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98 Talon AWD Street Modified

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ileagleracing updated Street Modified

A picture from 99, can't believe the car used to be that clean.
Carnage left after having a wheel depart the vehicle at an autocross, still got top PAX time for the day.
If your car sits during the winter months, check for Mouse Condo's in the airbox, it'll free up some HP.
One of my favorite racing pictures, the cone stayed up and in the box, no penalty.

View updates to this DSM profile...
 
A lot of changes coming for the car this year, so I thought I'd start posting some stuff in my build thread

Both front and rear subframes are out, so it's a good time to put in the aluminum bushings as well as welding in some gussets, bosses and rear diff mounting tab.

Got some custom billet, sheet metal and 3d printed parts in the pipeline as well.

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look at you and your fancy drawings LOL, arms look good BTW!
 
Is that a driver's side seat bracket I see? I would be interested in that. Sure would be nice to have one that actually fit directly
 
Is that a driver's side seat bracket I see? I would be interested in that. Sure would be nice to have one that actually fit directly
Aluminum, around half the weight of the crap steel Corbeau brackets. Right now I'm trying to figure out a way to make them "universal": my seats in the STH car are bottom mount Corbeaus, but the SM car will have side mount Buddy Clubs. Both cars will have sliders only on the drivers side.
I'm going to make 2 sets, see how they hold up. Then maybe become a freelancer.
 
look at you and your fancy drawings LOL, arms look good BTW!
Thanks, talking to machine shops now.
They use the OEM Moog balljoint, and don't need to be removed to adjust camber. These will go from -2 to -4, but a longer turnbuckle could get them closer to 0.
Not going to be as light as your arms though.
 
Thanks, talking to machine shops now.
They use the OEM Moog balljoint, and don't need to be removed to adjust camber. These will go from -2 to -4, but a longer turnbuckle could get them closer to 0.
Not going to be as light as your arms though.
why would you keep the ball joint as an OEM? you could make use of an outer spherical instead which would be harder wearing and just as cheap to replace. then it makes all joints stronger over all.

whats your projected weight on these then? being alloy should be a decent weight because of the bulk to keep strength up, i personally would also use a nut and bolt on the inner rodends as just clipped in like that might make the rodends wobble and cause excess wear on the shaft.

what other things is it going to incorperate? I like the double adjuster, this was my original plan but space was limited using tube but I have been looking at it again to see if I can make it work well, we dont have alot of room around there anyway LOL
 
why would you keep the ball joint as an OEM? you could make use of an outer spherical instead which would be harder wearing and just as cheap to replace. then it makes all joints stronger over all.

whats your projected weight on these then? being alloy should be a decent weight because of the bulk to keep strength up, i personally would also use a nut and bolt on the inner rodends as just clipped in like that might make the rodends wobble and cause excess wear on the shaft.

what other things is it going to incorperate? I like the double adjuster, this was my original plan but space was limited using tube but I have been looking at it again to see if I can make it work well, we dont have alot of room around there anyway LOL

OEM balljoints are cheap and easy to get. I was looking at putting a spherical bearing in there, but the thrust load is less than half the radial load capability, unless I wanted to go to some oversize & expensive spherical.

The clevis pin & rodend tolerances are pretty tight, I'm not expecting to see much slop there.


There is some roll center adjustment as well with the spacers on the clevis.

My weight calculations have it almost the same as the the OEM arms.
 
OEM balljoints are cheap and easy to get. I was looking at putting a spherical bearing in there, but the thrust load is less than half the radial load capability, unless I wanted to go to some oversize & expensive spherical.

The clevis pin & rodend tolerances are pretty tight, I'm not expecting to see much slop there.


There is some roll center adjustment as well with the spacers on the clevis.

My weight calculations have it almost the same as the the OEM arms.
i guess in your software you have run calculations so you get to see things pop up right?

as for the sphericals they have been used for years in lower arms and they see much more stress so for the uppers they wont be as stressed out, look back into them, good sphericals dont have to be mega expensive at all.

cant wait to see the finished one. whens it likely to be made for testing?

