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Posted by v8s_are_slow, Feb 5, 2006
Bolt-on Tech - 4G63 intake, exhaust, intake manifold, ignition, fuel system, cooling, etc.
I always flush out the lines with a cleaner and water to get all the metal shavings out of the lines.
You can leave the tape on if you want it holds the steal braid in place while installing the fitings. Also use some type of light oil on the fitings and inside of the hoses before installing the fitings on the hose.
All of the hoses I have on my car are tripple layer teflon steel braided hose w/ high pressure fittings.
Duck tape works best. Electric tape is alittle messy. Another helpful tip is to drop some oil into the hose end to allow easier insertion of the fitting.
For advanced information go to http://tpl.3maw.usmc.mil and search the na-01-1a-20 manual. This covers every aspect to the hose manual.
I have been using this manual for 4 years and it has always been helpful.
You are on the right track as far as wraping it with tape to keep the outerbraid from freying. I've tried at least 8 different types of tape. Electrical being the worst to use and fiberglass tape being the best. Fiberglass tape is the tape that is clear and has the fiberglass strands that run one way. Because of the fiberglass strands, it's very strong and durable.
Wrap the area that you want to cut, and cut right though the middle of the taped area using a hack saw with a fine tooth metal cutting blade. The newer the blade, the better. Fiberglass tape will keep the line from freying if wrapped tight enough.
Also, make sure you remove the tape from the end before installation of the fittings.
The trick is to use a Carbon Metal cutting blade with lots of teeth on air.
Holding the line in a Vice face out, and spraying WD40 on it to act as a cutting fluid also helps.
Dremel wont do it, neither will Corse cutting blades. All in the setup, like everything!
The combination of a hack saw and electrical tape does suck. The problem with the electrical tape is that it easily stretches and has poor adhesion. When you take a hand saw to it and the tape stretches, it releases it "grip" on the hose, and it freys. The fiberglass reinforced hose is much better (and that is why most all stainless braided hose manufacturers use the fiberglass tape also). The tape splits easily, allowing even a hand saw to cut through like butter, and the fiberglass strands stay firmly in place supporting the overbraid from freying.
This is not what you find in your average Joe's garage. However, a $10 hand saw and a $3 roll of fiberglass tape is common and affordable.
Yeah, well, you also leave the tape on the ends of the hose too....
The problem with some cutting discs, is their width. They may cut through easily, but many times, it will not be a clean cut.
PM for questions.
On a standard An fitting, on the hose end, there are 3 seperate seals. Due to the extremely high tolerences, there was no intention for making room for tape on the end of the hose. While it may fit when forced, it could easily compromise the #1 primary seal on the fitting. Then you are left relying solely on the threads of the fitting to seal the fluid transfer. It can also affect the "lock" on the hose in the "cutter and nipple" area of the fitting. The fitting is designed to seperate the outerbraid from the hose at the locking area. With tape on the end, the seperation process cannot take place. Therefore, you would not be able to push the hose nearly as far onto the fitting, and this can easily lead to the hose blowing off under pressure.
And I pulled this directly out of my XRP catalog:
Step 1. Wrap hose tightly with tape at cutting point. Use a fine tooth hacksaw, cable cutters, or XRP cut-off blade, cut the hose in the middle of the tape. IMPORTANT: Remove tape after cutting, being careful not to frey the braid. Failure to remove tape can impede hose assembly and lead to fitting blow off. Under no circumstances should the tape be left on the hose during assembly."
I also called Earls, and they too recommended removing the tape, but did not have much else to say on the subject.
It's cool that you guys haven't had any leaks as of yet, but I personally am not ready to chance anything with the fluid transfer on my car. If anything in my post is not understood, I can supply diagrams.
I thought that DSMs were suposed to be the anti-bling!?
however i did try the electical tape and die grinder method the other day and it worked fine for me.
Another guy pm'ed me with an idea of wrapping it in tape and hitting it with a good hit with a chisel on concrete. Sounds like an okay idea cause I wouldn't think it'd give it much time to make the strands flare out, but my car is parked over at my parent's place and don't think they'd appreciate a big hole in their slab of concrete.
I'll try it out this weekend though and let ya'll know how it goes. Thanks for the input!
I bought my roll of fiberglass tape at Walmart, but I'm sure it can be found almost anywhere.
Huh? What are you referring to?
Teflon has an advantage over rubber synthetic hose in a few different ways.
1. rubber generally needs to be replaced every three years.(technically).
teflon last a life time.
2. teflon doesn't transfer any heat.
3. Teflon can hold much higher pressures. (not like it really applies to oil or fuel for us)
Another thing I wanted to mention to everyone, was that I use black shrink wrap on all of my hoses. Why, well it looks like the stock rubber hose and no one can tell the difference.
I use teflon(steel braided) hose for the main fuel line from the tank to the rail. If anyone has a question about the construction of these particular hoses go ahead and ask. These hoses are not build the same way that rubber hoses are. The fittings cost a bit more. but hey, you get what you pay for.
Just a thought.