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95 Eclipse GSX 700bhp on 95-Oct

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Thanks Sartuche, good luck on the find - to the 700whp mark as well.

Oooo, that would be a good break-in drive. I've got friends out in Topeka that I want to meet up with too. Sounds like a good time out there too, it'd be awesome to compare rides too.

So today cleared up somethings: boost leak fixed, engine idle dropped 2K rpms by adding WD-40 to the throttle cable (still requires a few more adjustments)...

The bad news... my fuel pump apparently doesn't like 3rd gear pulls, worked fine in 1st and 2nd (pulls up to 5500) but chokes at 4k in 3rd. Having a Walbro 255HP sent to so I can install that with a -8AN fuel system (future growth reasons) that I just ordered from MK Motorsports (thanks Keri). Hopefully that'll solve that problem, the other news was that I felt some "grinding" on the driveshaft - going to inspect that to make sure everything was installed correctly, may also consider checking the differential itself.
 
Switched over to an external oil cooled system, just need to make the -AN lines and either plug off or recirculate the original coolant lines back into themselves - either way she's coming along. Still waiting on my fuel system and FMIC.
 

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Finished the oil cooler setup, ended up just linking the coolant supply/return lines for the old OFH together with 3/8" fuel line. Refilled with oil and coolant and she operates just fine without leaking! It was a good day today.
 

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Thanks iugrad, currently waiting on a fuel pump to arrive (Walbro 255HP in-tank) to help with the third gear issue of fuel cut, and the throttle issue seems that I need to keep putting WD-40 down in it until either all the rust is gone or possibly replace said throttle cable.

Thanks Tiki! Really appreciate it!

Looking very forward to my top mount arriving next month! Should almost be done soon and shipped as well, that's when the fun begins...:hellyeah:
 
So I changed my starter tonight, come to find out the starter wasn't bad... eh well now I have a limited lifetime warranty on my starter (plus side - sucks it costs $65 w/ core). Anyways, the other "plus" side is I found out why when ever I press the clutch in the lights come on... the pedal was grounding out a live wire in the kick panel - a win for today.
 
Bad news today... old girl had a friendly rub and kiss with a interstate barrier today. Drove about 65 miles before a noticeable knock and lock-up occurred in the rear differential. Put it up on the lift (after being flatbed home) and ran it, nothing showed up so I'm thinking of having it looked at and or serviced to ensure the durability of the gearing in the rear and to make sure it's the correct gearing (covers may have been switched).

In lighter news: fixed the idle by changing out the three vacuum ports on the throttle body - it now idles at approx 900-1000 rpm, fixed the wiper situation (constantly on when fuse installed) - put in a 25A switch with a 20A CB into the fuse box under the kick panel and mounted the switch next to the hood latch release (works just fine now, just have to turn it of when not in use - see pictures), and lastly all oil leaks have now been cleared up and she runs like a charm (except for the differential situation).
 

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Just got word from JMF my exhaust manifold, downpipe and dump tubes are coming along great! Pics attached.
 

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Received, just trying to now get the car shipped so the fitting can begin, still needing to get the oil and coolant system worked out and then it's a matter of wiring harness modification and re-installation.
 

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Excellent work my brother:thumb: Jmf does some great work on their exhaust manifolds very nice wish I went that route vs the one ETS did for me. Keep up the good work following your build closely.:thumb: Still working on mines.

Ps if the kevlar disk doesnt hold you may want to switch to the ceramic disk Tim sells. A good buddy on here of mines( Keltalon) had to upgrade to a ceramic disk because of the massive tq produced by his 2.0 l based on Tims recommendations. The kevlar disk worked great (2yrs constant abuse) but Kels (since upgrading his motor) mentioned that the ceramic seems to hold better. Get in touch with Kels and Tim on this. Just fyi. I may be in the same boat we will see.
 
Thanks guys, yeah JMF did an awesome job on this one, spared no expense on the detail or workmanship. They even ported it to smooth out the openings, it's very awesome work indeed.

I actually plan on switching over to a QM Twin Disc, which worked really well for Tim; it was actually recommended by him as well since I'm building a similar setup as he had (GT4088R).
 
Thanks guys, yeah JMF did an awesome job on this one, spared no expense on the detail or workmanship. They even ported it to smooth out the openings, it's very awesome work indeed.

I actually plan on switching over to a QM Twin Disc, which worked really well for Tim; it was actually recommended by him as well since I'm building a similar setup as he had (GT4088R).

Kool:thumb: Nothing else said then if you spoke to Tim.

Yea JMF I've seen their work in person on my friends gst made my ETS mani look like it was done by students of the game. For 1249.00 I expected better than what I got. I had to have someone port match and do some small fine tuning and cleanup to mines after all the money i paid. Great quality work with the porting fit and finish on the JMF mani. I may switch sell mine and go with that same topmount you have. Spoke with John highly recommended the topmount easier to work with

.Excellent job they did on that downpipe as well I see.
 
Kool:thumb: Nothing else said then if you spoke to Tim.