I better watch out as you might put me out of a job haha
 
I'm looking at lead times of about 3-4 weeks once I place the order, probably going to make 3 or 4 sets, depending on the per unit cost.

Working on aluminum billet knuckles as well, but for the front trailing arm I'm waiting for you or Paul to get your act together and make one.
 
I'm looking at lead times of about 3-4 weeks once I place the order, probably going to make 3 or 4 sets, depending on the per unit cost.

Working on aluminum billet knuckles as well, but for the front trailing arm I'm waiting for you or Paul to get your act together and make one.
Oh yay on the knuckles, i was thinking about these again and was considering doing a 2 piece knuckle to cut costs down or seeing if i could make a steel version a tad lighter but offer a deeper curve for wide wheels/tires, but ideas in my head means lots of planning and drawing LOL, might see if the guy with my knuckle scans and FEA the stock ones and see if it was split in 2 what it would do etc.

Comp arm is nearly finished basic stages, just gotta figure a few things out and then i can make the jig and one for testing.
 
Loving what I'm seeing!

I wish our cars had a normal seat mounting pattern from the factory. I'm building my own brackets as well and it's been a pain. Having a sunroof sure isn't helping things, either. In lieu of sliders, I'm making the bases with multiple holes to allow 5mm fore/aft adjustments.

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the thing with using oem locations as a base is the height it adds! some seats and helmets will go so high it might start becoming n issue with things like room pillars and cage bars etc. sure does such our floors i agree with that
 
Oh, I'm fully aware of all the complications at this point! I'm 5'10" and fit in the car with my prototype set with a helmet on, and I managed to get the seat centered to the steering wheel (some exhaust tunnel clearancing was required). If I swapped the base cushion for a lower one, it could probably fit somebody 6' tall. On a non-sunroof car, maybe 6'2".
 
Oh, I'm fully aware of all the complications at this point! I'm 5'10" and fit in the car with my prototype set with a helmet on, and I managed to get the seat centered to the steering wheel (some exhaust tunnel clearancing was required). If I swapped the base cushion for a lower one, it could probably fit somebody 6' tall. On a non-sunroof car, maybe 6'2".
is yours caged or not yet? as thats when the issues arise as the helmet fouls due to the way our pillars go and if the cage follows the pillar then the helmet will to being bulky. i centered mine as much as possible too but we just have a weird roof line and low slung pillars that dont help, if i used the oem points i would never get in the seat let along with a helmet on haha, some of my tunnel is also cut out for recessing, i wish they saw that people would adjust stuff before they built the car LOL
 
I'm looking at lead times of about 3-4 weeks once I place the order, probably going to make 3 or 4 sets, depending on the per unit cost.

Working on aluminum billet knuckles as well, but for the front trailing arm I'm waiting for you or Paul to get your act together and make one.

I’m in for knuckles . Someone needs to get that done already. And cool compression arms. And front subframe......
 
+1 on the OEM seat mounting postitions being weird as heck. I mean what engineer thought it was a good ideat to make all 4 of them out of plane with the others? On that note how are you guys getting accurate measurements for the model of the positions? When I made the brackets for my RSX seats I drew them in CAD from caliper measurements I took off the base of the floor and after they were done I always felt they were still a little off.
 
+1 on the OEM seat mounting postitions being weird as heck. I mean what engineer thought it was a good ideat to make all 4 of them out of plane with the others? On that note how are you guys getting accurate measurements for the model of the positions? When I made the brackets for my RSX seats I drew them in CAD from caliper measurements I took off the base of the floor and after they were done I always felt they were still a little off.
It is a combination of measuring off the Corbeau bracket and measuring the floor pan. I'll probably oversize the holes in my test sets.
 
Took some pictures of the rear subframe, made a half ass attempt to remove the OEM bushings before giving up and bringing it up to RRT in Canton CT. I'll probably hit it with some black paint when I get it back; gotta make the parts under the car look nice.
At some point I plan to do a Nascar Style splined sway bar with a bearing housing attached to the subframe, part of the reasoning behind that additional gusset.
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