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ECMlink 98 GSX, Is the tune looking any better?

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stiggity99

10+ Year Contributor
231
4
Mar 31, 2011
York Haven, Pennsylvania
1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks? Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks?
I boost leak tested to 25psi (tool kept popping off)

2). Verified mechanical timing?
stock cam gears, mechanical timing if perfect.

3). Verified base timing?
i had done this prior, and there hasnt been any timing changes since.

4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil:"Stock 2g coils, brand new OEM, <1yr of use.

Wire brand and Age:Accel brand new wires.

Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: brand new NGK BPR7ES, .023 gap.


5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1:180
Cylinder 2:180
Cylinder 3:180
Cylinder 4:180

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments?
Idle Switch: "Followed Jafro tutorial today, and set tps volts to .63 volts with throttle plate closed
, 5volts WOT
Throttle Cable: adjusted, and opening perfect.
TPS:.63volts with car off, and logging.
BISS:has kept my idling the best it ever has idled. No surging, stumbling, absolutely phenominal.

7). Compression ratio
Wiseco .040 hd1400 , 9.0:1

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring?
no egr, evap, cat. harness works fine.

9). Any DTC/CEL codes?
No.

10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):12.5volts
Car running:>13.4volts

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure:43.5psi verified by gauge.,

Injector Size (cc/min): FIC 1120cc

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand:AEM UEGO, logged in Link.
Calibration Date:genuine aem sensor

13). Type of fuel
Type:gasoline 93octane
Percent of Ethanol:10%

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos?
Yes, Yep.



IM finally able to rev freely now. The whole issue i was having with the CEL tripping under boost was improper spark plug gapping. After a few sessions, my friend and myself put a raw tune on the vehicle, and it needs more work, but i believe it's "safe". My buddy's jonb keeps him busy most of the time, but usually once/month he makes a small trip, and we work on the car. @GST with PSI, heres todays best 2k RPM to 6600RPM (traffic is terrible) 3rd gear wot pull. If/When you get a moment to have a gander, i'd greatly appreciate it.
 

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Your TPS is still super screwed up. I'm not sure what to tell you at this point regarding that. Until you get it fixed, you'll continue to have issues. Uncheck the enable TPS adjustments box and get your TPS working right.

Your DA fuel tables are set way too rich. Go pull the fuel tables I gave you 100 threads ago and upload them: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/98...annot-boost-past-20psi.503630/#post-153592457

Your wideband tracks target AFR fairly well, but it's rich across the board. Pull about 10% from your global fuel value and see what that does.

I'd also pull some timing out of the peak RPM range (5k-7k) until you get the tune sorted out.

Your idle probably constantly sucks because you've got idle set way too high, and your TPS has been screwed up since the beginning of time. Fix your TPS and drop your idle back to 850-900 RPM where it belongs and I'd bet you'll see a significant improvement.
 
Brett:
My idle (1100rpm or not) has been phenominal!!(sp?) even on these hotter Spring days, it never surges anymore. but!, I will drop it down to 850-900 RPM where it belongs.
I followed the Jafro Tuning 101 with the car off. I adjusted slack in the throttle cable, and even ground down an 8mm socket, used ever inch of my Link cable, and had my notebook inside the engine bay, and adjusted the tps voltage to .63, made sure it stayed while tightening it back down... sure enough the reading was constant... So, I fire my car up... Link is reading .65 :-/ Grrr... I have an idea, either spend the $200 for a new tps, or adjust it with the car off to .61/.62, start the engine, and see if Link is seeing .63 steady.... don't you think I would want to clear this "since the dawn of time" issue up??? :)

I can now freely rev 1/2/3/4 gear WOT to 7000rpm (with traffic and the thought of blowing my engine, 6500-6800) or 3/4 throttle, light, etc... 2nd gear feels really nice, but 3rd and 4th are disappointing...no more CEL tripping. Boost holds steady at 21 PSI, turbo is a bit laggy, but efficient. I will re-adjust my tps once (or twice) more, and then do an adjust with hopes it logs correct.
 
