93' TSI Street Bruiser

[6772owner]

Hello everyone, this is my first build on the forum, been lurking around for many years though. A little background on me, I was bitten by the DSM bug about 12 years ago when I met a mutual friend that had a Talon TSI AWD, one ride w/boost and I was hooked! Apx 2 years later I scored my own Talon AWD (1GA), that I picked up cheap (a mutual friend had a wrecked car I rebuilt). I unfortunately had to sell the car shortly after getting it back on the road and vowed I would return someday!

That day came about 10 years later... I recently traded my current car for a 93' Talon TSI (FWD), 83,xxx on the shell, includes two engines and many other extras. The car had the engine pulled (stock engine was damaged years ago) but came with a Slowboy Racing complete engine (I believe it is a stage II, TBD)

Plans are to put the car back together and get it running with what I have, then mod/upgrade from there.

Here are some pics from picking up the car.

List of current parts I have found/dug out so far:

ECM link kit (cable, CD, socketed ECU, etc)
Dejon Tool short runner SMIM
Dejon Tool I/C piping for SMIC
Crushed factory BOV
GM MAF w/correct pigtail from ECM Tuning
Near new 14B (clean, no shaft play)
Braided turbo oil feed line and return line
DNP tubular manifold
3 different valve covers (polished, Hyundai & OE)
Clear & stock upper timing cover
Aeromotive FPR w/braided line kit
Poly engine/trans mounts
Wally 255 pump (rewired)
Battery Relocated
3" Downpipe
Aftermarket 3" cat
2.5" Pacesetter cat back exhaust
Leather interior, clean carpet and all intact
AWD front calipers (dual piston)
Braided Clutch line
Aluminum Flywheel w/new stock clutch
Slim aftermarket fans
Good all season tires on OE wheels
Coil-On-Plug Conversion
Custom air intake

SBR Engine has Kelford 272 cams, Greedy Cam Gears, Dayco HD T-belt
Manley valve springs (TBD)
H beam rods (TBD)
New tensioner, idlers, water pump, etc
BSE kit
More to be discovered/determined

Here are some more pics from picking up the car...

I also need some help identifying what injectors I have, do the numbers on them correlate to the seize/CC's? Here are the pics..

I would just like something close to stock, I can put whatever size into Link, so it shouldn't matter, I'm just worried about the impedence...

 

[92srt4laser]

I belive the blue tops with "b450L" are stock low impedence Injectors as that's what came on my 92 laser.

Also backed by what ericbev posted here

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/221081-injector-identification.html

"The corresponding numbers should be on the injector.

Non-Turbo 1.8L - N210H Injectors-casting #INP-057 (210cc High Impedance)
Non-Turbo 4G63 - N240H Injectors-casting #INP-059 (240cc High Impedance)
Turbo 4G63 A/T - B390L Injectors-casting #INP-008 (390cc Low Impedance)
Turbo 4G63 M/T - B450L Injectors-casting #INP-009 (450cc Low Impedance)
2G Turbo BlackTops -MDL450 casting #IPN-081 (450cc Low Impedance)
2.4 - MDH275-casting #IPN-065 (275cc High Impedance)
JDM motors that came with the B16G had yellow 510cc injectors"


Nice score btw! Looks like you can make a solid runner with what you have there

 

[92AWDHX40]

The pink ones look like evolution 560s I had some before. Nice car.

 

[6772owner]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the info, so are the Evo injectors low impedance as well? Would I have to change the connectors to use them?

 

[92AWDHX40]

I just put mine in easy plug in play.

 

[6772owner]

Nice, that is awesome, so they should work well until I upgrade turbos. I appreciate the info!

Now next question(s) I have concern the engine... the PO bought the engine apx 3-4 years ago and I'm worried about what I should before I install it... do I need to remove the oil pan and check the crank end play? Check/retorque the mains & rods? Do I need to add assembly lube or is there a way to pre-prime the oil system on these? I've never opened up/dealt w/a brand new 4G63 before... I was guessing I could remove the t-belt (tensioner still locked) and spin up the oil pump (after adding oil of course) to prime the engine? Advice/suggestions please!

Also, do you guys think I can call SBR w/the numbers stamped into the block & head to find out all the parts used on this build? I have no idea what rods/pistons/compression the engine is or what valves/springs/retainers were used... the block has "685" and the head has "670"

 

[92AWDHX40]

Don't be afraid to open it up that s how I learned post some pics when you can.

 

[6772owner]

Ha Ha fair enough, will do, I still need to haul home both engines, I ran out of time and didn't have an engine hoist when I picked up the car. I'll get more pics soon, hoping to pick them up in the next week or two... I'll get some interior pics and such soon also.

