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1G 4g64 source vehicle ?

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92GVR4SC

15+ Year Contributor
62
4
May 17, 2006
Cayce, South_Carolina
I'm looking to do 2.3 stroker in my Galant VR4.

I have access to 1992 mitsu mighty max with a 2.4 litr., a 1996 mitsu mighty max 2.4 litr.,
or a 1990 mitsu mighty max with a 2.4 litr.

I figure the 1990 and 1992 are six bolt motors.
Is the 1996 might max a 6 bolt or a 7 bolt is the question??? or are all mighty maxes in the 90 to 96 yrs models 6 bolt motors??

From what I've gather the mighty max from
1990–1996 2.4 L 4G64 I4, 116 hp (87 kW)
Wide block design for all transmissions.

I just don't want to waste time pulling transmissions to find out. I would much rather have a newer 1996 motor, but I have access to the 1992 as a second choice assuming the bottom end in ok.

any factual information would be appreciated.
 
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Just like dsms pal, I'd assume 93+ are 7 bolts. Just to save sum headache Ya know. Like u said u don't want to pull the tyranny to find out. Just my two cents
 
Wideblocks won't work for our fwd/awd applications, so verify that first, but the 90 would be my first recommendation.

Or you can look for pre-92 eagle summit vans, hyundai sonatas, they should come with g4cs narrow-block engines. or if you can find a 94 galant (good luck), they came with a 7 bolt 2.4 dohc so it would have alot of the specific parts.

any other dsm 4g64 2.4 up to 98 should work, you'll have to block some oil drain-back holes and sort out the timing belt fitment, as eell as a few other small details.
 
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Having done this in my 1g already, I know that the 4G64's in the MightyMax's are about 1.5" wider than the trans-mount 4G64's found in the FWD/AWD Summit's, Expo's, and Colt Vista Wagons. Basically any RWD 4G64 block won't bolt up to your GVR4's narrower transmission.

The 4G64's found in the Summit, Expo, & Colt Vista Wagons are similar to DSMs, in regard to the 6 vs 7 bolt motor years, but I've seen 92's that came with 7-bolt motors in the wrecking yards... Thankfully though, they are just like 1G & 2G's (when it comes to the motor mounts) to easily identify what motor you're looking at in the yards... the Summit/Expo/Vista 6-bolt motors have 3 motor mounts & 1 trans mount, while the 7-bolts have 3 trans mounts & 1 motor mount.

All of the 90-93 Summit/Expo/Vista motors are 4G64 SOHC from the factory. I sourced mine out of a 91 Expo, some 9+ years ago... no blocking off of oil return ports is required. The stock 4G63 DOHC HGG is almost identical to that of the 4G64, shy of a larger bore & "D" shaped compression rings. -I originally got the idea of building up my 4G64, after helping a buddy swap his HGG in his 2.4L MightyMax & comparing his failed HGG to my old OEM 7-bolt 4G63 HGG.

I have some pics of my build & refresh in a DropBox link below... Some of them show the 4G64 HGG swap in my buddy's MightMax & others show interference issues that needed to be clearanced in my specific build. A lot of those were caused from using Kiggly's 6-bolt Main Brace Kit in addition to the 6-bolt 4G64's large one-piece main caps:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ecqjwzb68e02p1y/AADC-nycpdIuvsTLH1bZDoLBa?dl=0

Hope these help
 
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Having done this in my 1g already, I know that the 4G64's in the MightyMax's are about 1.5" wider than the trans-mount 4G64's found in the FWD/AWD Summit's, Expo's, and Colt Vista Wagons. Basically any RWD 4G64 block won't bolt up to your GVR4's narrower transmission.

The 4G64's found in the Summit, Expo, & Colt Vista Wagons are similar to DSMs, in regard to the 6 vs 7 bolt motor years, but I've seen 92's that came with 7-bolt motors in the wrecking yards... Thankfully though, they are just like 1G & 2G's (when it comes to the motor mounts) to easily identify what motor you're looking at in the yards... the Summit/Expo/Vista 6-bolt motors have 3 motor mounts & 1 trans mount, while the 7-bolts have 3 trans mounts & 1 motor mount.

All of the 90-93 Summit/Expo/Vista motors are 4G64 SOHC from the factory. I sourced mine out of a 91 Expo, some 9+ years ago... no blocking off of oil return ports is required. The stock 4G63 DOHC HGG is almost identical to that of the 4G64, shy of a larger bore & "D" shaped compression rings. -I originally got the idea of building up my 4G64, after helping a buddy swap his HGG in his 2.4L MightyMax & comparing his failed HGG to my old OEM 7-bolt 4G63 HGG.

I have some pics of my build & refresh in a DropBox link below... Some of them show the 4G64 HGG swap in my buddy's MightMax & others show interference issues that needed to be clearanced in my specific build. A lot of those were caused from using Kiggly's 6-bolt Main Brace Kit in addition to the 6-bolt 4G64's large one-piece main caps:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ecqjwzb68e02p1y/AADC-nycpdIuvsTLH1bZDoLBa?dl=0

Hope these help
Thank you for sharing this information.. So you are saying my best bet is the 1990 mighty max? I'm simply looking for a good 2.4 ltr crankshaft so I can convert my 4G63 into a 2.3 ltr. Someone here stated look for a 1994 galant, but I would think that is a 7 bolt crank, and would not be compatible with my 1G motor. Its rare to find a summit, expo, vista in my local yards. In fact I'll have to drive a few hours to these other yards to pull a bottom end to get the crank.
 
