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9 to 10 Second Auto 1g Trans Need Input!

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Maxthepersonz

Supporting VIP
350
62
Feb 3, 2014
Madison, Wisconsin
I am hoping to pull some 10 second passes out of this car. No idea if I can go faster or not yet LOL. My brand new setup is a FP green, JMF race intake manifold, and the car is being retuned to e85 and has some headwork done as well. Stock 6 bolt block with 55k original miles.


I have heard things about re stalling the stall converter and getting a new torque converter but I'm clueless on what to choose and who to have do the work. I am honestly on a budget and can't afford some of these $1200 converters out there unless that's my only option. I definitely am willing to save and spend money to get stuff right though.

What trans coolers would you guys
recommend and where about should I go mounting it? My 1g still has working fogs and everything it's "stock" appearing besides the exhaust. Honda kids never know better.
 
I am hoping to pull some 10 second passes out of this car. No idea if I can go faster or not yet LOL. My brand new setup is a FP green, JMF race intake manifold, and the car is being retuned to e85 and has some headwork done as well. Stock 6 bolt block with 55k original miles.


I have heard things about re stalling the stall converter and getting a new torque converter but I'm clueless on what to choose and who to have do the work. I am honestly on a budget and can't afford some of these $1200 converters out there unless that's my only option. I definitely am willing to save and spend money to get stuff right though.

What trans coolers would you guys
recommend and where about should I go mounting it? My 1g still has working fogs and everything it's "stock" appearing besides the exhaust. Honda kids never know better.
See if you can get something from a NASCAR. At the end of the season, they usually sell stuff off pretty cheap. The Z06 cooler also works well. You NEED a good converter if you want your trans to last. They soak up much of the shock from launches and hard shifts. You'll want IPT end clutch kit ( http://www.importperformancetrans.c...pt-end-clutch-kit---dsm--mitsubishi-1671.html ) or something comparable. You'll want a shift kit, Translab is very popular ( http://www.importperformancetrans.c...lab-shift-kit-high-performance-type-1672.html ) or something like this: http://www.roadsurge.com/products and good fluids along with the cooler and you should be set. Also call up English Racing and ask about Metro Trans. That's who builds the auto in their 8 Second drag car.\
http://englishracing.net/contact-us/
http://kiggly-racing.com/overall_approach
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/best-type-of-auto-trans-fluid.413398/
http://www.atdsm.com/transcare.html
 
Thank you so much for the reply man. The trans I am buying from my friend has the Translab shift kit and IU think the IPT clutch end kit as well but I will need to ask him. I'm gonna have to give them a call if the converter is that important damn this is going to cost a lot, again. With these cars spending the $ the first time is always the way to do it though.
 
If you don't get the stock converter restalled by a good shop, or buy an aftermarket converter, you will cut 3 second sixty foots with that setup.
 
Thank you so much for the reply man. The trans I am buying from my friend has the Translab shift kit and IU think the IPT clutch end kit as well but I will need to ask him. I'm gonna have to give them a call if the converter is that important damn this is going to cost a lot, again. With these cars spending the $ the first time is always the way to do it though.
Glad to help :). The converter is very important with larger turbos and power levels. Yes, I agree. Get all the spending out of the way and they will be reliable. Just get your fluids right. I recommend Using what Kiggly says to use and see what English uses when you call them too.
 
Here is what I was running for 3yrs until I finally broke 4 teeth off the planetary:

Stock internal Trans.
Stock Restalled Converter
The car did 11.3 @ 130.75 with a garbage 1.9 60ft. (I think radials/slick instead of fully inflated street tires would have helped a lot)

I build 11-12psi at 3600 on the stock restall. I have built more at higher RPMs but I spin tires if I make more than that.

Another thing to consider about cooler placement, and I know not everyone has this issue, but when I had it placed between my FMIC and radiator, the car kept over heating. (Trans dumping 200f+ heat right in front of the radiator). I moved the cooler to where this washer fluid tank used to be, and no more over heating problems.

I crossed the finish line at 8000rpm on the dot. RPMS when shifting dropped down to around 6000rpm if I remember correctly.
 
