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Adjusting clutch after clutch install... slave/master question

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jc_is_the_man

10+ Year Contributor
40
0
Jul 17, 2008
New hyde Park, New_York
I recently completed a motor swap and while it was out swapped a PP and clutch disk with more meat on it. Now it will go into gear if I really force it too or if the car is off. The engagement point is extremely low and today when I went to adjust the master cylinder rod I ran into a couple issues. The system has been bled already by the way.

1. When I looked up a the master cylinder, I noticed alittle fluid on the boot. Not alot at all, but it looked alittel damp.

2. After watching the youtube vid with jack's trans clutch adjustment. He can manually compress the slave cylinder. I can't do this at all. I was screwing the master cylinder rod all the way out and was going to adjust it from there. But I'm not sure how much to adjust it out or in because of that.

3. Is it possible I screwed something up when putting the clutch back on?

4. I also noticed with taking it around the block the shifting was very hard. I had to force my shifter to shift. It wasn't smooth like it used to be.

Thanks for the help.
 
You adjust it so you get maximum travel without having the master cylinder pushed in slightly when the pedal is up; because of this, master cylinder adjustment is the same whether the clutch is shot or brand new. If your disengagement is really far down on the pedal travel (after adjusting it like jack's video states and bleeding it again afterwards), you most likely have a bad master or slave cylinder or you still have air in the system because you didn't bleed it correctly.

I would have someone hold the slave cylinder in slightly and push on the clutch pedal; have them tell you when the slave starts to push. This would tell you how far down the pedal is before it starts to actually do anything.
 
Has the flywheel been machined? If there has been too much taken off of the flywheel, your clutch fork does not sit at the proper angle to the pressure plate giving a low pedal height engagement in car. Here is a pic from TRE of where your clutch fork should be sitting with the clutched engaged and the pedal all the way up.
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If it is out of adjustments, you'll need to shim the fulcrum ball of the clutch fork to get the fork where it needs to be.
 
2. After watching the youtube vid with jack's trans clutch adjustment. He can manually compress the slave cylinder. I can't do this at all. I was screwing the master cylinder rod all the way out and was going to adjust it from there. But I'm not sure how much to adjust it out or in because of that.


Yes you need to be able to manually compress the slave cylinder. If you have the rod screwed all the way out, screw it in two turns and then try to compress the slave cylinder. Repeat until you can. Then turn the rod 1 turn the opposite way and see if the slave will compress. If it does, you have it adjusted properly.

Then you can continue bleeding the system until you get all the air out.

Keep an eye on your master cyl fluid level. Overfilling it can also creat problems.
 
What I did though was turn the rod completely out.. shouldn't that enable me to compress the slave alone? I was planning on fully backing it out then going turning it one revolution at a time til I could no longer push the slave in.
 
What I did though was turn the rod completely out.. shouldn't that enable me to compress the slave alone? I was planning on fully backing it out then going turning it one revolution at a time til I could no longer push the slave in.


Since you already have it turned all the way out, just turn it in until you can compress the slave cylinder.
 
So, I recently installed a new turbo and now im having similar problems. I didnt touch the slave at all so its got me very confused. It feels like the clutch wont disengage all the way making it hard to get into gear sometimes and I also noticed that the pedal sicks part way down. I have half of my pedal play that doesnt do squat and the pedal sticks right where the slave would start to move then after a bit rises back up. Its a stage 3 disc clutch with act 2600 pressure plate.
 
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