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GSX AutoX Street Mod

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I have yet to install my accusump and really need to but was wanting to get the fitting you got made (the 'T' with the 10an). Did someone on here make it for you? I would be willing to buy one from them.

I was on the fence about Nationals and decided not to go this year. I am in a weird spot where I have to tow the car for long distances but don't have a tow rig. A U-haul to Nebraska would be close to a couple grand.

Its a shame that happened to your car. I was looking forward to seeing it continue to do well. Good luck at Nationals. 1300-1400 drivers is going to be nuts


I had my T custom made. Not sure if the gentlemen is still around or not, but I can try and contact him.

I'm stuck in the same boat as you. I'll be driving my Evo out, but would rather tow. And will never race the Talon again until a tow vehicle is secured. With that being said, my Talon will be back and better than ever.

Its my first attempt at Nationals. Wish me luck. LOL
 
I had my T custom made. Not sure if the gentlemen is still around or not, but I can try and contact him.

I'm stuck in the same boat as you. I'll be driving my Evo out, but would rather tow. And will never race the Talon again until a tow vehicle is secured. With that being said, my Talon will be back and better than ever.

Its my first attempt at Nationals. Wish me luck. LOL

Can't wait to see your Talon back out there. It's fun seeing that a few are still making DSMs relevant.

I hear Nationals is still a crazy experience even if you were to just watch. Good luck out there and keep us updated.
 
whats up man! we've been friends on Facebook for a while now, but i just stumbled across your Tuners profile on here. so cool!

haven't seen an update in a while, whats new?

BTW, I'm so happy i stumbled across your build thread, reading about your stutter issue being a rocker arm has given me hope! i can't wait to get home after work today and see if that was my issue all this time! i fought this "misfire" issue for almost 3 months, going through tons of different plugs, wires, new igniters, new coils, literally everything ignition and fuel related i troubleshot, with NO solution in sight.... after getting so fed up with it, i ended up just buying a daily driver and put the GSX on the back burner for a while. dreading the thought of trying to figure out whats wrong with it! so my DSM has been parked since march of 2018 sadly, But you have given me some hope that i can pull off my valve cover and hopefully see a rocker arm just chillin in the head somewhere! haha kinda funny how im hoping for something to be broken but ill take it!!

but seriously such an awesome thread and great info on the life of an autocross DSM, cant wait to hopefully join you this season, it will be my first!
 
whats up man! we've been friends on Facebook for a while now, but i just stumbled across your Tuners profile on here. so cool!

haven't seen an update in a while, whats new?

BTW, I'm so happy i stumbled across your build thread, reading about your stutter issue being a rocker arm has given me hope! i can't wait to get home after work today and see if that was my issue all this time! i fought this "misfire" issue for almost 3 months, going through tons of different plugs, wires, new igniters, new coils, literally everything ignition and fuel related i troubleshot, with NO solution in sight.... after getting so fed up with it, i ended up just buying a daily driver and put the GSX on the back burner for a while. dreading the thought of trying to figure out whats wrong with it! so my DSM has been parked since march of 2018 sadly, But you have given me some hope that i can pull off my valve cover and hopefully see a rocker arm just chillin in the head somewhere! haha kinda funny how im hoping for something to be broken but ill take it!!

but seriously such an awesome thread and great info on the life of an autocross DSM, cant wait to hopefully join you this season, it will be my first!
Thanks man. Autocross is fun. You'll probably be hooked like I was haha. Just worry about learning first, speed comes later. Did your stuttering problem wind up being the rocker arm? Ill post a build update here in a few.
 
My season ended and the result wasn't as good as it should have been. I wound up 2nd again in my class for the season. Part of the issue was me changing so many things throughout the season. Also havent been keeping track of my setup/changes so I don't remember what worked and what didn't. I'll be getting a notebook this year. The other issue was I was the timing/registration chief this year. I was doing alot of the setup and teardown along with being the fixer of timing problems that came up. It was hard to focus on driving and run an event. This year we are going to have more people involved.

