93 eclipse 4g37 turbo.

[Breezio69]

Whole E Sheet...

If you are continuing to tube out the front end, I'd highly suggest you go get yourself a practice sheet of metal... like 16 gauge 18x18" sheet from home depot. You really need to practice your technique and getting a good solid bead if you expect any of that to stay together... even driving over a speed bump would probably compromise what you've got going on so far.

 

[Mischif]

Whole E Sheet...

If you are continuing to tube out the front end, I'd highly suggest you go get yourself a practice sheet of metal... like 16 gauge 18x18" sheet from home depot. You really need to practice your technique and getting a good solid bead if you expect any of that to stay together... even driving over a speed bump would probably compromise what you've got going on so far.

Just did this real quick. A piece of 16 gauge sheet. Had my arc welder set on low.

Back side, pretty sure the anealing means i have good penetration.

The actual bead.

Not very pretty. On the low setting it is very hard to get the arch started and keep it going. On top of that even on low i have to keep my rod moving extremely fast to keep from burning through. On the high setting its cake to start and keep the arch going, but it burns though almost instantly on 16 gauge. My welder just sucks since i can't control the amps. It gets the job done tho, even if it takes 10x the effort.

 

[Breezio69]

I'm not trying to dis or anything, I think the genuine effort you are putting into this car is great and shows you love this car (I'm 28 and have to tell my dad still to this day that I don't care my car breaks down).

I just really think you need to get your design together, tack it up with some good solid tack welds, and take it to someone with a welder that they can adjust the settings to set this thing up right.

I've welded everything up from cages, axles, suspension mounts, suspension links, to 1/4" steel bumpers, sheet metal... it goes on. We did a 14" extension on my dads jeep tj, frame rails, roll cage, body panels. Its now the length of a scrambler, or new rubicon jk... point is, you can't rely on a welder that has hi/low only and expect the speed of moving the stick to lay down a solid weld. You could have it on high and pass over it so quick just to "make it pretty" and not even bond the joint correctly, or it could even not get hot enough to do the job. Sure it feels solid to our touch, but you throw a couple thousand pounds of force on it and its toast.

Just please at least give it a thought, if you can't do it correctly and you know it isn't as safe as it could be, tack the thing up and pay someone $75-$100 to burn it in right. You can still take credit for all the fab

 

[Mischif]

So decided to fix all the cracks in my turbo manifold. There were alot. I modified it a bit too.

Would this opening being the way it is and not the size of the flange be one of the reasons why i spool so slow?

I was going to grind it open more but realized i would break through on the other side. So i just cut out that one side and welded in a piece of metal to open it up more.

I hope that helps spool up.

 

[maximum9898]

Just did this real quick. A piece of 16 gauge sheet. Had my arc welder set on low.

Back side, pretty sure the anealing means i have good penetration.

The actual bead.

Not very pretty. On the low setting it is very hard to get the arch started and keep it going. On top of that even on low i have to keep my rod moving extremely fast to keep from burning through. On the high setting its cake to start and keep the arch going, but it burns though almost instantly on 16 gauge. My welder just sucks since i can't control the amps. It gets the job done tho, even if it takes 10x the effort.

I'm not sure you really understand the metallurgical way that welding happens. When something is getting annealed you are simply fanning the torch after the weld has been done. This is done to remove internal stresses on the metal and toughen it. When something is annealed that isn't telling you if you got good penetration or not. Knowing you got penetration on something is to take the piece of metal. And you would turn the bead on the metal onto it's face and see if the weld has held up. If there is any cracking, porosity, undercut on the welds, the list go's on and on and on. That is the exact thing that you will perform to get the certification for any form of welding. I don't care if its GTAW, GMAW, or SMAW. If I took yours and showed the person certifying me he would laugh. He wouldn't even attempt to break the weld. The weld would probably break if I hit it with a hammer.

And also what electrode are you using to weld this stuff together with. I normally can tell what type of electrode someone is using by the look of the welds. I can't even guess what your using, it looks that bad. There isn't even a bead that remotely started to form. But if I had a guess it would be 7014 maybe 7018. And in that case if they are those electrodes. You've failed before the weld got put onto the metal. Neither of those are meant to hold any force or keep things structural.

