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Posted by gotrocket07, Apr 12, 2011
420A Bolt-on Tech - Intake, exhaust, ignition, fuel system, cooling, etc - specific to 2G N/T DSMs. New Members must limit their 420A tech posts to this forum.
Autozone with the plug, it fixed the issue and never happened again.
I also discovered a very noticable hesitation/miss when accellerating at WOT, and the tach will jump erratically when it does this (Jumping +/- 500rpm). Did you have this problem also? I've pulled the fuel filter and replaced it, with no improvement on the hesitation/miss.
The 95's are on the firewall right underneath the throttle body and the 96+ are under the car near the fuel tank on the passenger side. Didn't want him to tell you where his was and have you lookin on your firewall for hours on end
Same thing happened to me. At times when i would come to a stop sign or a light the car would stall out. It's not a regular occurrence either, i does it whenever it wants. The car fires right up also after it stalls also!
I have no clue were to look anymore.
Also on a related note the car shutters on the highway also for a split second and goes back to normal as if nothing never happened. I was thinking that it was the torque converter lockup, locking and unlocking, so i took a look at my fluid and all was good.
Any help would be appreciated it seems like these are common problems on the 420a's
There is a thread around here of someone changing the crank sensor and it solved it.
Nope no cel, unfortunetly since it's a 95 the car is obd1 so I ended up doing the key dance method, but resulted with no codes. So I picked up a new crank sensor and will change it out when I change the oil.
A little late to respond, I know, but your care still has an OBDII plug and just about any ISO/OBDII code scanner will work with it.
It's not difficult to replace. It's right above the oil filter on the back of the block. It's held in with a single bolt; simply unplug the electrical connector, remove the bolt, and pull the sensor out.
I should mention that it's likely your ECU is faulty. Most of the symptoms in this thread sound like a bad ECU to me -- the '95 ECU was particularly prone to problems. My car did the exact same thing, randomly shutting the engine off. Only replacing the ECU solved the problem.
Was told it was the ECU I changed it and same thing.
Because I was a lot younger, I ended up having to take it to a shop.
They replaced the cam sensor and it solved the problem.
But only temporarily, it started doing it again and I took it to a different shop.
They said my timing belt was "slipping", they changed it and it never died again.
I sold that car to my homey and he totaled it in less than 2 weeks.
But I would definitely check the ECU, ASD relay and Cam sensor first.
You should read through this thread here, some more info on this subject.
Thanks. That helps to point out a possible solution. Any idea where I could get a good ECM that might not have these issues? My car is a daily driver, so I guess a performance ECM is not a good option. Or could it be? Anybody ever added one to their ride and if so, does it effect gas mileage?
Ok. Well with that being said, I looked around and found out that some of us use remanufactured ECM's. Does that mean that they have been reflashed to eliminate the issues that 95 ECM's were experiencing; or does it mean something different?
Has anybody got a picture of the location? I'm having trouble locating the fuel filter.
Mitsubishi, eBay, your local junkyard, the DSMtuners or 2GNT classifieds sections, almost any other running '95...
The only "performance" PCM on the market is from Howell Automotive. If they ever ship one to you, you would still need a working core. I recommend sticking with the stock version.
It's not a firmware problem, certain PCM's had faulty circuit boards. After years of use, the layers would delaminate in specific areas. You just need to find another one from a known-working car.
Does Mitsubishi even carry ECMs for 95 Talon ESi's?
Ok I understand, but my car is working and it wants to cut when I drive it sometimes and then run directly after. So from what I am reading (and thank you for all the information by the way) it will be kind of a trial and error on getting one that might not have these issues. The af/x requires a core ... and that means ...? Sorry man, I am just trying to learn and understand before I buy. I appreciate all your help. I do know of a salvage yard about 50 minutes away that has ECMs for my car. I'll check and make sure. I just didn't want to buy one with the same issues.
They ought to. The dealership near me used to sell remanufactured PCM's for about $250.
Yeah... we've been through this...
Stop overthinking it, just buy another one that works. My car did the same thing, so I replaced the PCM with another from a member on 2GNT: problem solved.
It means you send them a working PCM in exchange for the AF/X unit, or pay a lot more for it.