Anyone prepped for Rally or Rallycross

[Evo3Codriver]

How much lift over stock were you able to get?

I dunno. I put them on just before track days so tried to keep them low as possible. They don't adjust as low as you'd want because threads come out bottom towards axle. At lowest, they are still higher than stock.

The DMS I also have is way more adjustable.

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[TheMadCheshire]

Definitely would recommend the aluminum 15" over steelies. The diamantes are hard to find in my area for whatever reason. They were my first choice. With a little bit of grinding(of the hub), nissan or Infiniti wheels from Maximas and I and j30s will fit.
With the extra power and suspension of the talon, I decided it was essential to get aluminum wheels after the wifey bent 4 steels on the sentra.

Nathan, The ksports leave you slightly higher than stock at maximum low( any lower and the threads come super close to the cv boots on full droop). I'd imagine with the extra weight of a cage and tools/spare, guards, etc, it'd sit about at stock. My car is stripped minus dash if that gives you any idea.

Evo, will bigger brakes fit under your 15s? One guy here has 15x7 team dynamics and they clear the outlander brakes but the 15x6.5s don't clear. All the maxima and Infiniti wheels I've tried clears the dual pistons but i'ven't tried the outlanders

 

[Evo3Codriver]

Nathan, The ksports leave you slightly higher than stock at maximum low( any lower and the threads come super close to the cv boots on full droop).

Yeah, that is what I was saying and not too happy about.

Evo, will bigger brakes fit under your 15s?

I'll keep the current setup to swap in if I do a rallyX. course opening or fast sweep to run my gravel rallytires on 15s.

And get the larger brakes because I need them if I do another track day because stock brakes were not lasting entire sessions (scary finding out @ 130) which I'll run with the 17s when I drive on street or track. Plus the 17s really fill up the wheel well voids created by the skyjacked KSports. Thinking I'm getting an additional 17 inch wheel set, one for the Toyo DOT race tires for street and track, and other set for winter tires.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

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[2gmitsueclipse]

For track days, I have had great luck with the Outlander brake upgrade. The only things that need swapped are the caliper brackets and rotors. I have a separate set of pads for track days, so the swap is quite simple. After the track day, simply swap the other rotors and brackets back on the car.

 

[Evo3Codriver]

Bump for rally.

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[9!'clipseDOHC]

Bump for rally.

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Nice shot Dave!

There is a new calendar out for you dirt loving fans! Check out the 2014 DirtyEvo.com Member Calendar packed with Evo's and DSM's playing in dirt, mud, sand, gravel, and snow! DirtyEvo.com 2014 Member Calendar on Lulu.com

 

[marcelo_caz]

I'm going to start following this thread since I'm half way in to turning my DSM into a rally fun car.

anyways, does anyone know what are the rules for the interior? can it be completely gutted? I know that you need the OEM dash, but what about door cards?

I'm going to start following this thread since I'm half way in to turning my DSM into a rally fun car.

anyways, does anyone know what are the rules for the interior? can it be completely gutted? I know that you need the OEM dash, but what about door cards?

 

[boarderlib]

I'm going to start following this thread since I'm half way in to turning my DSM into a rally fun car.

anyways, does anyone know what are the rules for the interior? can it be completely gutted? I know that you need the OEM dash, but what about door cards?

Another good source of rally specific information would be Dirtyevo.com. There's some very knowledgeable guys there too. I am in no way trying to say the guys here aren't knowledgeable, as there are some of the best with this platform on here. Just that DE is more rally specific. That's all.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

anyways, does anyone know what are the rules for the interior? can it be completely gutted? I know that you need the OEM dash, but what about door cards?

A few things need to be known to answer that question:

First discipline: (Rally or Rallycross)

Then sanctioning body: (SCCA, Rally America, NASA)

Then lastly class: (Stock, Prepared, Modified)

I'm assuming you mean rallycross, since stage rally is a bit more complex and expensive to get into. 90% of rallycross in the U.S. is SCCA sanctioned. So the main question is how far you want to modify your car and what classes your local region runs. As far as SCCA Rallycross, you can make the following interior modifications:

STOCK: You are allowed to add "dress up" and "convenience items" (i.e. shift knobs and petal cover), as well as protective equipment, such as a roll cage and harnesses.

