The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support ExtremePSI

98 GS-T Spyder, my very slow build will post pictures along the whole way.

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

FallenKing

10+ Year Contributor
84
4
Jul 17, 2012
Columbia, Missouri
Let's start with a pictures of how it used to look...



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Alright, first thing i did was replace the spark plugs, and holy crap they were messed up...then came the rims. I wanted some black ones cheapeast I found was 600 dollars. So I went to walmart and got a 3.88 spray can, and I got myself some pretty cheap black rims....





Uploaded with ImageShack.us

After I got done with that I thought it was time to swap out the old headers. They sort of ruin the whole look of the engine. A while back for my 3g eclipse i bought some 4g63 headers. I figured what a perfect time to use them for my new baby...



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

And not long after they were on they started to turn gold...



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

My next project will be a Boost Controller, where do people attach those things to? I feel like mine will just hang there...
 
Sweet man, start a journal so I can see yours too what color is yours
 
Looks like a good start to a build man. I feel you on the "slowness", I've had my GSX a little over a year and its been very slow.... What are, or do you have any number goals? And for the boost controller, a bunch of DSMers mount them to the radiator. I've seen some people use these JEGS Cushion Clamps - Stainless Steel - JEGS Good luck!
 
So I have a question...my dash backlights, it is usually off but ever now and then it lights up so I can actually see my MPH at night, does anyone know any trouble shooting tips for that?


So hooked up my boost gauge and realized I was only getting like 7-8 pounds of boost.

Went to my boost controller and uncorked it half way and it was 9-10 pounds.

I finally installed it too, I didn't know how to mount it to the intercooler so I made it hug the intake...

This is where I hooked it up to, is that a good spot? Any better recommendations?
 
Last edited:
there should be a boost source coming off the compressor housing you can use for the boost controller. the shorter the lines the faster response it'll have.
 
sorry i put the pics in the wrong order, that's where i hooked up my boost gauge too, not my boost controller. My boost controller is hooked up to the waste gate actuator that's where it should be hooked up to....

anyone selling a fuel ration gauge, dsm link, intercooler piping, exhaust, fuel injectors, or air filter?
 

Out with the old, in with the new






Some of you may not have known my previous problem but I was experiencing lag at 4k RPM my car would just stall and wouldn't go any further, well after I installed my blow off valve I started hitting 20 Pounds of boost. That's insane currently I don't know what to do to lower my boost, I completely closed my boost controller. If anyone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated. :D

Sequential Blow off Valve 2G Mitsubishi Eclipse - YouTube

This is a link of what the blow off valve sounds like if someone is thinking about buying a sequential :D
 
The benefits of one have never been proven. So unless I bump into one for free I wont get it :D
 
There are numerous threads all over the site about recirculating the BOV. When venting to atmosphere, BOV is releasing air that has already been metered. Also, you shouldn't be running 20psi on a mostly stock setup. The T25 isn't strong enough to support that must boost, and the car should be hitting fuel cut around 15psi.
 
The benefits of one have never been proven... hmmm well, from what I can tell this will quickly go from a build thread to a rebuild thread. You've got some of the right ideas, but there's still some reading up I would do. Like why to recirculate your bov on the stock air metering system, and possibly how to install things like a boost controller in a less ghetto fashion. An intake clamp?

Don't think I'm knocking you. We've ALL been there. Well, at least I have. But you'll learn very quickly to mod once and mod right. The habit of cutting corners may not seem to affect you here, but as you continue the practice, things get very hairy, very quickly. Like multiple blown headgaskets, because you were too impatient, or lazy, or both, to get the head resurfaced. Ask me how I know....
 
Last edited:
Your BOV should have a dedicated vacuum source, (the one off the intake manifold that you tapped into) you can tap your boost gauge into the fuel pressure line that goes from the FPR solenoid to the FPR.. As for your boost problems.. Take your boost controller off and just run a line from the boost source to the waste gate. Should go back to 7-10 lbs.. And lastly you should definitely still keep the BOV recirc'd..

And if you and Nathan up there want to take a gander at my build feel free!! :thumb: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dsm-build-journals/421047-crash89s-spyder-build.html
 
Any benefit to recirculating a bov? - evolutionm.net


here is a full discussion, since I don't want to start another one on my build journal, on a better note. I smoked my tail lights, and fixed the boost controller mounting. It sits better now... posting pics soon...

Not sure what you took away from that thread but just about every person on there said DO NOT vent unless your running a SD setup.
 
I too thought way back that an unrecirculated BOV was ok, until I almost wasted money trying to fix the problem. I didnt know the resulting idle problems were caused by it. But that was my first turbo DSM and the recirculator hose was never there. People at parts stores told me I needed a new MAF sensor. Got that answer at several places. Then I ran into some random guy when I had the hood up at the last store. We started talking about my car and what was wrong. His first comment was to add the hose to the BOV. I gave it a shot, never had idle problems after that. Didn't need the $200 MAF sensor after all.
 








Does anyone know of a sequential blow off recirculating kit? I couldn't find one
 
Not entirely sure on the big deal about the recirc/unrecirc is. I ran a crushed 1g stock bov for the better part of a decade un-recirculated no issues. However I also had no boost leaks and my bov held with no leaks to 35lbs of boost. The only time your blowing unmeasured air is when its open for that brief second you let off the throttle equalizing the intake pressure to what the MAF is actually reading on the deceleration. As far as stock boost on a t25 13-16 is Max efficiency after that your just waiting for the little grenade to go out. If you tightened the boost controller you closed It to lower the boost you loosen the know.
 
I bought some tint stuff at auto zone it was 12 dollars. it worked really well, you can still see all the lights when you step on the breaks or turn on the turn signals.
 
I threw in a short shifter, it help out so much, I hated the gap between 2nd and 3rd it was ridiculous.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top