You have a long way before you should even begin to work on fabricating anything for any car. You don't even have a welder that can set the amps to the proper level for the steel your using. I'm not trying to beat you up, its simply a fact that if this is on a public road. Its going to hurt yourself or even worse some innocent by-standard. And why would this happen. Well your welds are crap, you don't even have a grasp on metallurgy. I suggest you take classes at your local community college for welding and metallurgical engineering. After a few semesters come back with a new car, new welder, and a good grasp on what a good weld looks like and what a crappy one looks like.

 

[Mischif]

The weld would probably break if I hit it with a hammer.

And also what electrode are you using to weld this stuff together with.

E6013 60k psi tensile strength.

That plate was prefectly flat before i took the hammer to it. Welds didn't brake... Bigger hammer?

Heres some beads on 1/8" plate that i did real quick just now.

Tested with a hammer again.

Held up just fine.

 

[Breezio69]

He means you could break the welds with a hammer on stuff you welded together... why would the sheet of metal break when you just weld it flat? The fact you did that to "prove him wrong" shows that you really don't know too much about what you are doing.

The biggest thing to keep in mind is safety, this isn't safe. I'm still trying to figure out what the bar is or what its supposed to be doing. If you have been getting into a lot of accidents then why does a bar run into the passenger compartment? Seems like something to impale yourself or your passenger.

Go pop into the "show your recent weld" thread and learn something before you kill someone.

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

Ah, yes. The famous, industry standard, chassis-hammer test.

Put it under even a fraction of the rod's rated stress (compressive, tensile, a combination of forces from different angles) while its being vibrated, heated and cooled under load for a couple hundred miles and give that thing a nice good whack.. like the equivalent of several hundred (or thousand) newtons at an oblique angle from a nasty pot hole on a 45mph street.

How, for so many, does pride overcome intelligence? I'm hoping you have to take this to inspection as "special construction" ahead of registration. But being in TX I would not be surprised if it's not required...

 

[Breezio69]

And on another note. The quality of the pic sucks, but if you look at the first one, you have welded with so much heat the metal looks compromised. When you have no adjustment for speed and current you are welding blindly. Looks like its as brittle as a pringles chip where you welded those two beads... sure a hammer hit won't magically break through it, but it wouldn't have any strength to hold or bear any weight, the metal would just tear like a piece of paper.

One last thing to think about. You are a kid swinging a hammer, in real life and in automobiles, welds hold thousands of pounds of force through load changes, g forces, bumps, accidents... if its just a backyard hobby and you don't care to learn how to weld, then just keep your car in your own backyard and don't put others at risk.

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

This is someone who admits earlier in the thread to substance abuse and driving under the influence.. a special sort of callous, selfish and ignorant.

 

[Breezio69]

At least this guy has a chance to save this car, and anyone else in his path. Unlike the rwd subframe guy, haha...

 

[EVO9_Inside]

^'d
great read, very few times do you see people who should have stopped a long time ago, keep at it and over come some turmoil, or lack of knowledge. keep at it man.
that front end does have me thankful im a few states away though..

 

[maximum9898]

E6013 60k psi tensile strength.

That plate was prefectly flat before i took the hammer to it. Welds didn't brake... Bigger hammer?

Heres some beads on 1/8" plate that i did real quick just now.

Tested with a hammer again.

Held up just fine.

Man that's not the point I was trying to make, not to go weld on flat piece of metal with no structural support or weight of a 3,000lb car. The welds on your car are what I meant. But it wasn't a literal thing to do, more of an analogy honestly. But I can see the welds cracking in the pictures. Especially the wheel well where its been painted over with red paint. The shit you said has held up for 10 months. Well it didn't hold up at all, I see the cracking in the pictures let alone in person.

I was at the junkyard a week ago and seen cars in better shape.

 

[untouchablecc]

Im not going to rag on him for his decisions and lifestyle because I get tired of the pre-madonas on here. I don't agree with some of his lifes decisions but you gotta give him one thing. Hes dedicated and honest and has not argued with anyone in his journal that has literally bashed him. Good bad or ugly everyone has a thought or opinion of his build and car. Why? Its interesting unlike many other builds on here. This is a true GET ER DUN kinda build. I can't say for sure if I like it or not but Ill keep reading.

I would really like to share my personal opinion though. PLEASE PLEASE get a new shell. They really are not that expensive or hard to find. For what your going to pay to fabricate all this its just not worth it. A 1.8 engine and trans is so easy to take out its just not worth build a whole new front end unless your going to track this thing.