 

[92srt4laser]

Before I started my car,(it had been dead for months before I bought it) I just pulled the pan and valve cover, had a good poke around to make sure there wasn't any obvious problems, re torqued the head studs, filled it with Brad Penn and that was it. To primw I unplugged the cam position sensor and plug wires so I could run the starter, and cranked it till the oil seeped out of the cam caps. Threw the valve cover on and was good to go. Just make sure its in time and the turbo has oil before you start it! Just my $.02 good luck man!

 

[6772owner]

Thanks Laser, I'm just concerned because the engine is brand new and has never been started... It has sat around for years and I am concerned about wear on initial start (or from turning it over before it builds oil pressure) I also didn't know how the oiling system flows, priority wise and didn't want parts to starve for lubrication before oil pressure is built up while cranking the starter... This engine has never seen oil and I'm not sure how they are shipped from SBR... I wasn't sure if I could/should fill the engine w/oil and run the oil pump with a drill or something to build some pressure/lubrication before I install it in the car..

 

[Ghost_92TSi]

Pull the MPI fuse on the battery, It will let you crank and build pressure too. I usually do this with a new build. I usually do it three times and wait to see the pressure reflect on the gauge. Then, I plug it back in and fire it up.

 

[6772owner]

Ok cool, sounds good to me then, thanks for all the help guys!

 

[92srt4laser]

Yeah its always smart to play it safe with lubrication on new parts. If your really concerned you can pull the cams off and use a little wheel bearing grease on all the friction surfaces, and soak the lifters in a cup of oil overnight to avoid initial lifter tick. It's a little time consuming but worth it for peace of mind. I dont belive that the bottom end needs anything other than some time cranking to pre oil but I'm sure spinning the oil pump wouldn't hurt! ps. If doing that always torque the cam caps to 15 lbs (unless otherwise stated by SBR)

 

[6772owner]

I agree, Im just paranoid about this expensive engine that I dont know everything about!

I think I will probably do some of those steps while it is on the stand and easier to work with.

 

[6772owner]

Sorry I havent updated everyone, I still dont have any more pics of the car... but I do have some parts pics!

I am lucky enough to have access to a sandblaster at work, so I started cleaning up and painting some of the engine items for assembly. Im not super confident that the paint will hold up on the manifold and O2 housing, but it will keep the rust off until I run the engine at least.

Anyway, here are the pics, let me know what you think...

 

[92AWDHX40]

I never used that high heat paint, not sure how it holds up.

 

[6772owner]

I agree, I have only used it for brackets and such bolted to the engine, never exhaust parts. I found some "flame proof" stuff the other day (good to 2000*), so I may try that next.

Ok all, I did some more blasting and painting today, here are some pics. I will get some more of the car and interior tomorrow.

 

[6772owner]

More pics, more blasting, more painting, etc

Interior:

 

[6772owner]

Ok I picked up some of the flame proof paint and painted the turbo, I also painted a few more items for the engine.

The sand blaster I've been using.

 

[6772owner]

Update: I ordered a bunch of 194 LED's so I can change over the park lamps (F+R), the cluster bulbs, the glovebox, dome light, center console, etc. I chose blue for the gauges, amber front (clear lenses), red rear and white for everything else... I am hoping it comes out ok, I have done about the same thing to the last two cars of mine and it made a big difference.

I also blasted and painted some more items today, will add more pics later.

 

[6772owner]

Ok more pics, I missed one of the OFH... I also went and picked up the stock engine, still need to get the SBR engine though.

 

[6772owner]

Update: Yesterday I hooked up the clutch cancel wire for Link, then I put the center console, side panels and under dash pad back on. I need to clean up and reinstall the gauge cluster/bezel next. I also ordered some gaskets and the injector o-ring set.

I then started working on the hatch area, battery has been relocated, but not completely finished... I need to finish the trim panels, install the carpet and clean up the wiring.

Also have a question, any ideas how I can remove the paint from the center section w/o damaging the panel.... Any suggestions? I was thinking either wet sanding or maybe a chemical cleaner?

 

[serviceguy]

You can wet sand it and then use one of those lens restoration kit to give it its shine back. I would personally keep it black though (but as you can see from my avatar I'm biased).

 

[6772owner]

Ha ha OK cool, thanks, I mostly want to remove the flat paint and then use night shades w/clear instead... I'd rather it be glossy black to match the roof.

Update: I placed an order w/STM yesterday for a bunch of little OEM stuff, got copper washers, brake/clutch pedal covers, TOB & clip, crank bolt, etc. Still havent picked up the engine, hoping to do so this weekend, I have been slammed at work (we're moving) and work a part time job for extra cash.

 

[6772owner]

Painted a few interior items (PO had painted them blue, too rice for me) and I swapped all the dome/courtesy lights for LED's. I also received some more parts I ordered, just need to get the engine so I can assemble it.

Question: Does anyone have a good WGA for the 14B I can buy? I don't currently have one and not sure if I should buy an aftermarket adjustable one?