My son has a Metro trans in his 2G and it is a very good trans. Also has a 9" converter that stalls around 4000. Launches hard and ran 12.8 on a 20G turbo, but this year he went to a Holset HX40....yet to get to the track though but he expects much more since he also has a new Whalen Speed (thanks John) stroker in it. We (well I) put IPT end clutches in his other dsm (97 Spyder) and a Translab 175 shift kit and it works very good with his stock converter. In his Metro trans car Talon, he installed a shift box also to cut the time in between shifts down and it rocks! One very important note, if you buy a filter for the trans, make sure they are exactly the same, as some vendors have change their designs (WIX in this case). If they differ in any way, make sure that it comes supplied with SHORTER bolts to attach it to the trans. He didn't notice and put the original bolts in for it and they ended up being too long and broke his valve body as the company had recessed the attachment points and were suppose to supply shorter bolts but didn't. He had to find a different valve body and I changed out all of the springs and valves that I had just put into the first one for his shift kit. In his 97 Talon, he put his cooler behind the opening for the drivers side fog light, attached with plumbers strap and it has done a good job. I don't know if our 1G's have the same room for a cooler in that location though.
 
Just to clarify things:

-End clutch kit is for over drive (4th gear) so you don't really need those for the quarter mile since the goal is to NOT SHIFT INTO 4TH
-Shift Kit - is a kit installed on the valve body to increase line pressure and create faster shifts
-Shift box - is an electrical unit that also increases line pressure and allows you to shift gears when u want (takes the place of the Transmission computer TCU)
 
So true....do not do pulls in OD!!! You WILL burn it out and have no overdrive for cruising to the track. Then without OD the trans temps will go up. I only put the end clutch kit in because it was a daily driver for him and saved him gas money. The shift kit involves replacing springs IN the valve body, requiring removal and some passages get larger orifice holes for faster shifting or more line pressure. Nice of TalonSpeed to define each, thanks!
 
I rebuilt my own transmission for around 350. That included a red alto full rebuild kit, kiggley front clutch kit, trans lab shift kit, and a bushing kit. The alto kit comes with the upgraded end clutch kit included. Every seal, gasket, o ring is included for the transmission AND transfer case.
I went with a 92 inhibitor (transmission is a 93) so I could do the kiggley wiring mod and run full line pressure full time. I also daily drive the car. Shifting is crisp and quick.
I mounted my cooler in the stock side mount intercooler location.
I haven't raced it yet due to crappy weather here in Houston, but soon.
I would agree on the restall for the stock converter. Your choice of cams and turbo will decide where that will be. Chances are, you will have to dyno the car to get the best idea on stall choice.
 
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Good thing you brought that up Chump, Kiggly flexplate is definately a must. He broke his factory stock plate and we swore it was a rod knock. Kudo's on that!!
 
Why exactly does overdrive burn out? I had never heard that one before actually very good to know. I think I've done a pull one time up there but just once. Thank's for all this info guys more input is appreciated if anyone else want to chime in. Should I restall my converter, or if not what one should I buy? Who should I have restall it?
 
The end clutches on the trans. Just not enough pressure to hold the clutch pack tight on a hard pulling high horse car.
 
End clutches can also smoke due to a bad bushing in the connector shaft. The best mod I did to my transmission was the kiggley wiring mod. I've tried chips and the shift kit, still wasn't what I was looking for. Ended up doing the manumatic wiring mod and love it.
 
I was told that over 100ft/lbs of torque in overdrive will make it live a VERY short life. So, as mentioned above, don't do roll on pulls in overdrive.

It'd be nice to have a protection against this in case someone else drives the car.... like no TPS > than 15% over 2000rpms if the overdrive gear is engaged.
 
I've run a 10.5 on the stock converter with a FP green XL. 1.5 60'. I've found that the smim kills the low end torque you need to get up on the stall.
 
I've run a 10.5 on the stock converter with a FP green XL. 1.5 60'. I've found that the smim kills the low end torque you need to get up on the stall.

What is SMIM? Sounds super familiar but I forgot.

I got everything I think to have a badass trans LOL
IPT shift kit
IPT end clutches
IPT Restall converter
Kiggy clutches
Kiggly flex plate
Shift box
 
SMIM is sheet metal intake manifold. SMIM, tubular exhaust manifolds, cams, anything that reduces torque from 2k-4k rpm will make the car harder to stall. So people buy high stall converters that are easier to stall up and stall up to a higher rpm. Down side is the car feels slow!!! taking off from a light when doing normal driving.
 
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