The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

2G All About the Converter (Video)

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Boomdeeze

10+ Year Contributor
2,140
373
Jul 5, 2009
Independence, Minnesota
Well I have a couple questions regarding my converter so buckle up!

First I want to ask about my converter rattling while out of the car. I tore my car apart because of a loud clunking/knocking sound coming from the bell housing. I narrowed it down to the converter bolts or the converter itself. When I removed the converter, it was full of fluid(Obviously went all over the floor). When I moved it after I cleaned up the mess, I heard a rattle/clunk. I picked the converter up again and when I shook it, I could see the internals moving about 1/4" side to side and could move it side to side with my fingers. It is a Sinister Speed "Spoolinator" with about 20 miles on it so Im hoping this is normal and it is not toast.

My second is concerning the converter bolts. I am going to drill and tap my converter for 7/16-20 ARP converter bolts but am wondering on what length to get. ARP sells the 240-7302 bolt/kit which is a length of .500 UHL(Under head length). The oem 2g converter bolts are 11mm or .433. With the added width of the Kiggly flex plate, I am wondering if this would fit well or be too short.

OR do I go for the 230-7302 ARP kit which is again the 7/16-20 ARP converter bolt but this bolt is .750 UHL. This bolt I would need to cut down to fit which makes me hesitant to do so. Just wondering what others have done to upgrade. I know some people are going to the 1/2 but I don't feel that will work with my setup and ARP doesn't list a 1/2 ARP converter bolt.

Any help would be great!
 
It's normal to hear stuff moving around in the converter when you shake it. When I was running a sinister converter and I ran the 7/16 arp bolts with a kiggly flex plate. I don't remember the part number but I didn't have to to cut them down. They were the right length from arp. Email Mike at sinister he should know the part number you need
 
It's normal to hear stuff moving around in the converter when you shake it. When I was running a sinister converter and I ran the 7/16 arp bolts with a kiggly flex plate. I don't remember the part number but I didn't have to to cut them down. They were the right length from arp. Email Mike at sinister he should know the part number you need

Thank you for the response and that is great to hear!

Did you run Buschurs Locking kit with those ARPs or just the ARPs, Kiggly flex plate and converter?
 
Here is a video of the "play" in the converter, let me know what you think! I also sent the video to Sinister and waiting for a reply.

I was unable to upload it right to DSMTuners so I uploaded it to YouTube, here is the link:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
I forgot to update after I spoke with Sinister! The play appears to be "normal" so I will test it out this spring when everything is reinstalled.

One more question, anyone go through the process of getting additional tabs welded on to the sinister converter to run eight bolts with the kingly flex plate?
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top