@GST with PSI
I unchecked enable tps adjustments, and it took me an hour, but while logging, i was seeing .63v , i had to disconnect the battery due to installing a new alternator this passed Saturday. Today is wednesday, and 20mins ago, i started a capture, and tps volts are reading .57v !!?!?!?!? must i adjust it again? Lowered my idle to 900, no problems.....am now logging an AEM3.5bar MAP sensor. Once i get my tps re-adjusted (i bought an 8' USB extension cable), i will grab a 2000 - 7000rpm 3rd gear pull. Kinda curious as too if i kill the battery, can that play with my TPS voltage....
 
well... instead of getting a paint-job, I ended up replacing the flywheel, clutch, plaTE, tob, fork, slave. it's smooth, and drives well, but as soon as I go under boost, the CEL trips. attached is a log. I cant even go under boost. I believe I damaged my knock sensor when the starter came off. I'm going to look deeper. If anybody can see something that looks out of place, let me know. Thank You!!!
 

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  • log.2017.07.04-01.elg
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That looks like real knock to me. You really need to straighten that out.

If you look at what your car thinks the AFR is (AFRest) it is pig rich at 9.2, but if you look at what you wideband thinks it is (Linwideband) it is 11.9. That is pretty lean. You need to dial in your air MAFComp to get your WBfactor to essentially zero. This should help.

instructions here: https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/maftcalibrationbywbo2

Are you sure you don't have a boost leak? You are adding a lot of air across the board.
 
Joe:
The very odd thing is, the car has been tuned, and the afrest and linear wideband _were_ almost identical. I could pull from 2k to 7200rpm wot @ 22psi with no knock. I separated the trans, Install flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, fork, OEM TOB. Used all the same axles, starter.... the only thing I changed was, I went from Redline lightweight shockproof, to Redline MT90. All parts were brand new. Could my transmission be chattering/clunking because the mileage and MT90? causing the KS to ping?

I tested to 25psi and it took the gauge >1min to leak down to 0psi. I have a very small leak at the TB shaft.... and before I did the clutch, I boost leak tested, and did the same thing today.
 
Joe:
the CEL trips like clockwork, right as boost starts building. Usually 5000 - 5250RPM. I do know, when I took the starter bolts out, the starter fell against the backside of the block, and lodged itself there, until I was ready to re-install it. I looked/googled,etc trying to find a pic of the KS connector. Is it supposed to have a red wire, and black wire??? I see the red wire at the connecter, but I believe the black wire broke-off... I'm not entirely sure, as it was getting dark when I started leaning on the KS as the culprit.

I checked my actuator-arm.... BLT'd, added some padding for unmetered air, cleaned all the electrical connections.. I did managed to get my drivers headlight back in action........ quick question.. lets say the black wire did in fact break off.. could that cause this CEL/loss of most power @ 5200rpm each and every time I _attempt_ a pull?? and it doesn't even have to be wot. On the highway, 65mph I'm close to 3000rpm, and the cel lights up as I give it a smidgin of gas, while _maybe_ pushing <5psi.... I will get to the bottom of this.
 
I don't have a lot of experience with the knock sensor or it's wiring but I'm sure if you do some digging you can find something on this sight. The knock sensor in theory is a microphone. without both wires it won't do anything.

I know you had the car tuned, which is fine, but you are adding a lot fo air for idle and need to add a ton of air for WOT conditions based on you WBfactor. This to me screams boost leak. Could you have a pre o2 exhuast leak?

Knock sensors probably aren't that much. Replace it and see if it helps.
 
1- Ignore Knock Until 3500RPM
2 - Set it look for it at 50%
3 - Your AFREstimate like in the 9. I would think your injector scalling is off and or you maf is uncalibrated and or boost leak. It knocks because you are flooding it. Thats my opinion.
 
