Murdertalon
Proven Member
- 398
- 86
- Jul 7, 2016
-
East side,
Washington
If your having thermostat issues (I feel bad for you son I got 99 problems, but temps ain't one.)
or over heating due to thermostat issues (like I was) I am adding another option for thermostat application.
Firstly after some research I would recommend using an OEM Mitsubishi thermostat because the "run of the mill" replacements (local parts store) are not reliable.
If you are having overheating issues on a 2G DSM you should look at some things:
1. Coolant cap sealing / overall cooling loop holding pressure
2. Thermostat functioning
3. Ducting (this was not my issue as I am still stock smic)
4. Efficiency of cooling loop IE: radiator performance and cooling loop capability
If you want something that performs even better than the stock DSM OEM mitsubishi part consider what I did. I used an EVO9 thermostat and cut the flange to fit into a DSM 2G housing. After researching what options I had I found that using a much lower temp thermostat was not going to give me temp range I want and could negatively effect fuel mileage. So other options.. What about a larger opening for the coolant flow? What about a thermostat that is more reliable because it has a center section that is mostly silicone? *just looked up the OEM DSM one also appears to have some sort of either gasket or silicone application going on in the center?
Alternative option is EVO9 part # MD363571 80c thermostat cut to fit a DSM.
OPENING TEMP: 80 C ± 1.5 C (176 F ± 3 F)
FULL-OPENING TEMP: 93 C (199 F)
AMOUNT OF VALVE LIFT: 9.5 mm (0.37") or more
I achieved this cut with a vice and a dremel cutting wheel just cutting a small section at a time. I used measuring calipers to make sure the size was going to work and when I was done it was within 1mm round after light filing.
My temps observed over the past 4 months show that my cooling loop on the stock radiator is more than enough to cool my car efficiently even in 100* weather. The highest temp I have seen is 210* which is where my fans kick in and then lowers the temp. I have seen zero over heating issues and my temp gauge stays in the lower half (I use a logger to see actual temps) but the gauge staying below half is new to this thermostat. After my experience with an autozone "fail safe" thermostat I wont be putting one of those in any vehicle in the future.
or over heating due to thermostat issues (like I was) I am adding another option for thermostat application.
Firstly after some research I would recommend using an OEM Mitsubishi thermostat because the "run of the mill" replacements (local parts store) are not reliable.
If you are having overheating issues on a 2G DSM you should look at some things:
1. Coolant cap sealing / overall cooling loop holding pressure
2. Thermostat functioning
3. Ducting (this was not my issue as I am still stock smic)
4. Efficiency of cooling loop IE: radiator performance and cooling loop capability
If you want something that performs even better than the stock DSM OEM mitsubishi part consider what I did. I used an EVO9 thermostat and cut the flange to fit into a DSM 2G housing. After researching what options I had I found that using a much lower temp thermostat was not going to give me temp range I want and could negatively effect fuel mileage. So other options.. What about a larger opening for the coolant flow? What about a thermostat that is more reliable because it has a center section that is mostly silicone? *just looked up the OEM DSM one also appears to have some sort of either gasket or silicone application going on in the center?
Alternative option is EVO9 part # MD363571 80c thermostat cut to fit a DSM.
OPENING TEMP: 80 C ± 1.5 C (176 F ± 3 F)
FULL-OPENING TEMP: 93 C (199 F)
AMOUNT OF VALVE LIFT: 9.5 mm (0.37") or more
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I achieved this cut with a vice and a dremel cutting wheel just cutting a small section at a time. I used measuring calipers to make sure the size was going to work and when I was done it was within 1mm round after light filing.
My temps observed over the past 4 months show that my cooling loop on the stock radiator is more than enough to cool my car efficiently even in 100* weather. The highest temp I have seen is 210* which is where my fans kick in and then lowers the temp. I have seen zero over heating issues and my temp gauge stays in the lower half (I use a logger to see actual temps) but the gauge staying below half is new to this thermostat. After my experience with an autozone "fail safe" thermostat I wont be putting one of those in any vehicle in the future.