arp torque specs

Posted by myblack98gst, Jun 16, 2004

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  1. myblack98gst

    myblack98gst Proven Member

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    alright I am going to be assembling my motor later this week, but I need to know the torque specs for the ARP head studs and main studs (using ARP lube). I am reusing these parts from another motor I had so I no longer have the packaging.

    motor Specs.

    90 6 bolt block (decked,bored, align bored, etc...)
    crank turn .010 over
    Clevite bearings
    Eagle H-BeaM rods with 3/8" ARP
    Wiesco .020 over 9.0:1 compression pistons
    Mitsubishi multilayer headgasket


    if you know the torque specs let me know PLEASE!
     

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  2. philipkrotch

    philipkrotch Banned Member

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    head studs are 80...i have mine to 85. start at 15, then 30 , then 60, then 80
     
  3. pneumo

    pneumo Proven Member

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    Bay Area, California
    I agree. I just installed the head on my rebuild 6 bolt using ARP headstuds. The instructions say to use 81 ft-lbs, but I went up to 85.
     
    My DSM:
    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    11.514 @ 118.130 MPH
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  4. Suparata

    Suparata DSM Wiseman

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    Joined Jan 18, 2003
    Chicago, Illinois
    The torque on the head should be the same as the one that was used when bored and finish honed with the torque plate. Same thing on the mains: use the torque that was used at align hone/bore.
    For the rod bolts you need a Rod Bolt Stretch Gauge to do it right.
     
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  5. pr0_re

    pr0_re Proven Member

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    ,
    rods 40 toque thenlsen and retoque 3 tiimes
    mains 60
    head 80
     
  6. 95GSXracer

    95GSXracer DSM Wiseman

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    Epping, New Hampshire
    You want to space out the stages the most before the last one. So rather than 15-30-60-80, try something like 25-45-80. If there is any resistance in the threads or washer to nut, you may not be able to get the nut moving again before the wrnech clicks. ;) This is pretty important. Equally important is using ARP lube, NOT oil. Summit sells it cheap if you got a stud set that doesnt include any. Use a tap to clean the threads in the block, this is VERY important. All studs must threads in completely by hand. Use M12x1.25 for 6 bolt, and M11x1.25 for 7 bolt. Its also a good idea to measure the studs and document the lenghts and locations. If they stretch more than ARP limits, dont reuse them.

    Ever since I started following these simple rules, I havent lost a single HG. Even re-used mitsu metal gaskets. Thought it was worth mentioning in this thread.
     
    My DSM:
    1992 Eagle Talon TSi

    7.961 @ 171.100 MPH
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  7. philipkrotch

    philipkrotch Banned Member

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    ya, i went to 85 too.
     
  8. v8s_are_slow

    v8s_are_slow Proven Member

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    Panama City, Florida
    i recently put in some arp's with a mitsu metal head gasket. i had put in the studs and used the provided lube stuff when i put them in. it was a day later though when i actually put the head back on cause i was waiting on the machine shop. i forgot to use anything such as oil or lube on the top half of the studs and torqued them down to 85 ft.-lbs. would it be necessary to torque it down tighter and if so, what torque? should i take off all the nuts, put some oil on the threads and them retorque them to a certain spec? just afraid of taking them out and have water leak in between the head while the nuts are off. wondering what i oughta do. thanks for any input.

    scott
     
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  9. Bostedquest

    Bostedquest Proven Member

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    going off the top of my head...
    I believe that ARP says to trq the studs in the block at 65? Ft Lbs... then 85 in 2 steps on the head.
    No, no oil/grease is needed at the top bolts. At least I did not use any... though I did do both main and head studs so I might be getting them confuses, that and I did it last summer... OMG
     
  10. Prez

    Prez Proven Member

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    I would drain the coolant and oil. Then remove the nuts and then apply straight 30W oil and tourque to spec which is 89Ft LBS, I did 90 on mine for the 30W oil and then fill fluids again.

    Make sure to remove the nuts in the right order and tighten them in the right order.
     
  11. 4g64fiero

    4g64fiero Proven Member

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    I completely rebuilt my motor but now I need to know the ARP l19 head stud torque procedure and specs.... I cant find them anywhere. I called a few vendors but they told me to wait till monday when theyre tech guys are in. I searched like crazy all day but to no avail.
     