PREPARED: You can add any fully upholstered racing seats, as long as you retain the original number of seats (i.e. you must keep the rear seats).

MODIFIED: You can remove and/or replace any interior components. This includes removing the dash, door panels, trim, airbags, and unused seats.

You can view or download the 2014 SCCA Rallycross rule book here: http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2014%20RallyCross%20Rules.pdf

 

[marcelo_caz]

A few things need to be known to answer that question:

First discipline: (Rally or Rallycross)

Then sanctioning body: (SCCA, Rally America, NASA)

Then lastly class: (Stock, Prepared, Modified)

I'm assuming you mean rallycross, since stage rally is a bit more complex and expensive to get into. 90% of rallycross in the U.S. is SCCA sanctioned. So the main question is how far you want to modify your car and what classes your local region runs. As far as SCCA Rallycross, you can make the following interior modifications:

STOCK: You are allowed to add "dress up" and "convenience items" (i.e. shift knobs and petal cover), as well as protective equipment, such as a roll cage and harnesses.

PREPARED: You can add any fully upholstered racing seats, as long as you retain the original number of seats (i.e. you must keep the rear seats).

MODIFIED: You can remove and/or replace any interior components. This includes removing the dash, door panels, trim, airbags, and unused seats.

You can view or download the 2014 SCCA Rallycross rule book here: http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2014%20RallyCross%20Rules.pdf

My DSM no longer has any interior piece besides dash and door panels, seat are not original anymore. I wanna start with rallycross but eventually try on some stage rally events. I'm not in any serious competition, I just wanna do it for the fun.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

My DSM no longer has any interior piece besides dash and door panels, seat are not original anymore. I wanna start with rallycross but eventually try on some stage rally events. I'm not in any serious competition, I just wanna do it for the fun.

You would be in the Modified class for SCCA RallyX, same as me. You can use this map feature to find rallyx events near you to get started: DirtyEvo.com - DirtyEvo RallyX Map

Like boarderlib mentioned, DirtyEvo.com is a great resource if you are looking to get your tires off the pavement. Check it out!

 

[Phil1320]

Great stuff here. They hold at least one rallycross here in CT. I may just have to get involved. One project at a time though. Well, not really, more like 3 at a time.

Looking forward to some updates this year Nate. Maybe some more winning!?

 

[marcelo_caz]

You would be in the Modified class for SCCA RallyX, same as me. You can use this map feature to find rallyx events near you to get started: DirtyEvo.com - DirtyEvo RallyX Map

Like boarderlib mentioned, DirtyEvo.com is a great resource if you are looking to get your tires off the pavement. Check it out!

I will check them out and get registered.

 

[Evo3Codriver]

Another car I codrive. Ex-Didier Auriol's factory WRC winning Lancia Delta Integrale HF.

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Like playing Sega rally in person.

With Jeremy Deitzel's hillclimb Evo.

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With Rob Martai's rally EvoX.

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[2gmitsueclipse]

I finally made the jump and purchased a dedicated rally cross car. It is a 90 Laser RS FWD. I am aiming for the prepared FWD class for now. I am wanting a little more height but not ready to make the jump to coilovers. Could I get taller springs with a GC type setup? I was thinking of AGX struts.

 

[Evo3Codriver]

I finally made the jump and purchased a dedicated rally cross car. It is a 90 Laser RS FWD. I am aiming for the prepared FWD class for now. I am wanting a little more height but not ready to make the jump to coilovers. Could I get taller springs with a GC type setup? I was thinking of AGX struts.

I never ever no matter how many I bought, had AGXs or Gr2s last w/o blowing to want to use them ever again. Yes, they are cheap but so many times would not last a day of smooth rally or rallyx conditions. KYBs blow, literally.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Care to make any reccomendations? Aside from coilovers. I have not had bad luck with the old AGX's on my 2g, but then again, I have had to be cognisent of my ground clearance which does not allow me to be as fast as I could be.

