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95 Eclipse GSX 700bhp on 95-Oct

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Moonlight GSX

10+ Year Contributor
553
49
Nov 16, 2010
Hagerman, Idaho
Well as the title states this is the road to producing a car that will be come the most awesome weekend warrior my money can buy, yes that means it'll take some time as I'm broke. Anyways this isn't about me it's about the car well right now the only thing in the works is the engine and suspension but I'll have more pictures once the car has been shipped to the UK as right now my home-station is over here so yeah it'd be good to get it here so I get the work really started.

Currently this is what I plan to do - this is tentative only because things change and well know this but here's "The List."

1995 Eclipse GSX Mod Listing
Engine:
1. 97-99 7-bolt (Thrust Bearing) short block
a. Manely DIY Rotating Assembly 7-bolt (Evo 8/9)
i. Thrust bearing
ii. 100mm stroke (stock 4G64)
iii. Manley Turbo Tuff Beam w/ ARP 2000's
b. Block Machining – The Works
i. Black
ii. Sending Core
2. 95-99 Stage 4 Custom Built Cylinder Head
d. Kiggly Beehive Springs and Retainers
e. Supertech Bronze Magnesium Valve Guides – Precision Honed
f. 272 Kelford Cams
g. 95-96 Cam Sensor
h. AEM Tru Time Cam Gears – Black
i. Stage 2 Porting
j. 1mm Oversized Valves
k. Send Core

Fuel System:
1. STM -6AN Fuel Tank to Rail Kit
a. Black Fuelab Filter
2. STM -6AN Fuel Return Kit
a. Black Regulator
b. Standard Regulator (-10AN inlet/-6AN outlet)
3. FIC Blue Max 1350cc Fuel Injectors
4. Walbro 255lph In-Tank Fuel Pump
5. Walbro 255lph In-Line Fuel Pump
6. –AN to Barbed Fitting adapter (to be modded to fuel hanger)
a. -6AN (black) – send line
b. -6AN (black) – return line

ECU:
1. DSMLink V3 (FULL)

Exhaust/Turbo System:
1. 3" Custom Downpipe
2. 3" High Flow Catalytic Converter
3. Megan Racing 3" CAT-Back Exhaust System
4. Garrett GT4088R Turbocharger
a. T4 Divided .85 A/R
b. T04S (4" Inlet/ 2.5" Outlet)
5. STM Proclassic Oil Return Kit
a. GT Series Turbo
b. Oil Return Kit 95-99 (Proclassic)
6. ARP Turbo Bolts
7. JHR Racing Divided Twin Scroll T4 GT40R Exhaust Manifold
8. TiAL V-Band Wastegate (x2)
a. MV-S 38mm
b. MV-R 44mm
9. Manual Boost Controller
10. Wideband UEGO Sensors/Gauges (for accurate AFR reading)
11. Oil Feed/Drain Setup
a. Oil feed-line kit w/ 15 micron filter (head location) 90-99 Eclipse - Extreme PSI
b. .035 restriction fitting
Intake/Intercooling System:
1. Extreme Turbo Systems FMIC
a. HKS Blow Off Flange
b. T3/T4 w/ 2.5" Turbo Outlet
c. Powder Coated Flat Black
d. Speed Density
i. ECM Tuning Speed Density Plug n' Play harness
ii. SD Bundle (MAP, IAT, pigtails and bung)
e. 3" Intercooler (thickness)
f. No ETS stencil
g. Include 2x – 2.5" to 3.25" Transistor Couplers
h. No Anodizing
i. Black Couplers
2. JM Fabrications "Street Version" SMIM
a. 1G '90 – '94 Throttle Body (required)
 
Drivetrain/Transmission
1. T.R.E. Stage 3 Transmission
a. Clutch Fork
b. Throw-Out (T.O.) bearing
c. Slave Cylinder
d. OEM Gear Ratios
e. Single Synchro 1st, 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears
f. Double Synchro 2nd gear
g. Gear detail
h. Torrington bearing upgrade
i. High intensity shot peening of gears
j. T.R.E. 4 Spider centre differential
2. Driveshaft Shop
a. Aluminum Rear Shaft (650HP)
b. Level 2 (650HP) Front Axles
c. Level 2 (650HP) Rear Axles
3. Transfer Case
a. Trade in old core for new/rebuilt transfer
4. Rear Differential
a. JDM EVO-III Limited Slip Rear Differential
Brakes, Steering, and Control
1. EVO-VIII Calipers
a. 4-piston front
b. 2-piston rear
2. Goodridge SS Brake Lines
3. Drilled/Slotted rotors
4. JDM Galant Legnum front knuckles (160mm spaced bracket)
5. MasterPro Front Hubs
6. OEM Rear Hubs
7. OEM Rear Control Arm w/ ball-joint (DS/PS)
8. OEM Rear Trailing Arm (x2)
9. OEM Front Lateral Control Arm (DS/PS)
10. OEM Lower Front Control Arm (DS/PS)

Some of this has already been gotten but it's a work in progress, keep tabs this should be good.

Got the block painted - lookin' good so far! Still need to clean out the oil/coolant ports due to the bead blasting to remove the previous rust that was on the block... (bead blast and powder coat completed by Sakura Motors in Pennsylvania).
 

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Nice paint job.. Should go fast with that! LOL j/k.. Good luck man gonna be alot of work :hellyeah: 700bhp!!!
 
Nice paint job.. Should go fast with that! LOL j/k.. Good luck man gonna be alot of work :hellyeah: 700bhp!!!

Haha, yeah - it was pretty bad before I had this done. Extreme rust, it was bead blasted twice due to so much rust... thanks! I hope I can get there we'll see, just waiting for the rotating assembly to arrive now.