Last edited:
1- Ignore Knock Until 3500RPM
2 - Set it look for it at 50%
3 - Your AFREstimate like in the 9. I would think your injector scalling is off and or you maf is uncalibrated and or boost leak. It knocks because you are flooding it. Thats my opinion.

His wideband says the opposite.

Also, 9.5 is stock fuel targets for high load ranges at WOT. Pretty sure it runs fine there.
 
that's what I don't understand? the car was very fast, good on gas, _"low-maintenance"_ I did a clutch job, and now it wont boost... if anyone is interested, can post a log right after adding the AEm 3.5bar map sensor..... it's pretty close to boostEST, before my clutch failed....
 

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  • log.2017.06.21-01.elg
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Mine knocks on anything bellow 11 and mine afrest matches wideband. His wideband factor is way off. Also I just looked at it again his short and long trim are like 9.8 negative. Thats rich period. You need to turn the boost down and set you idle and short fuelw trims and after that work on long trims and after that you do some wot.
 
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Help me understand?

He is 10.8-11.0 at WOT
So if he updates his octane tables then WBfactor would be 0%.

No. I am not an expert but I have some decent understanding of this I would think. Anyways you set the fuel table or octane table what ever you want to call and forget it. If you want to target 9 afr then thats what you do but normally people stay around 11.

Then you do a pull. If using maf not speed dansity then Look at the mafraw and at that airflow you adjust mafcomp. Do another pull and see how close you got. Eventually you will get it that your wideband factor will be very close to zero thru all the range of airflow/mafraw. At least thats how I did. Then you can raised the boost and keep adjusting extra air.

BUT you need to log your wideband perfactly. Mine AEM was a hole point off and I could not figure out why I am knocking and then when I fixed that knock went awey.
 
That looks like real knock to me. You really need to straighten that out.

If you look at what your car thinks the AFR is (AFRest) it is pig rich at 9.2, but if you look at what you wideband thinks it is (Linwideband) it is 11.9. That is pretty lean. You need to dial in your air MAFComp to get your WBfactor to essentially zero. This should help.

instructions here: https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/maftcalibrationbywbo2

Are you sure you don't have a boost leak? You are adding a lot of air across the board.


This is exactly what i said.
 
I turned the boost down to 14psi, (according to the gauge) and it's still tripping the CEL. Before I put the clutch in, the car ran well. I could easily ride 22psi till redline. No serious knock, nothing. Now because the clutch disc failed, my vehicle is running terrible. I am just going to make an educated guess, that _something_ is making the KS detect noise from elsewhere in the engine. The old clutch/setup had a noisy TOB, maybe That tune pulled timing and added fuel, to overcome the chatter TOB, and now that things are quieter, it's knocking due to too much fuel??? I don't know why the afrEST and linWIDEBAND rode close together, until the knock began...then parted ways.

We have been tuning the mafcomp, and only altered the timing DA tables. Fuel is being tuned via mafcomp sliders. AFAIK.. I follow along, but the tune isn't _all_ by me. I installed the new KS, and reduced boost pressure to 14psi....still kicks the CEL, and pulls timing..
 
If you did a clutch job, you have to take apart a serious amount of air related piping. Some of the issues may not show up on a boost leak test. You should check your lines that go from the piping between the turbo and the MAF. There should be two small ones and one big one and the BOV piping, so (4) total. If one of these is missing it could cause unmetered air ingested causing your issue.

You are right,
before the clutch = no problem
after the clutch = problem

it most likely has nothing to do with your KS but with something you did during the install.
 
Brembo:
I attached one a few posts ago, but instead of you having to look for it, i'll attach one again.

Joe:
I'll post another 14psi w/knock log.

Do you think I forgot to take the shop rag out of the throttle body elbow, and it got sucked into the plenum???
The only piping a removed is the extreme psi intake, and upper ETS piping. Triple checked all couplers with soapy water, and elbow grease. My BOV vent back into the intake, (2) of the _nipples_ on the intake are capped, and one hose runs from the valve cover to the intake. I did replace the PCV valve.
 
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