 

[Evo3Codriver]

I don't know of any non-coilovers. Bilsteins?

http://www.dirtyevo.com/showthread.php?t=1251

 

[mbyoung424]

So...anyone have any input from last season? I'm going to try out Rallycross in the SCCA DC region this year. I should be in the AWD prepared class. I'm already kicking myself for selling my Diamante 16" wheels with winter tires after I installed the 3kGT VR4 brakes. I still have all the old brake components so I may swap back and forth so that I can get some decent 15-16" wheel/tire setups. Not much besides a few 225/40r17 winter tires out there. I was going to roll with the all season M+S that came with the car until it snowed this week and I almost slid off the driveway. Now I'm not so sure. Has anyone been to the Frostburg Maryland course that cares to share any input on the driving conditions?

 

[smoked28]

So there does exist a rally thread on this site

I am looking to get into rally racing and am CONSIDERING doing it with a DSM. I currently have an AWD Talon, but I know that most people recommend starting out buying somebody else's rally build. Thus, I'd be looking to buy another DSM if i decided to go this route. Anyone have any input as to why to go DSM vs Subie/Ford/etc.? How do they hold up to the brutal sport? Also, why does everyone go the 1G route? Just because of price?

 

[kainam00]

I sold my car many many years ago, but I can answer your questions -
1st - what's your level of experience with rally in general? I suggest attending an SCCA rallycross and volunteering at a stage rally or crewing for a team. That will give you a good idea of what you're getting into. Stage rally involves a lot of things that aren't related to driving or wrenching. It's part of the fun, but sometimes catches people by surprise, stresses them out, and leads them to not stick with the sport.

2nd - definitely buy someone elses ready to go car as your first car. Make sure it has a log book and is legal to compete. Just because there is a cage in it, doesn't mean it'll be legal for rally. It will get you on the stages earlier and there are a lot of little things that go into a rally car that you won't know about until you get some experience. It will also save you many thousands of dollars. Having had 3 rally cars at this point, I can tell you that a basic rally car costs at least 10k to build, assuming you do most of the labor yourself (300+ hours of labor), and you can buy a good starter car for 5k. I sold my old AWD turbo 1g for $3900.

Regarding going the DSM route, there are a few things to consider. This applies to whatever you choose -
* Familiarity with the car. If you know how to fix things quickly, that's huge in a rally situation.
* Spare parts availability. Do you have a parts car? Can you find spare body panels or control arms at a junk yard? You will need them...
* Cage fitment. A modern rally cage has a lot of bars. A lot of older sports cars (DSM included) have very low (sleek) roofs, so if you're a taller person, not having your head hit the bars above you becomes almost impossible. A hatchback or sedan has a huge advantage here. Having a lot of interior room is important for comfort as you're going to spend 12+ hour days in the car. Think or a rally as going on a road trip in a race car.
* Availability of good suspension options. Can you get DMS, Reiger, RSSP, Ohlins, or at least some Bilstein HDs for whatever you're choosing?
* Something you love. Really this is the main thing... You're going to spend a lot of time and money on it, so you should at least like it.

A 1g DSM will hold up just fine. Mine took a lot of abuse with minimal maintenance and wasn't any less reliable than my Subarus. Unless you're starting with a brand new car, you'll need to go through and replace all the wear items like bearings, bushings...etc. I feel like the reason to go with the 1g is mostly due to suspension design. McPherson struts on the front of the 1g are a lot stronger, simpler, and have more travel (i.e. allow for more ground clearance and jump/bump hit absorption) than the double a-arms on the 2g. There are some good suspension options available as well. Mine had DMS's and they were awesome.

Hopefully that's a good start and you make the jump into this addictive sport. If you have any questions, feel free to email me at dmitriy<dot>mar<at>gmail<dot>com . I haven't had a DSM for many years, so I'm not here very often