brake booster. Next, is my custom aem fuel rail I had machined open to 5/8 and I welded 2 10an bungs onto it. I have new FIC 2150 high Z injectors that I just installed onto the engine. after the fuel labs adjustable fuel pressure regulator followed by an ethanol sensor I will reducing down to 8an line. It’s 8an all the way back to the surge tank that will return at the bottom. Hopefully the idea is even under WOT the return from the rail and the feed from the 255 will keep enough fuel in the surge tank and feeding the 450 that I won’t have any air problems while turning so if your keeping count that’s 3 an fittings lastly at the top will be another 8an return to the stock fuel tank that way the surge tank is constantly full and any air will be pushed out the top and into the stock tank.
 
Let’s talk about the suspension

considering I’m building this car for a street/track car for here at the tooele motor sports track I I really wanted a lot more adjustability in the system IV read a lot about different fixes for different problems these cars have most of them seem like bandaids for a system that wasn’t designed to handle what we ask of it. So I reached out to stack house fab to see if he couldn’t build me a front I member with fully adjustable control arms what the man cam up with was this

I haven’t had the opportunity to test it out yet sadly but the bolt in process was on point no major issues or holes that where off with that being said the only issues I ran into was I didn’t have the brackets to mount my steering rack which I’ll get in to that mess later all I have to say is never use Eaton MotorWorks thier quality is shit and I used them to try and make it easier for myself since I didn’t have the welder working at the time plus warranty so why not

I digress now that I have a set of fully adjustable control arms and a light wieght k member I need to snag up some feal coilovers and then fab up my rear end I know some of you may be asking if it’s a road race car why don’t I have a front sway bar well stay tuned I’ll be building a torsion bar to replace the old beefy boi
 

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Nice build! You have a 6 bolt, correct? Where did you get that oil pan gasket?
It’s a prototype I got from a guy off of face book by the name of Anthony it’s still in the trial stages but IV heard good things as long as it doesn’t get over torqued and yes it’s just a 6 bolt rods with 7 bolt pistons I have another engine ready for when I blow this one up
 

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Today was a long day not sure what’s up till I get my tubular front motor mount installed but the engine seams to be miss aligned in the bay I finally got all the motor mounts to line up new steel shift fork oem TOB act lightweight flywheel and act clutch install finally some reall progress
 
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I’ve been looking online for photos of the Jmf billet catch can internals as they claim to be baffled while I do like the design and location as well as it’s a beautiful piece I’ll definitely be tig welding a better baffle set up inside of this catch can
 

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Well tonight was kind of a long night haven’t been out to the car in a while she’s about a 45 minute drive away to my storage unit but I was able to get the front stainless steel lines ran to the calipers and from the brake master cylinder back to the staging brake So a little bit more work to do I’ve got to order some fittings

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It’s been a while it gets too hot out in my shop during the summer months so I rarely get a chance to work on it however it started to cool down again into the 70s and 60s Just finished installing the fully adjustable Tubular control arms And the CTSV brake upgrade

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Coolant swirl pot being fabricated definitely aren’t my best welds but I’m sure it’ll hold fine I’ll post some photos next time I’m in the shop

To do

  1. Ss brake line to rears
  2. Install Rear coil overs
  3. Evo X enkies
  4. M12x1.75 hss tap stripped the drivers side motor mounts
  5. Re install all motor mounts
  6. 12an line and fittings for heater
  7. Build coolant swirl pot
  8. Build 16an radiator lines
  9. Make SS exhaust
  10. Boost leak test manifold again maybe buy a magnus
  11. Bov leaking buy new maybe
  12. Tranny/transfer case fluid
  13. Connect driveline
  14. Set BISS, idle switch
  15. shifter cable spherical bearing and shifter stop set screw
  16. New MAP sensor
  17. Instal gauges/search pinout
  18. Adjust CAS
  19. Set TPS
My biggest one is getting the tires back on the ground with some new enkies

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