Onto the parts. I upgraded my suspension from the Feal 441s to Feal 442s. Double adjustable coilovers and bumped the spring rate up as well. Going from 13k/6k front/rear to 18k/11k. It will be interesting as that is really stiff but Feal recommended it after taking my cars info so we'll see. It doesn't seem too bad on the road with street tires. The hardest part is clearance of the external reservoirs. I forgot to get them extended and might add another 10mm to my wheel spacing for a total of 20mm. I also had them make the shock bodies shorter so I could go lower than the standard 441 kit would let me go. The top is the new 442 coilovers, the bottom is the 441s.
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The second purchase was a set of carbonetics fender flares. They look awesome and I wanted them since @Black95TSIawd installed his. Just waiting on the bolts to show up.
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Im also on the list for the Quaife steering rack group buy setup by @ec17pse . That is going to be awesome with the faster ratio. (GET ON THE LIST! THERE ARE ONLY 30 SPOTS TOTAL AND WE ARE PAST THE HALFWAY POINT!)The electronic power steering being always on might be able to be fixed by a resistor on the power side so it doesn't get full voltage. That way you get the assist but still have the feed back. Thats the plan anyway.
I also need to install the accusump oil accumulator system I bought last year. It was pretty risky to go without it because I was being lazy. I need to redo the splitter mounting setup too. It's pretty sucky.

As long as the cold weather stays away I should be able to start working on the car again.

Also purchased a 78 Datsun 280z since it was a good deal and I have no self control. I will be using it as the track car and the GSX as the Autocross car.
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On the steering racks, there are many options out there for EPS aswel so anyone can do a custom job or choose any kit they wish to use but it just means its going to be down to them for research and to do what has to be done to make it work,

I have had a few people ask about different versions and setups but as i told them im only offering the 1 chaps that has been checked and works with little work involved, other options will still work at the end but need fabrication and custom parts made to allow to fitup and possible allow an ecu/steering ecu to work with minor inputs
 
Its time for a racing season update! Finally the Autocross has started and with a great result. Last Sunday was our first "fun" (shakedown) event.

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Got the front fenders cut for the flares and needed clearance. Super easy of course. I haven't cut into the rear yet because of the double wall in the arch that I would like to have welded back up since I am pretty sure it is somewhat structural. The rear would rub so I raised it up 20mm for now and it didn't rub with the street tire setup.

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Also got the Accusump installed finally. It was easier than I thought it was going to be to route the -10an line. Had to get creative with the routing into the oil filter housing but it works with only 2 extra fittings. The Accusump itself sits behind the driver where the back seat used to be.

Also did a preseason fluid change. Oil, transmission, and transfer case. I thought I had Diaqueen for the rear diff but apparently didn't so had to order it.

Onto the first event. It was an overcast day with the chance of rain on a sealed parking lot about 50-60 degrees. I decided to not run the slicks. Partly because it would have been a poor first heat cycle but I also procrastinated and still don't have the new slicks mounted. The first few runs went well. The street tires on the relatively low grip lot and my AWD beast made for a fun couple of runs. I could rotate wherever I wanted to. Was sitting in 2nd for raw tine overall until the last run where I pulled a half a second off and got 1st overall raw time WITH STREET tires. Granted the lot wasn't the best and the event was only 55 drivers(usually 70+) and everyone was dusting cobwebs off, it looks like it could be a very good season. The new Feal 442 coilovers with higher spring rates feal(<haha) amazing! I didn't mess with compression or rebound because I still need to make sure I understand what I'm doing. Below is the video of the run.
 
There have been 2 points events since the last time I posted. The first one in the beginning of April was fun but wet. The forecast said the rain would stop in the morning so I didn't bring the slicks again because I was in the morning heat. I also switched to Continental Extreme Contact Sports for my wet/road driving tire instead of the RE71s. The RE71s couldn't handle the wet and they wear quickly for driving to and from events so not ideal. The Continentals are amazing in the wet just like everyone said. I was doing 70 on the highway in standing water rain which is unheard of for me and my stiff suspension. My morning runs were fun and sideways. The last 2 runs benefited from the course having dried up. I got 2 good dry runs and it was still good for 4th place raw overall on a non slick(not even the stickiest street tire at 340 treadwear). I don't have a video though.
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Trying to keep the rain out.