Yea JMF I've seen their work in person on my friends gst made my ETS mani look like it was done by students of the game. For 1249.00 I expected better than what I got. I had to have someone port match and do some small fine tuning and cleanup to mines after all the money i paid. Great quality work with the porting fit and finish on the JMF mani. I may switch sell mine and go with that same topmount you have. Spoke with John highly recommended the topmount easier to work with

.Excellent job they did on that downpipe as well I see.

They did a great job, you can opt for an extra sensor bung if needed, Jim even gave me a v-band flanged on the back end of the downpipe with an extra weld flange so that I can just add it to my existing exhaust system. Although, I mainly went with their setup only because they seem to be the only ones now that make a setup for the T4 twin scroll... but they hooked me on the port job they do with the build (took about 4 weeks with the porting included).
 
They did a great job, you can opt for an extra sensor bung if needed, Jim even gave me a v-band flanged on the back end of the downpipe with an extra weld flange so that I can just add it to my existing exhaust system. Although, I mainly went with their setup only because they seem to be the only ones now that make a setup for the T4 twin scroll... but they hooked me on the port job they do with the build (took about 4 weeks with the porting included).

Yea nice! ETS Built me 1/2 a downpipe with one v band flange on the end :confused:Go figure! I had to recently buy another V band flange and two v band clamps. I have other complaints about my exhaust stuff after seeing the nice work jmf does but I won't litter your thread. I would recommend JMF to all dsm guys and yes they are the only ones who will build a ts T4 mani for our cars. 4 weeks with everything you got is fantastic. Jmf and Full Race for the evo guys.

Keep up the good work I'm following this till complete! !:thumb:
 
Thanks for supporting my build!

So I finally figured out what I want to do with the engine harness. I have decided to do a cannon plug setup to clean up the engine bay a bit (I have a cosmetic side to my thought process) but in doing so I plan to replace any damaged/worn wiring in the process. Not to mention I have sensors that need deleted and other that need modified to meet the upgrade they most likely got. Pictures to come once the engine harness is done.
 
I like the cannon or amphenol cable setup. Thats a good idea and I might go that route with mine. It's gonna be some work but in the end it will look nicer. Would be awesome if you need to pull the motor all you have to do is disconnect the connector at the firewall and remove the engine. Build is coming along nice can't wait to see the finished product man.
 
I like the cannon or amphenol cable setup. Thats a good idea and I might go that route with mine. It's gonna be some work but in the end it will look nicer. Would be awesome if you need to pull the motor all you have to do is disconnect the connector at the firewall and remove the engine. Build is coming along nice can't wait to see the finished product man.
That is actually the way BMW and Mercedes does it:thumb: amphenol cable setup. Makes life easy as long as those pins stay moisture free.
 
Yeah that's the way to to one disconnect plug like eric with his 2g fuse box relocation, temped to do one myself one day.
 
Well I've confirmed it, I'll post pictures of it's completion, I may do a tech write up similar to theirs so everyone can do the cannon plug setup with little to no trouble (I build them for a living in the USAF). I also plan on fixing my interior wiring harness (under dash). But for now I'm going to finish something that should have been done a LONG time ago and that's my ignition coil harness, I'm putting a cannon plug on that one as well, which will be tied into the engine harness and then to the ECU. Although I completely forgot, I need to find a place to put my coils... may have to have someone fab me a bracket to mount it on the wall or rear engine (haven't decided).

Again, will post pictures once the ignition harness is done. Oh and I've decided to build the engine harness from scratch since all the ones I have or so damaged and brittle that the wiring is mostly likely not going to last too long - and I wanted a challenge. The only thing that will suck is that I've limited the colour scheme down to 12 colours, but I don't plan on ridding of Rikka [ever]. Cost actually isn't too bad either... for the smallest spools of wiring they average $24/50ft (which isn't bad for shipment to UK). Updates to come! Keep it posted guys, this is just the beginning... hehe.:thumb:

Can't wait to make that 700awhp...
 
Well I've confirmed it, I'll post pictures of it's completion, I may do a tech write up similar to theirs so everyone can do the cannon plug setup with little to no trouble (I build them for a living in the USAF). I also plan on fixing my interior wiring harness (under dash). But for now I'm going to finish something that should have been done a LONG time ago and that's my ignition coil harness, I'm putting a cannon plug on that one as well, which will be tied into the engine harness and then to the ECU. Although I completely forgot, I need to find a place to put my coils... may have to have someone fab me a bracket to mount it on the wall or rear engine (haven't decided).

Again, will post pictures once the ignition harness is done. Oh and I've decided to build the engine harness from scratch since all the ones I have or so damaged and brittle that the wiring is mostly likely not going to last too long - and I wanted a challenge. The only thing that will suck is that I've limited the colour scheme down to 12 colours, but I don't plan on ridding of Rikka [ever]. Cost actually isn't too bad either... for the smallest spools of wiring they average $24/50ft (which isn't bad for shipment to UK). Updates to come! Keep it posted guys, this is just the beginning... hehe.:thumb:

Can't wait to make that 700awhp...

This would be awesome. I'm looking at doing this with my build. But I've never built a harness before so I'm up for the challenge. I like the capability of being able to disconnect the entire harness at the firewall which makes removal a lot easier. Plug selections is where am most lost at. I've been looking at LADD Distribution | Environmentally Sealed Electrical Connectors | DEUTSCH Connectors for my connectors.
 
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