Received my pistons today (June 6th)! Just waiting on the rest of the kit to arrive, but I can at least have the machine shop bore the block to them. It's moving along nicely.
 

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Clean!! Dang you could eat dinner off those things! LOL.. Very cool, gonna be a bad ass build..

I would love to see pictures as this thing goes together..:thumb:
 
Good luck, that's a huge number especially on pump gas.

A few things you might want to change up. Why ECMLink and AEM?? Why only 1350 CC injectors, manual boost controller, wally's 255 in tank?

Suggestions would be:

2150 or 22200 cc injector
DSMlink
DSMLink's boost control solenoid
wally 450 in tank, you never know if you'll switch to E85 (unless you can't get it there)
 
Good luck, that's a huge number especially on pump gas.

A few things you might want to change up. Why ECMLink and AEM?? Why only 1350 CC injectors, manual boost controller, wally's 255 in tank?

Suggestions would be:

2150 or 22200 cc injector
DSMlink
DSMLink's boost control solenoid
wally 450 in tank, you never know if you'll switch to E85 (unless you can't get it there)

Sorry need to edit the AEM, I actually currently own a DSMLink V3 (brand new from ECMLink). I think when I did the list I forgot to change some things as it was already typed up on a word doc. But yeah from what Tim said the injectors will be fine but unless I switch to E85 they won't have a problem I'd like to max them but with a useable power band (which is the end goal - 700whp is just a number I'm aiming for but probably will fall short of). Although I may wind up switching to E85 in the future if I can eek more power out of it and keep that powerband instead of being a top end runner.

Although I'm still debating whether or not to run an electronic boost controller or use the one in DSMLink with a controller in the engine bay... I guess for now it's one of those projects that will most likely change over time but will attempt to say in the same lines as what was projected. Thanks for the advice though, I'll have to look into that - may even change the outcome but for now the 1350cc will do until I kill them... not exactly a goal but you get what I mean. That I know of, I don't think I can get it here but I haven't looked either... if it is here I'm sure I'd go broke buying it (more so than I would in the States).
Oh and got the crank in yesterday!
 

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from someone that has worked in a machine shop i would have the block hot tanked and scrubbed several times to make sure all the blasting media is out of the galleys before you even think of putting anything together. You cleaning it for a month everyday will still turn up glass beads. And I hope that the blasting they did on the bearing perches didnt screw anything up with the clearances behind the bearing. Any shop i have seen that blasts engine blocks never touch the bearing surfaces.
 
from someone that has worked in a machine shop i would have the block hot tanked and scrubbed several times to make sure all the blasting media is out of the galleys before you even think of putting anything together. You cleaning it for a month everyday will still turn up glass beads. And I hope that the blasting they did on the bearing perches didnt screw anything up with the clearances behind the bearing. Any shop i have seen that blasts engine blocks never touch the bearing surfaces.

Hmm, well I'll have to see and find out. *crosses fingers* Lets hope that nothing serious has been bestowed upon my block... thanks for the advice.
 
With all of this blast media talk. A proper shop would do your motor with either Walnut shell, Soda, Or even plastic bead. I prefer to use soda on parts that need to be CLEAN, As all you have to do is spray the block down with a hose since the soda is water soluble. Good luck, Id be checking your filter often for the first few months.
 
With all of this blast media talk. A proper shop would do your motor with either Walnut shell, Soda, Or even plastic bead. I prefer to use soda on parts that need to be CLEAN, As all you have to do is spray the block down with a hose since the soda is water soluble. Good luck, Id be checking your filter often for the first few months.

soda is awesome but crazy messy if being done in a shop. but its great because hot tanking removes it all. the glass beads get stuck everywhere and are stupid hard to get out. its why you have to remove the baffles in a VC if you blast it because no matter how good you thing its cleaned there are always more waiting to come out and contaminate the oil.
 
soda is awesome but crazy messy if being done in a shop.

its why you have to remove the baffles in a VC if you blast it because no matter how good you thing its cleaned there are always more waiting to come out and contaminate the oil.

I actually have a "Dustless" Soda system. It basically runs down the drain of the garage. I also do powder coating and have experimented to see how much bead I can remove before taking out the baffle. I bet there is at least a tea spoon that comes out even after washing for 2 hours! I would be VERY leery of blasting a block for that reason. Oil ports are just traps for that stuff, as are threads. Even cast metal its self traps it all.
 
Well I guess I was lied too about the compression on my engine, did my own and found that I lost all compression in my #1 cylinder... here's what we found after we removed the head...:mad:

Note: This is on my old block not my new one.
 

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Looks like your valve did a tap dance on your piston :|

O I edit that's not even the low side hmm so nevermind

Nah, it melted. But it's all good finally getting it rebuilt for about $900 to include valves, springs and whatnot. Much cheaper than having it done in the UK (about $600 for only head work - no installations).
 
They cleaned up the head and got all the parts ordered, come to find out that one of the valve seats (the one with the burnt valve) was damaged and now they have to order one or fabricate/cut a new one to replace it. But everything else is moving along smoothly, so far the estimated total cost with all the parts and machine work is roughly $950.
 
Just curious how do you guys get ahold of TRE? I have called and called multiple times along with sending multiple emails?

They might be busy, as they just recently moved to a new location so they were probably behind at that time but that may have been almost a year or so ago. I'd try emailing again and then wait a bit to give them time to respond.
 
Just received notification that my connectors came in for my ignition harness for the use of AEM "Smart" coils - just have to go pick them up. I'll start building the harness once MAPerformance sends me my coils! Can't wait to get this going.
 
So far so good on the wiring harness, will be running this by work so I can do a proper job on the splicing of the GND, Sensor GND, Battery Neg, and SW Battery Positive (+12V) on connectors two through four - tied into connector one. Lets hope everything ohms out well!:hellyeah:
 

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