I had to raise the rear up about 30mm because they were rubbing and didn't know how to cut the rear panel and retain rigidity. I figured it out after searching all of the guys who do the rocket bunny kits and the drift guys. You cut the outer panel to whatever height you want to remove material. You only remove the outer skin, so you cut in the wheel well right where the outer quarter curves under so you leave as much material on the inside skin as possible.
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Then you make cuts perpendicular to the curve on the inner sheet metal. You want to make the cut go up even to the outer skin so when you bend it you get maximum clearance. Next, get out the grinder and grind off the sealer on the inner skin and the edge of the paint on the outer skin. It's easier to clean the metal for welding now rather than after you bend it. After that, get out the hammer and beat all the tabs so the come up at a 90 to the outer skin.
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I then took it to a local shop and had them put three small spot welds in each tab to weld the 2 together.
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Once welded, cut off the excess and sand it down. I figured the section would be strong again like it was stock and it was. It even seemed a little more rigid. I am definitely not worried about it flexing. I'm going to fill it in/finish the area so there aren't any holes or bare metal to rust away.

Now to the really good part. This past Sunday was another event, no rain this time but it only got up to 60 with 10mph winds so it felt colder. Less than ideal for slicks but dry nonetheless. And what a day it was. The day started out with timing issues so I was running around fixing it in the morning and the delay meant only four runs for everyone. I ran second heat and the sun started to peek put which warmed things up a bit. This was the first day with Hoosiers and the new coilover setup. I was a bit worried about the 18k spring rates up front causing understeer but holy crap it did the opposite. Feal Suspension nailed the 18k front and 11k rear setup. The car had a ridiculous amount of grip. I was extrememly happy with it. The front end had so much grip that the turn in was instant and without understeer. It was so instant that it would cause the back to swing around when I would turn too sharp expecting less turn in response like it was last year. It was all I could do to keep up with how fast everything happens now. Time to learn again. The results spoke for themselves. I put a whole second on everyone. A whole second! I even left some time out there. The results were 1st Raw and 4th in Pax. The 4th in pax was awesome as well. Just a tenth or two faster and I woukd have had a 3rd place plaque for Pax as well. Also, I had no issues with rubbing the tires anywhere so I will lower the rear down 20mm or so and see what happens. It will probably lead to more rear grip because it will level out the car. Below are the videos of this past Sunday. I also got someone to take an external video so I could what it looked like. It looks badass hahah



 
Last Sunday, 5/5, I went to a local regions event. It was a last minute thing that I decided to go. I didn't want to drive the car there and back (6 hour round trip) but renting a truck wasn't worth the cost. So, I packed the car up and headed down to Bowling Green, KY. The drive down was long but uneventful. Their pad is bigger than our usual local pad so I went because I needed the larger course experience on the new setup. The course was wet when I got there but by the time the drivers meeting was over it was good to go. The first few runs went well until the car started acting up. It would break up when giving it more than 50% throttle and have 0 acceleration. In the video you can hear it after the launch and when I go through the finish. I managed a 1st in class and 3rd overall feathering the throttle the whole time so a good result. When I got back home I changed plug wires and spark plugs. The plugs seemed,to,be gapped a bit wide at .026 as I thought I went tighter than that. This time I went to .022. Went out and it pulled all the way to redline. The last time this happened it was on a bigger course and the rocker arm had popped off. It sounded the same but the rockers were fine. I'm starting to think this was some kind of heat soak decreasing spark strength or something. I can't figure out what it is doing everytime this happens. It usually happens in the summertime. On a good note I did manage to get solo storm running and got some decent data. My earlier runs I wasn't having the break up problems.
 
