99 7 bolt ???

[Djbaldhead]

Sorry. Didn't know where to put this post as I have limited access as of right now to the site.

So I've been doing research before I buy my first dsm. I'm wanting to do the 6 bolt because from what I'm reading it will hold up better to the power that id like to have.

Now I've come across a couple of disccusions (not sure if they were on this site) saying that the 7 bolts out of the 98-99 2g were less prone to the boogy man known as crankwalk. Is this true? If it is then what's the factor? Depending on the answers I might come to stand still on which motor I want

 

[7o2mikey]

I didn't know where else to ask this but I have a 1995 TSI. Should I do a 6 bolt swap? I plan on doing a full build to reach 550+ WHP . Any info would really help. Again sorry if this is not the right place to ask this.

 

[TurboTesh]

There are many threads out there on built motors... search "built motor" and you'll find everything you need to know. I think in general, people swap 6 bolts in or use the 98-99 longblock; both with forged rods and pistons for those power levels. I think plenty have made the 95-96 bolts work just fine, but im not knowledgeable on that subject.

Most builds I see are: 6 bolt swap, forged rods and pistons w/ARP rod bolts, multilayer metal headgasket w/ ARP head studs, cams/springs/retainers, and a big turbo. And then a transmission built to try and survive that power.

 

[Chaotic Deconstruct]

I would personally never build a non-split thrust block. Not saying that crank walk always happens with those early 2g 7 bolts, but to me it's not worth the risk.

My first GSX was a 1997 model, non-split thrust block, that I purchased in 2001 from an older couple with 11k miles on it. It was their weekend car. I sold it bone stock at 81k miles. It crank walked at just over 100k for the new owner, still in stock form. It was probably starting to walk when I owned it and I just didn't notice the symptoms since this was a relatively smaller issue back then as the cars were newer.

Having seen this happen to a car I took great care of, and still in stock form, made my mind up to avoid these early 2G 7bolts.

 

[spyderdrifter]

6 bolt, 7 bolt, they can both achieve the power level you're looking for. The only real factor, is how well it's built. Even a 95-97, non-split thrust bearing engine can have the same reliability as the others, so long as it's built properly for the power. I've never had crankwalk issues with any of the 7 bolt engines that came in my previous cars when I bought them. The only said issue I've had was with an engine I bought from a guy in Denver that turned out to have some pretty bad crankwalk and I didn't know until after I put a couple hundred miles on it, and was forced to put my 6 bolt back in to keep my car driveable. Wasted $450 on that engine just to trash it. Anyway, I've had 6 and 7 bolt, but unlike a lot of people, I bought what was available to complete my car. It didn't matter to me how many bolts it had.

 

[7o2mikey]

I would personally never build a non-split thrust block. Not saying that crank walk always happens with those early 2g 7 bolts, but to me it's not worth the risk.


My first GSX was a 1997 model, non-split thrust block, that I purchased in 2001 from an older couple with 11k miles on it. It was their weekend car. I sold it bone stock at 81k miles. It crank walked at just over 100k for the new owner, still in stock form. It was probably staring to walk when I owned it and I just didn't notice the symptoms since this was a relatively smaller issue back then as the cars were newer.

Having seen this happen to a car I took great car of, and still in stock form, made my mind up to avoid these early 2G 7bolts.

Looks like I'll need to do a swap then .

 

[7o2mikey]

6 bolt, 7 bolt, they can both achieve the power level you're looking for. The only real factor, is how well it's built. Even a 95-97, non-split thrust bearing engine can have the same reliability as the others, so long as it's built properly for the power. I've never had crankwalk issues with any of the 7 bolt engines that came in my previous cars when I bought them. The only said issue I've had was with an engine I bought from a guy in Denver that turned out to have some pretty bad crankwalk and I didn't know until after I put a couple hundred miles on it, and was forced to put my 6 bolt back in to keep my car driveable. Wasted $450 on that engine just to trash it. Anyway, I've had 6 and 7 bolt, but unlike a lot of people, I bought what was available to complete my car. It didn't matter to me how many bolts it had.

So you never had any issues with a quality build?

 

[spyderdrifter]

Nope. Maybe with a sensor or small leak here and there, but never with anything major.

 

[802gst]

Crankwalk is way over hyped. Some members have had 6 bolts walk some had 7 bolts walk. Both have their good and bad points. Every motor doesn't matter chevy, ford, Honda, or dsm all have a weak spot when you start making more power. I have two 7 bolts one over 210k still going strong. IMO it's crazy to pull a good motor just cuz some people had issues. Maybe just me. If you're going for 550 awhp then building the bottom end is a good idea 6 or 7 bolt. If you go 6 bolt your gonna need 2g or forged pistons, 7 bolt you need rods. I guess if it gives you some piece of mind go for the 6 bolt. Best of luck

 

[7o2mikey]

Crankwalk is way over hyped. Some members have had 6 bolts walk some had 7 bolts walk. Both have their good and bad points. Every motor doesn't matter chevy, ford, Honda, or dsm all have a weak spot when you start making more power. I have two 7 bolts one over 210k still going strong. IMO it's crazy to pull a good motor just cuz some people had issues. Maybe just me. If you're going for 550 awhp then building the bottom end is a good idea 6 or 7 bolt. If you go 6 bolt your gonna need 2g or forged pistons, 7 bolt you need rods. I guess if it gives you some piece of mind go for the 6 bolt. Best of luck

Thanks brother for the info