99 Spyder GS - Power Seat Install - Wiring M.I.A.

[jinscho]

I'm in the midst of a GS to GS-T conversion on my 99 Spyder. While researching the power seat install, everywhere I read it was a simple "they're all pre-wired for it, you just have to fish out the connector from under the carpet". Well, imagine my surprise when the harness is NOWHERE to be found on my car.

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As you can tell from the photo, I was irritated so I just pulled the carpet. There's no evidence of wires being cut/removed. Am I missing something here??

I'm sure there's an easy way to wire it in if needed, but I was really hoping for a simple plug-and-play operation for this part of the conversion

 

[DogWhistle]

There are differences in the interior wiring harnesses between the GST/X, and GS.

We noticed the difference when looking to connect power mirrors and front floor courtesy lights — those aren’t there either.

For the power seat, it will require at least a 20-amp lead from a good power connection point near the fuse panel under the dashboard. Be sure to install an inline fuse.

 

[jinscho]

There are differences in the interior wiring harnesses between the GST/X, and GS.

We noticed the difference when looking to connect power mirrors and front floor courtesy lights — those aren’t there either.

For the power seat, it will require at least a 20-amp lead from a good power connection point near the fuse panel under the dashboard. Be sure to install an inline fuse.

Damn.. was hoping someone would reply with 'oh that's a simple fix...' of course not .

Any suggestions as to what I should tap into for the 20amp supply? Ground is easy enough as there's a ground right under the seat.

 

[jinscho]

Nevermind, did some browsing through the electrical manual while on break and it looks like the power seat shares the same wiring as the power windows. Found my 12v source

 

[dustyboner]

i guess they must have changed the harness for the 99.
usually the harness looks like this:

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check connector B-72 (blue, 6 pins)
Pin 6 (red/white) supplies power to the power seats. Chances are you have the wire on the female side of the connector (side with the foam stuck to it). If you do just extend it to the power seat plug.

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[jinscho]

i guess they must have changed the harness for the 99.
usually the harness looks like this:

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check connector B-72 (blue, 6 pins)
Pin 6 (red/white) supplies power to the power seats. Chances are you have the wire on the female side of the connector (side with the foam stuck to it). If you do just extend it to the power seat plug.

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Thanks for the pics, that's going to make things 1000x easier. I'm going to go ahead and peel back the tape from the harness and trace things until I find the wires needed. Worst case scenario, I tap into the wires that feed the power windows motors. I already contacted the guys at Performance Partout to get the connectors I need so the wiring isn't a complete hack job.

 

[dustyboner]

if you need the power seat section of the wiring, let me know. i have 2 spare body harnesses so i don't mind pulling one of them apart.

if you go off the power windows, the easiest thing to do is go off of the power windows relay.
pin 5

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[techboy]

I check in the AWD Talon for you tomorrow ... power seat harness should still be laying in there. Sounds like you might have already purchased what you needed though.

 

[jinscho]

I check in the AWD Talon for you tomorrow ... power seat harness should still be laying in there. Sounds like you might have already purchased what you needed though.

Haven't picked anything up yet, I'm on vacation next week so I was going to take a drive over to Performance Partout on Monday (they're holding a 3G steering wheel for me so I can get rid of the 'school bus' steering wheel). My only concern is if there are any OTHER differences in the harness... I guess only way to know for sure would be to put them side-by side.

 

[jinscho]

if you need the power seat section of the wiring, let me know. i have 2 spare body harnesses so i don't mind pulling one of them apart.

if you go off the power windows, the easiest thing to do is go off of the power windows relay.
pin 5

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Ended up running power from pin 5 of the relay. The red/white wire on connector B72 was non existent on either end of the plug. I'm gonna spend some time while I have the interior completely out of the car to clean up some of the surface rust on the floor. Never realized it was that bad under the carpet.

 

[motomattx]

The top must have leaked at some point.

 

[jinscho]

The top must have leaked at some point.

Funny you say that... The previous owner had a tarp over the car because of all the holes in the top .

All the holes have since been patched, this is the first time I've pulled the carpet since taking ownership. Time to fix it!

 

[motomattx]

By now all of the 2g and most 3g have tops that are complete junk, they are only good for so many years if you dont apply top treatment regularly and keep them out of the sun, mine was completely falling apart, the back window was literally falling out and the inside liner was constantly dropping pieces of black fabric onto my seats because it was literally so rotted and you could see light through it, lucky I happened to be at a junk yard and found a car with a brand new aftermarket top on it that was junked and I yanked the entire top with frame and all and dropped it into mine last summer, years went by where I didnt even plate the car because of it.

 

[jinscho]

By now all of the 2g and most 3g have tops that are complete junk, they are only good for so many years if you dont apply top treatment regularly and keep them out of the sun, mine was completely falling apart, the back window was literally falling out and the inside liner was constantly dropping pieces of black fabric onto my seats because it was literally so rotted and you could see light through it, lucky I happened to be at a junk yard and found a car with a brand new aftermarket top on it that was junked and I yanked the entire top with frame and all and dropped it into mine last summer, years went by where I didnt even plate the car because of it.

That's about how the top was on this car when I bought it. There was a guy about an hour away from me trying to unload a new top for $300 on Craigslist, tried to offer him $200 since he had been trying to sell it for 3 months at that point (think he finally sold it 8 months later). I ended up just pulling the top and got creative. Flex seal works wonders .

 

[motomattx]

Thats funny because I still have a can of flex seal that I bought just for that purpose about 4 years or so back, its still sitting there because I doubted that it would work long term. A guy at a core buying place had told me he had to use it on his daughters Spyder to stop the roof leaking when he saw me in mine. $300 is actually dirt cheap for a new top, I would have tried snagging that thing up, was it already on a frame or had to be installed still?, in my case I got to keep my good frame and I'm planning to stip whats left of the top off of it and store it away for parts, heck they sell each bow on Ebay for like $100-$150 from what I saw back when I was after a new top, they are getting scarce.

If you havent done it I would suggest getting the updated pull strap thing for your top to keep the bows from binding and getting bent, they sell them on Ebay and the dealers used to install them for free if you had a problem with them bending the bows, there was a campaign for it from what I have seen.

 

[jinscho]

Thats funny because I still have a can of flex seal that I bought just for that purpose about 4 years or so back, its still sitting there because I doubted that it would work long term. A guy at a core buying place had told me he had to use it on his daughters Spyder to stop the roof leaking when he saw me in mine. $300 is actually dirt cheap for a new top, I would have tried snagging that thing up, was it already on a frame or had to be installed still?, in my case I got to keep my good frame and I'm planning to stip whats left of the top off of it and store it away for parts, heck they sell each bow on Ebay for like $100-$150 from what I saw back when I was after a new top, they are getting scarce.

If you havent done it I would suggest getting the updated pull strap thing for your top to keep the bows from binding and getting bent, they sell them on Ebay and the dealers used to install them for free if you had a problem with them bending the bows, there was a campaign for it from what I have seen.

It was 300 for everything minus the bows. New rubber channel and all. I knew it was a good price, I just didn't have that kind of extra cash laying around after having just purchased the car and putting money into it to get it on the road. Can of flex seal liquid cost me 30 bucks and the time involved in removing EVERYTHING. Well worth it as I was able to stitch up a few larger holes that weren't visible towards the bottom bow.

As for the strap, I know of the campaign you're referring to and my top is already converted.

Back on topic, I picked up a few wire wheels and a can of white primer so I can fix up the floor. Once that's done I'm going to finish the wiring job with a fresh, clean ground for the seat motor. May even tackle the fuel pump re-wire since I have everything out and easily accessible.