Your car looks great. How hard is it to remove the splitter so it could be driven on the street? I’ve always wondered if or how it could be done.
Back on the first page, posts 21 and 25, it shows how I cut it into 2 pieces. The undertray part stays under the car at all times, its bolted on. The front piece that sticks past the bumper, and a little behind, is the removable section. On post 25 there are 2 little clamps on each side that pull the 2 pieces together while the aluminum flat stock creates a groove to hold it up. Also, the splitter rods are hooked into their mounting points with what are basically smaller versions of hood pins (see attached pic). One splitter rod attachment on each fender and 2 that use the center bumper bolt on area. All I have to do is pull 4 pins and undo the 2 latches by reaching through the stock holes in the bumper and it slide right out. Takes 30 seconds. I do usually leave it on now however. My suspension is stiff enough that normal bumps at decent speeds don't effect me.
 

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That’s what I thought you were describing in those post. That isn’t as hard as I would have initially guessed. Regardless, it’s a great build. I’m looking forward to seeing what you do in the future.
 
Well where to start. I didn't realize it has been since the beginning of July since I last updated. I probably won't do the whole thing in one post. I don't think I'll remember everything but there have been a lot of growing pains with delving farther into a Street Mod prepped DSM. Also, most of the pictures I have are on my phone so I will update with pics because its easier to type from the computer.

Alright, so, beginning of July would have been the Solo National Match Tour and Champ Tour event double header and there were 3 local events between my last post and beginning of July so here they are.



 
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In Mid-June there was another National level event in Toledo, OH. It was a ProSolo. In this event type there are 2 identical mirrored courses. The cars line up in the middle for a drag strip style tree start. Both cars line up at the tree and take off, one doing the left course and the other doing the right course. This was my first of this style and it was very fun. The unfortunate part is cars go up to the line in groups of 12, 6 line up on the left and 6 on the right. After you run on the right course, you line up immediately for the left and then on the left again until you have 3 runs on both sides. This happens twice on Saturday and once on Sunday, for a total of 18 runs. The car got hot quick hot lapping that quickly. I had problems throwing rocker arms again and with the constant back to back it ruined one of my sets of runs. The video has all of the details. This was also my first try on concrete and holy crap! The grip from the Hoosier A7s on concrete is insane.
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The next big event was the Solo National Match Tour and Champ Tour event double header on July 4th weekend (Thurs-Sun). The morning of the first day (Thurs) went OK surprisingly. Fastest run in the morning heat. First 2 were DNFs so the goal was a quick clean run. Probably a little too worried about making a clean run looking at all the space between me and the cones. The afternoon was plagued with more rocker arm issues. One came off violently enough to put a hole in the valve cover.
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I spent the day, Friday, swapping out lifters and also had to source a good valve cover locally. Luckily, I brought the rest of the set of new lifters and found a hole-less valve cover an hour away. I got it back up and running Friday. Portable shade is a must now. I cant believe I hadnt bought a canopy earlier.
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The Saturday and Sunday event I don't remember what happened unfortunately. I do remember it was hot and the car was breaking up but it didn't toss any rocker arms.
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However it did trigger a ticking noise that sounded like it was coming from the head. That noise would be my downfall in the remainder of the season.
 
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I'm not sure how I haven't seen this build thread before, but it was a great read catching up. The car looks great and like it's a ton of fun!
 
I left off after the double header on 4th of July.

The next major event I was preparing for was my first trip to Lincoln, NE to attend the Solo Nationals. This is the actual national event with 1300 drivers and people coming from all over the U.S. The event is held in the first week of September (Labor day weekend) on part of Lincoln Airport. It is a 4 day event. But there were 3 local events between July 4th and September 8th. Now, my story about this ticking noise that "has to be coming from the head, it sounds like its right on the injector #1"(my quote for the first few weeks of denial).

After getting back from July 4th weekend s**t show I had to figure out where the ticking noise was coming from. I figured maybe it was valvetrain related since I basically grenaded a rocker arm through the valve cover. I took the valvecover off and tried to look for anything out of the ordinary and nothing. The next local event was July 14th and instead of taking the GSX(at this point it was in timeout) I took my 78 Datsun 280z. Had a blast, its a little tough countersteering a drift with manual steering though haha. I took the GSX time off to buy, finally, a set of Kiggly High Pressure Beehive valve springs. I think I was hoping this would help out the "noise that is definitely in the head". I used the pressurize the cylinder technique, which was extremely nerve-racking on a 5gal pancake compressor. It was a slow one valve at a time then wait for the compressor to top off and start again.

