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Dsmbiz26

Probationary Member
11
3
May 27, 2017
Salem, Massachusetts
So, quick backstory. I've had my dsm since I was 18(27 now) due to having other cars, having a baby and life I've neglected her for the past cpl years ;(
But things are starting to look up financially and it's time to get her going again. The last time she was running I hit some boost creep and my 16g ended up grendading and the car died, would not stay running afterward.. Also, I would think the car could run on a blown turbo, but have read rare cases of it causing engine failure and I'm hoping that's not the case... I pulled the turbo, ic piping, intercooler and drained the oil. The only place I found metal shavings was right where my intake connects to the turbo. But the comp wheel was completely smoked. Anyways I want to get her going and I want to do a compression test before tossing money at her, but Ive since gotten rid of the blown turbo and have no way to warm the car up prior. If I do the test cold I'm aware the numbers won't be as high but will it still be good enough to see if all cyl are within 10% of each other? Any suggestions besides checking comp. Before going at it would be appreciated! Sorry for the lengthy read.
 
If you do the test cold, especially if it's been sitting for awhile, you won't get accurate results. If the compressor wheel was destroyed, I'd recommend pulling the motor apart for inspection, and cleaning if you want to be 100% thorough. It's pretty much impossible none of the metal made it's way into the engine.
 
Thanks, that's kinda what I figured seeing as it's sat for so long I knew the numbers would be low, but was hoping I would still be able to see discrepancy between each cylinder accurately :(

My guess is none of the metal made it thru the stock smic. *Fingers crossed*
 
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