  12. TSIfreek

    TSIfreek Proven Member

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    Torque them to what ever the machinist used with the torque plate when he honed the block. More torque will distort the cylinders.
     
    My DSM:
    TSIfreek 1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    11.27 @ 127 MPH
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  13. 4g64fiero

    4g64fiero Proven Member

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    I actually have a torque plate made from a spare head and I opted not to use it. There are two sides to that argument. Some say it does more harm than good....

    Anyways, still looking. :(
     
  14. TheBoz

    TheBoz Proven Member

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    Riverside, California
    I have mine currently torqued at 105ft lbs. I used the standard torque pattern. I am running 34psi on a 37r.
     
  15. boosted240

    boosted240 Proven Member

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    we torque ours to 125 130
     
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  16. giovanniv

    giovanniv Proven Member

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    Ok so I have not found a solid answer on what to torque my 7 bolt arpies to. I am running an MLS headgasket and I think I read I have to torque them down to ~85ft lbs in 3 steps correct? Like say 50ft lbs then 70ft lbs then 85ft lbs? I heard someone say it that way and then I read of some guy tightening and losening the headstuds 5 times? :confused:WTF . What is the correct way and I will be using motor oil not the moly lube. thanks guys!
     
  17. KevinRR

    KevinRR Proven Member

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    I just torque mines down in three step like you did to 90ft lbs using the arp moly lube amd never had a problem yet.
     
  18. giovanniv

    giovanniv Proven Member

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    I read that earlier and it says the torque specs for a 6 bolt and they are using the stock HG (i dont know if it makes a difference)....
     
  19. KevinRR

    KevinRR Proven Member

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    I use an OEM MLS headgasket and it fine.
     
  20. giovanniv

    giovanniv Proven Member

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    But does it matter that I have a 7 bolt and you have a 6 bolt since they aren't the same studs?
     
  21. xloki77x

    xloki77x Proven Member

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    I am unsure of the proper torque for 7 bolt head/motors and also unsure if it makes a difference what material gasket you use. I do know that there is a good chance ARP has it on their website, though.

    You want the third (and final) step to be the largest jump. So say you went in this sequence:

    1.) 25 ft.lbs.
    2.) 40 ft.lbs.
    3.) 80 ft.lbs. or whatever the final torque is specified.

    Also, you MUST use the moly lube ARP supplies or your torque numbers mean nothing. If you use an inferior lube, such as motor oil, most of the torque being applied is used to simply break the initial torque that is caused by the lube (motor oil) not being the best thing for the job. With the moly lube supplied and tested by ARP, you can be sure the torque you are applying is damn near the same torque they were intended to have from ARP.

    Hope this helps.
    Pete
     
    My DSM:
    1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

    13.010 @ 108.900 MPH
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  22. KevinRR

    KevinRR Proven Member

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  23. giovanniv

    giovanniv Proven Member

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    Well I have read multiple threads of people saying that regular motor oil would be perfectly fine to use it just needs to be torqued down a little more. Also is loctite on the stud part that goes into the block a must?

    EDIT I just read the article on arp's website and I found this.....

    2. The lubricant used is the main factor in determining friction, and therefore, the torque for a particular installation. Motor oil is a commonly used lubricant because of it's ready availability. If less friction is desired in order to install the fasteners with less torque, special low friction lubricants are available. With special lubes, the required torque can be reduced as much as 20 to 30 percent. It is important to keep in mind that the reverse is also true. If the torque value has been specified for a particular fastener on the basis of low friction lube, installing the fastener with motor oil will result in insufficient preload; the torque has to be increased to compensate for the extra friction caused by the motor oil.

    I guess I am gonna tighten them down in the stage mentioned above but torque them down to 90ft lbs. What do you guys think?

    ANOTHER EDIT LOL I read this thread on dsmtalk that people were saying to tighten them down to 120ft lbs with motor oil!! I think ill stick with 105 and call it a day there..... Here is the link..

    arp head stud torque spec - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum: DSMtalk.com
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 5, 2014
  24. 96eclipzGsT

    96eclipzGsT Proven Member

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    Canton, Georgia
    I torqued my arp studs to 85ftlbs. I don't know if I would go over 100. I would be scared that I would break one off in the block. That is my opinion.
     
  25. deerhunter0881

    deerhunter0881 Proven Member

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    Lake Ariel, Pennsylvania
    It will take alot more than 100 ft pounds for arp too break
     
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