So I took the GSX to the next event on August 11th. IIRC, I only ran 2 runs before stopping. The "ticking" noise had gotten louder. I drive this car 30 mins to and from events so I needed to make it home. The noise was only happening during transitions from vacuum to positive pressure. I asked everyone their opinions on it and no one could give me an answer. After hoping the whole way back home it would be ok, I made it. The next day I got under the car and got the oil pan off. We can probably guess what I found, the nicest oil with bronze flake. Time to start taking bearings out. After removing rods and mains, the only bad bearing was the #1 rod. The others were mint. Not bad for rebuilding 3 years ago. The bearing hadn't spun yet and no damage to the crank, so in went a new set of bearings. I drove the car for 100 miles or so just to make sure and everything was ok. "Awesome"(says me who thinks he is going to get out of this without a fight).

Next local event is 8/25. While driving to the event the car was quiet. "Great". Driving time comes around and guess whats back? That's right. The ticking noise from the depths of hell. I also called it quits after 2 runs and made it back home.

So now you think, "well now its time for a nice engine rebuild with some better internals, take my time and do it right". WRONG!!! The biggest and most important racing event I have entered is less than 2 weeks away. The car was going to make it to Nationals even if it hated it and it exploded, we were going. In comes the new plan. Replace only the #1 rod bearing again and only turn it on to drive it onto the trailer to Nebraska and off the trailer when I got there. "Surely the bearing could last for 6 runs over 2 days less than 60 seconds a piece", said still naive me. I even went as far to calculate total engine revolutions for 6 minutes of run time at an average of 5500 rpms. Worst case scenario if I made it through the first 3 runs in the first day I could change the bearing out overnight and get 3 more runs on the next day. The next few days were spent packing and lying to myself that it was going to work.
 
The trip to Nebraska was uneventful. The rental truck, a Ram 2500HD diesel, had no problems. Out of the 4 days of racing I raced on the last 2 days. Having the first 2 days to soak everything in and get a feel for how everything worked was great. The paddock had probably 700-1000 cars in it. A sea of everything you could think of stock and fully prepped. There are 2 courses set up at the same time, east and west. 2 courses, 5 heats on each course for 4 days. The 4 days are split up into 2 2-day run groups. The first day is spent on east or west course and the next day is whichever one you didn't race on the day before. It is basically a big party and you race a couple of the days. The sand colored concrete and the perfectly clear blue skies made it feel like the beach. The car was teched and registered and ready to go. Around comes race day.

The morning was nice. I had an early run group so it was before noon when I was racing. Temperature still bearable. The courses were huge and the grip was unlike anything I have ever experienced. Concrete is a gift from engineers to people who enjoy racing cars around relatively small areas. The course starts, however, were lame. The start line was followed 20 feet later by a 90 degree right turn. I wouldn't get to launch my car at all. I had no idea if the car would rotate around the corner and go or go straight through the cone wall 30 feet ahead. The run was not too bad. It was clean which left me room for error, one down 2 to go. After coming through the finish I also remember feeling the need to puke because I was not used to those G's for that amount of time, so that was funny. In the grid, I could hear the ever so slight tick from the bearing. Definitely not loud enough to stop me now. Out for the second run, better but hit a cone or 2 towards the finish. After the second run, I could most definitely hear the rod moving around on the crank. I was apprehensive but my friends said it didn't really sound that bad and my adrenaline won the battle to keep going. I could have stopped and put in a new bearing overnight and ran the next day. The third run was rough. After a turn or two I could hear the rod, in the car with a helmet on, it was on my mind the whole way. Being distracted waiting for the engine to blow up caused me to make mistakes. Along with my power steering pressure issue rearing its head in slaloms, converting power steering to manual.

