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2G Advice about my setup

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SNAKE_15

10+ Year Contributor
572
47
Aug 28, 2012
Bakersfield, California
Here's the deal. I bought the kiggley racing springs and retainers and I'm planning to send my head in for inspection and have them install the springs/retainers. They will most likely deck the head as well. I'm also installing arp head studs, cosmetic headgasket, and still use my 272 Kelfords with stock cam gears. Is it required to send the block in too or will I be fine? Anything else I should do while the head is out?My motor is healthy and recently did a compression test with a solid 180 across the board. My car dosent have overheating issues either. Getting my car ready for my Fp Black setup.
 
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I can only think of three reasons to deck the head or the block:

They are warped.
You need a different Surface Roughness (Finish) to both for a MLS gasket.
Your trying to raise the compression.

Do you know what the recommended RA is for the cosmetic headgasket?
Have you checked the flatness of both?
 
I can only think of three reasons to deck the head or the block:

They are warped.
You need a different Surface Roughness (Finish) to both for a MLS gasket.
Your trying to raise the compression.

Do you know what the recommended RA is for the cosmetic headgasket?
Have you checked the flatness of both?
Misworded my post. I meant that if for any reason they have to deck it, will I have to take my block in aswell. I'm pretty much just sending my head in to install my springs/retainers. Just curious what exactly I would have to do. I'm planning to remove the head next weekend. Im still driving the car.
 
Getting ready to pull things off my car. So basically all I want to do is send my head at the machine shop to install my arp head studs, headgasket, and install my kiggley racing springs/retainers. Is it safe to send just my head or will I have to send my block as well?
 
Getting ready to pull things off my car. So basically all I want to do is send my head at the machine shop to install my arp head studs, headgasket, and install my kiggley racing springs/retainers. Is it safe to send just my head or will I have to send my block as well?

If you have a stock 7-bolt motor in your car, you have higher than stock compression (standard 178), which I find interesting.

It should be noted that the block will be necessary to install the head studs as the studs are inserted into the block. The head gasket goes between the head and block so that will be needed as well.

The only thing on your list the shop can do is install the springs/retainers having only the head in their possession.

Is there any reason you are so stuck on a Cometic head gasket?

This is the required RA finish from Cometic:
http://www.cometic.com/technical.aspx
What surface finish is required to us an MLS head gasket?
A surface finish of 50 RA (roughness average) or finer, is recommended for a proper gasket seal. Anything rougher may conflict with the gasket design.

If you have not had work done to the block, then I would check it for flatness. Based on your questions, you may want the shop to check this for you. It would need to be disassembled to have it decked.

If you are not up to this, you may want to have it checked for flatness and run a composite head gasket.
 
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If you have a stock 7-bolt motor in your car, you have higher than stock compression (standard 178), which I find interesting.

It should be noted that the block will be necessary to install the head studs as the studs are inserted into the block. The head gasket goes between the head and block so that will be needed as well.

The only thing on your list the shop can do is install the springs/retainers having only the head in their possession.

Is there any reason you are so stuck on a Cometic head gasket?

This is the required RA finish from Cometic:
http://www.cometic.com/technical.aspx
What surface finish is required to us an MLS head gasket?
A surface finish of 50 RA (roughness average) or finer, is recommended for a proper gasket seal. Anything rougher may conflict with the gasket design.

If you have not had work done to the block, then I would check it for flatness. Based on your questions, you may want the shop to check this for you. It would need to be disassembled to have it decked.

If you are not up to this, you may want to have it checked for flatness and run a composite head gasket.
Well exreme psi has an arp head stud kit that comes with a cosmetic head gasket, but I wasn't sure if these are preferred. I just want something thats ready to go or at least requires less work. I guess I should've said I could install the gasket and studs myself. I'm just confused on what's the best route.
 
Again, if you are not have both head and block machined specifically to run an mls (Cometic), verify the block is flat on your own or have the machine shop check it. At least clean up the block surface and use a composite OE or Felpro head gasket, and skip the mls.
 
Again, if you are not have both head and block machined specifically to run an mls (Cometic), verify the block is flat on your own or have the machine shop check it. At least clean up the block surface and use a composite OE or Felpro head gasket, and skip the mls.
Thanks, I plan on using one of those gaskets you mentioned. I just wanna make sure with you guys I'm not taking a risk not sending my block as well for inspection.
 
Yes your taking a risk.

You should be checking the flatness of both and if they need machining that get that done.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-check-a-head-for-warp.341627/
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/me...k-got-feeler-gauges-and-straight-edge.304094/

If you don't have the ability to do that then take then to the shop and ask them to check then with you so you can see what they measure and how. Also find out exactly how that are going to "deck" the head and block. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/getting-head-resurfaced-what-to-watch-out-for.475459/

There is a good thread on what you don't want. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/why-not-to-let-your-head-be-belt-surfaced.360613/

If your going to run the Cometic or any other metal head gasket the odds are about 100% that you will need both surfaces machined for the correct RA.
 
Update:
I ended up pulling the block out as well so I can send that and the head. Im also upgrading my pistons and rods, thinking about the Manley H-beams rods and Manley 8.5:1 pistons. What do you guys think about my internal choice? I plan on having a daily 400-500hp car with my fp black setup.
 
Update:
I ended up pulling the block out as well so I can send that and the head. Im also upgrading my pistons and rods, thinking about the Manley H-beams rods and Manley 8.5:1 pistons. What do you guys think about my internal choice? I plan on having a daily 400-500hp car with my fp black setup.

Good choice on rods/pistons (maybe go higher compression if you can get e85) but that's going to be a laggggggy DD setup to only want 4-500hp out of it. I'd go with a red or even green to get you to your goals
 
Good choice on rods/pistons (maybe go higher compression if you can get e85) but that's going to be a laggggggy DD setup to only want 4-500hp out of it. I'd go with a red or even green to get you to your goals
A lot of people tell me the same about my turbo choice. I'd rather use the black instead of maxing out the red when Im hitting 500hp or even more . The only thing I'm worried about now is my block will last me being that it is a 7 bolt. My motor has 89k original miles.
 
A lot of people tell me the same about my turbo choice. I'd rather use the black instead of maxing out the red when Im hitting 500hp or even more . The only thing I'm worried about now is my block will last me being that it is a 7 bolt. My motor has 89k original miles.

You won't be maxing a red on pump gas without really trying.
 
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