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93 Talon TSI Fuel / Idle / Clutch Problem NEED ADVICE

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Ju-STI-n-721

Probationary Member
29
3
Nov 16, 2014
Dayton, Ohio
Due to the fact that my old daily driver (02 WRX) got rear ended a few weeks ago, I was finally able to find the car I've really always wanted (1g DSM) two days ago :). The car is compleatly 100% stock, garage kept, rust free, and in excellent looking condition. (No clear coat peel, no head gasket seep, etc..) Picked the car up a few hundred miles away from where I live. The car ran great on the way back. The next morning was a different story. When I attempted to start the car it would not fire. I was able to spray some ether into the air box in and get the car fired up. Once it started it seemed to run fine at first. I then started driving the car and lost some pressure in the clutch and had to pump the pedal in order for it to build up pressure and function properly. Lastly I the car began to idle very inconsistently (sometimes at 21k rpms, sometimes at 16k rpms, sometimes at 11k rpms) once it warmed up. Tomorrow is my day off work and I plan on going through the car and attempting to straighten things out. The talon had been sitting for a few years was garage before I got it, so I know that it will need some basic maintenance along with new current problematic parts (plus the car is getting close to historical vehicle status). So here's where I'm at right now:


1.) My diagnosis = High idle could be caused by either boost leak, me spraying ether into the air box and damaging the air sensor, vacuum being pulled from bad clutch master and/or slave cylinder, bad or dirty idle control valve, or more than likely bad/disfunctioning fuel pump/filter/injectors.


2.) My game plan = Empty rest of bank account in the morning and go to the local auto parts store and misty dealership. Buy new clutch master cylinder, new clutch slave cylinder, new fuel filter, new fuel pump, plugs, plug wires, valve cover gasket ( it's barley leaking but I'm rather tedious about my cars ), belts, air filter, and oil change. I also plan on cleaning the injectoes, idler control valve, and air sensor along with performing a boost leak test and more than likely running several new vacuum lines. Lastly I plan on running fuel system cleaner the car once I get it back together and am hopefully going for a victory cruise (but we all know how working on cars goes when it comes to what's planned and what actually happens :ohdamn:)


3.) Once the car is straightened out the only aftermarket modifications I possibly plan on doing are a dejon intake/high flow filter and turboback exhaust (this is not going to be my fast car by any means just a DD). Am I missing anything that would be necessary to upgrade in order to support these minor modifications?


4.) MOST IMPORTANTLY, Is there any diagnosis advice / install advice / mod advice / parts I should replace in addition advice that any of you gurus can give me?
 
I wish my car would rev to 21k rpms WTF LOL, on a serious note it sounds like you have a nice game plan!
 
yes sir. CLEAN EVERYTHING OUT!! can't stress that enough. sounds great tho. before u go buying stuff, give this a try!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOo-u67KxgU

friends car was noticably quicker and more responsive after doing this.

but take apart
your fuel system and clean it out and check your plugs as well.

Nice video ! Put a solid 8-10 hours in on the car today. Installed all new parts as mentioned above. The car is idling perfect, clutch feels like new after putting in over an hour of time to get the adjustable arm on the master cylinder just right. Went on a cruise to the gas station to fill up and test the car out. A tire blew up on the way to the gas station....... pulled the talon into a parking lot and changed to spare then the car wouldn't start again. Lucky I still had a can of starting spray in the back seat and I used it to get the car going again and get it home. Any idea for the inconsistent starts even after a new fuel pump, fuel filter, cleaned check valve and cleaned injectors?
 
Nice video ! Put a solid 8-10 hours in on the car today. Installed all new parts as mentioned above. The car is idling perfect, clutch feels like new after putting in over an hour of time to get the adjustable arm on the master cylinder just right. Went on a cruise to the gas station to fill up and test the car out. A tire blew up on the way to the gas station....... pulled the talon into a parking lot and changed to spare then the car wouldn't start again. Lucky I still had a can of starting spray in the back seat and I used it to get the car going again and get it home. Any idea for the inconsistent starts even after a new fuel pump, fuel filter, cleaned check valve and cleaned injectors?
Glad I could help! Welcome to tuners and the DSM community :rocks:!! hmm could you take a log for us to look at? There may be a short somewhere. First adjust your BISS and what not. this link might be helpful to get that worked out. It was mentioned above.

http://www.dsm.org/how-tos/tttt/tttt3.html

Also this is always good to look at after buying a DSM.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/dsm-maintenance-guide.476550/
 
I know this thread has been dormant for a while. But I'm having an issue with the car again. Same problem as before. Could I possibly have a clogged / stuck injector that is causing my car not to start properly? Unfortunately I do not have a dsm link therefore I cannot provide any logs, but I'm thinking try a new set of 450s to possibly solve my issue?
 
I had a nostart issue before. turned out to be my coolant temp sensor[DOUBLEPOST=1417563320][/DOUBLEPOST]oh and with my nostart, the starting fluid would get it to start every time
 
Cleaned every sensor. Except the 02. Already replaced fuel pump, filter, plugs, wires, and check valve by fuel pump. Car is getting good spark on all four cylinders. Therefore I'm almost positive the coil pack is good. When it's cold, it's hard to start and start spray gets it going every time. That's why I'm convinced it's a fuel issue and the injectors are the only thing i haven't replaced there yet. Also on cold starts it takes a while until I'm able to Rev the car above 2k rpms.
 
Sounds to me like its the coolant temp sensor. Check the wiring they are old and brittle, could have broken off easily.
 
Sounds to me like its the coolant temp sensor. Check the wiring they are old and brittle, could have broken off easily.

After searching through several threads on here, I have found that to be a somewhat of a common issue that prevents these cars from starting as well. I know that there are multiple coolant sensors (atleast on a 2g because that is what i've read about on here). I assume that there is more than one collant sensor on my 1g as well. Which one would more than likely be causing the problem? The one on the thermostat housing?
 
Sounds to me like its the coolant temp sensor. Check the wiring they are old and brittle, could have broken off easily.

OK just replaced the coolant temp sensor, Intake, intercooler piping, all vacuum t 's, throttle body gasket, and a bunch more, car still is having trouble starting. Should I pull the trigger on injectors or better yet what else should I order along with them ?
 
Do a continuity test from temp sensor to ecu.

I am somewhat mechanically inclined, but I am not entirely aware of what a continuity test entitles? If this helps, I installed a wideband and a boost guage in order to get more accurate readings on my car's performance. My afrs seem to be on point (14.7 a idle and 10.8 at open throttle) also the car is hitting 14 psi. The problem is that it feels like it's bogging down even though it's getting boost. It pulls very inconsistently. And yes I checked the turbo for shaft play. It has close to none. Also when I get above 5k rpms the car starts to sputter/cut out.
 
Continuity
noun
the unbroken and consistent existence or operation of something.

Applying this to electronics, it basically means the wire is connected on both sides with no breaks in it, or runs continuously. So the test is just to see if that wire is doing its job properly and delivering the signal. Hope you get it worked out! :thumb:
 
Research the leaking capacitors in the computer.Thats what it sounds like to me.

After devoting several hours of labor and hundreds of dollars in parts. I finally made the decision to just drop it off to a shop today. I'll be sure to post what the actual problem was once it gets straightened out.
 
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