The car was in bad shape but the first day was over. Back to paddock and immediately began teardown. The #1 rod bearing had spun. Both halves of the bearing were on the piston side of the rod, the crank was trash, and the GSX was down and out for the event. Still having to get it home I put a new bearing in it so I could drive onto the trailer and into the house when I got back. Luckily, it is always good to attend these events with good local friends and I got to borrow a car, a FWD Nissan 200sx on Hoosiers. It runs almost fully prepped FSP and usually got 1st PAX locally. The second race day on the other course was very fun in a borrowed car. FWD was new but the car was very well sorted. I partly think I got to drive to because he drove later in the day and got to look at my videos and input haha. Still greatly appreciated. Many lessons learned and good times were had. Overall it was still a blast of a week even with a broken car. Below is the video of the event. Listen closely and you can hear the knocking on my 3rd run when I let off of throttle. I will update later with pics from the event
 
Here are a few pics of Solo Nationals. The cars were abundant and the variety was huge.
 

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@96dsmftw I saw that you were registered for Nationals. Glad you were there to represent the old dsms. Sucks to hear about the bearing, I wonder what was causing the bearing to keep getting damaged, do you have any ideas?

What's going on with your power steering? Have you modded the pump to bypass the high rpm cutout?

That pic of the splitter scrubbing the ground is awesome.
 
@96dsmftw I saw that you were registered for Nationals. Glad you were there to represent the old dsms. Sucks to hear about the bearing, I wonder what was causing the bearing to keep getting damaged, do you have any ideas?

What's going on with your power steering? Have you modded the pump to bypass the high rpm cutout?

That pic of the splitter scrubbing the ground is awesome.

I think what started it was the July double header in Bristol, TN. The course was long and it was hot. I was being a real dick on the throttle the second event because I was pissed at how things were going. I'm sure that didn't help.

The power steering is cutting out at high rpms, the normal issue. I have done that mod as well and it still gives me problems on really technical courses. Not that much of a problem on one's that are more open and flow better. I am going to try and tackle electronic power steering this off-season if I am lucky.

That picture is my favorite so far for sure. If you mess with brightness the rear inside tire is 1-2in off of the ground. Also, a minor problem that needs addressing. Haha
 
It the pump is locking at high rpm, then a smaller pulley will make it worst, but a bigger pulley will help.

Silvreclips your concept is good, but it’s backwards, a smaller pulley will turn the pump way faster then it is and because is locking at high rpm, then it will lock at lower rpm then what is locking.

A bigger pulley will reduce the turn on the pump and will make less turns at all rpms and will live better.

The only concern will be how it will perfore at lower rpm, like idle or from 1000 to 2000rpm.
 
Have you thought about under driving the PS with a smaller pulley? That sounds easier then changing everything over to electric PS.

I did think about that last season. The problem is the P/S high preasure line goes directly over the pulley. It has maybe a few mm of clearance amd wouldn't gain much from making it that small amount bigger.
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I would have to look into different fittings for power steering lines. Maybe a 90 out to the front of the car and over. I honestly saw the small gap and didn't think about how easy it is to have a p/s line made until now LOL.

About sizing, I am up for ideas. I think about it like this.
Current cutout: 5-6k rpms
Ideal cutout: 7.5k rpms
D1: Stock Diameter
D2: New diameter
5000/D1=7500/D2
D2/D1=7500/5000=1.5=150% increase needed
Or
D2/D1=7500/6000=1.25=125% increase(more likely)

Probably doable with some AN fittings and a bigger pulley.
It the pump is locking at high rpm, then a smaller pulley will make it worst, but a bigger pulley will help.

Silvreclips your concept is good, but it’s backwards, a smaller pulley will turn the pump way faster then it is and because is locking at high rpm, then it will lock at lower rpm then what is locking.

A bigger pulley will reduce the turn on the pump and will make less turns at all rpms and will live better.

The only concern will be how it will perfore at lower rpm, like idle or from 1000 to 2000rpm.

Low rpm I wouldn't mind too much. On course im not under 2500-3000. But it would probably suck more driving around in grid haha
 
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