 

[maximum9898]

Trust me I do not care what anyone does with there life ANYONE. But when it starts to become a safety problem for children playing on the road. Some grandma walking her dog, I get a little disturbed. Why even risk putting someone else's life in danger. Scrap this pile and buy a new shell they aren't that expensive for a fwd shell. Its gonna be cheaper to buy a new shell then fix.

 

[Breezio69]

Running 1 and 2g's here in ut that aren't gst or gsx go for $800-$1700. You'll spend half that in metal to do the front end the right way... just sayin

 

[Mischif]

I'm not an idiot, i've been tested. Haha.

 

[Dopey dsm]

Hi I have a 1992 gs eclipse sohc, that I am trying to do a street build on but right now I am having I think computer problems, my seat belt regulator, heating, Air conditioning, defroster, radio, speakers, and seat belt locker when you slam on the brakes all stopped working at the same time I have checked all fuses and wiring under the steering wheel, and under the hood, but my guess is that it is either the eci, or the computer, But my car is obd1 and cant check it on diagnostic test, anyone have any suggestions, or solutions?

 

[untouchablecc]

Pm him. This is a build Journal not a post.

 

[redgen1]

This is a great read,
In one of the pictures you can see the car has a safety inspection sticker. Texas only requires:
Items of Inspection for a Passenger Car
05.01 Inspect Every Passenger Car For: (Listed in suggested order of inspection)

* Check for evidence of Financial Responsibility

1. Horn
2. Windshield Wipers
3. Mirror
4. Steering
5. Seat Belts
6. Brakes (system) (Parking - beginning with 1960 models)
7. Tires
8. Wheel Assembly
9. Exhaust System
10. Exhaust Emission System (beginning with 1968 models)
11. Beam Indicator (beginning with 1948 models)
12. Tail Lamps (2); (1) if 1959 model or earlier
13. Stop Lamps (2); (1) if 1959 model or earlier
14. License Plate Lamp (1)
15. Rear Red Reflectors (2)
16. Turn Signal Lamps (beginning with 1960 models)
17. Head Lamps (2)
18. Motor, Serial, or Vehicle Identification Number
19. Gas caps on vehicles 2-24 model years old
20. Window Tint.

I think he has it covered see first item checked Insurance. With his new modification it will be much safer than it was before. A New frame cannot hold a 3000GT radiator or the other mods he has done.

I don't see this being any less safe than a VW rail. If he wants to keep this car and drive, I think its great, he is not breaking any laws.

 

[Mischif]

Picked up a cross member the other day from the junkyard. Finally able to move forward. So i went to work and got the the front rails tied together now.

Now i just got to go back and trim some of the tubes, and weld the crap out of everything. Then once i do that im going to go back and add some more tubes.

Heres what i have in mind.

Yellow lines = What i have to trim off.
Red lines= where i want to and some more tubes to reinforce everything
Blue line= where i need to add in a 1/8" plate
brown line= Where i plan on adding another smaller diameter tube. Thinking of 1" OD
Green line= Trying to decide if i should add a tube there connecting them ???

Also not sure how i should do the "red line" tubes. Should i use the same diameter tube(1 3/4 O.D) i've used for everything else, or would a 1" O.D tube be big enough?

 

[ceedawg]

Picked up a cross member the other day from the junkyard. Finally able to move forward. So i went to work and got the the front rails tied together now.

Now i just got to go back and trim some of the tubes, and weld the crap out of everything. Then once i do that im going to go back and add some more tubes.

Heres what i have in mind.

for each his own I guess!!!

 

[Mischif]

Not exactly how i drew it out.

Reused and modified the old square tube front end since it had my front fender supports and light mounts already.

 

[Mischif]

Made mounts for my side mount, so now it wont just be hanging there. That should keep my hotside pipes from popping off.

Made the front mounts for my crossmember.

Still need to do front bumber support and redo the bottom radiator support again.

 

[AEM2013]

Hey Mischif I have a question for you. I'm doing a transmission swap. I'm going from a 1993 automatic that took a crap to a 1992 manual trany. I would like to know what you did for the clutch hydraulic pump assembly. My 93 doesn't have the hole for the pump. I have everything ready. Both transmissions are out and I'm ready for the manual to go in. I would think that you would want to support it with something stiff like and 1/8" steal plate on the back so that nothing will crack. Also should I use stubs like the manufacture does or just use bolts and nuts with lock washers?
Thank you!!!