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Thank you for sharing this information.. So you are saying my best bet is the 1990 mighty max? I'm simply looking for a good 2.4 ltr crankshaft so I can convert my 4G63 into a 2.4 ltr. Someone here stated look for a 1994 galant, but I would think that is a 7 bolt crank, and would not be compatible with my 1G motor. Its rare to find a summit, expo, vista in my local yards. In fact I'll have to drive a few hours to these other yards to pull a bottom end to get the crank.

I was unclear on what your intention was from the first post, assuming that you wanted to build an actual 4g64.

If you want to put a 4g64 crank in your gvr4, you need to verify if your car is indeed a 6 bolt (should be) or a 7 bolt. If doing this route, you will actually be building a 2.3 stroker, due to bore differences and lower deck height of the 4g63 block.

For the crank, I believe the 90 mighty max will have the correct 100mm 6 bolt crank you're looking for, but I'm not 100% sure the crank pulleys are swappable between the motors (tho I assume they are).

Great info @BoostedTalonTS, tho I will say the g4cs I have now (out of a 91 expo iirc) most certainly will need a couple of the oil drain back holes plugged. This may not be true for all 4g64/g64b/g4cs/2.4 blocks.
 
I was unclear on what your intention was from the first post, assuming that you wanted to build an actual 4g64.

If you want to put a 4g64 crank in your gvr4, you need to verify if your car is indeed a 6 bolt (should be) or a 7 bolt. If doing this route, you will actually be building a 2.3 stroker, due to bore differences and lower deck height of the 4g63 block.

For the crank, I believe the 90 mighty max will have the correct 100mm 6 bolt crank you're looking for, but I'm not 100% sure the crank pulleys are swappable between the motors (tho I assume they are).

Great info @BoostedTalonTS, tho I will say the g4cs I have now (out of a 91 expo iirc) most certainly will need a couple of the oil drain back holes plugged. This may not be true for all 4g64/g64b/g4cs/2.4 blocks.
That is what I meant, a 2.3 stroker.. A 2.4 100mm crank out of a 4G64 block installed in my 6 bolt GVR4 Motor.. I have the factory 1g 6 bolt motor in my galant.
 
Thank you for sharing this information.. So you are saying my best bet is the 1990 mighty max? I'm simply looking for a good 2.4 ltr crankshaft so I can convert my 4G63 into a 2.4 ltr. Someone here stated look for a 1994 galant, but I would think that is a 7 bolt crank, and would not be compatible with my 1G motor. Its rare to find a summit, expo, vista in my local yards. In fact I'll have to drive a few hours to these other yards to pull a bottom end to get the crank.

Ah, ok. You're actually looking to build a 2.3L stroker setup then (4g63 block, with a 4g64 100mm crank, & 150mm stock rod length = stroked 2.3L). I don't know about the MightMax cranks being 6 or 7 bolt.

I thought that you were looking to build a 2.4L (4g64 block, with a 4g64 100mm crank, & 150mm stock rod length = standard 2.4L).

Both blocks are similar, but the 4g64 block has a taller deck height & a larger OEM bore than the 4g63. Unfortunately all of the MightMax blocks will not work with your trans, so that's a no-go.

If you're looking to source a 4g64 100mm crank from a MightMax, I would think that the earlier model year would be your best bet (but don't quote me on that... I've never opened up a MightMax 2.4L bottom end before). But since you're in there, I would also grab the forward facing oil filter housing off of one of those MightMax's. They're good for doing oil filter relocation setups in our DSMs/GVR4's
 
So yes i would check the might max crank from the 90, it should have a 6 bolt 100mm crank that will work.

I believe wiseco and je still sell off the shelf pistons kits for 2.3 stroker builds.
 
Ah, ok. You're actually looking to build a 2.3L stroker setup then (4g63 block, with a 4g64 100mm crank, & 150mm stock rod length = stroked 2.3L). I don't know about the MightMax cranks being 6 or 7 bolt.

I thought that you were looking to build a 2.4L (4g64 block, with a 4g64 100mm crank, & 150mm stock rod length = standard 2.4L).

Both blocks are similar, but the 4g64 block has a taller deck height & a larger OEM bore than the 4g63. Unfortunately all of the MightMax blocks will not work with your trans, so that's a no-go.

If you're looking to source a 4g64 100mm crank from a MightMax, I would think that the earlier model year would be your best bet (but don't quote me on that... I've never opened up a MightMax 2.4L bottom end before). But since you're in there, I would also grab the forward facing oil filter housing off of one of those MightMax's. They're good for doing oil filter relocation setups in our DSMs/GVR4's
Thank you. So the 1990 mighty max "should be" the correct 100mm crank? and you say grab the oil filter unit as well. What about the oil pan and the pick up tube?? I've read in a few post there were some issues with clearance with the 4G63 Pick up when going to the 100mm crank.. Thanks again for the advice and help.
 
Great info @BoostedTalonTS, tho I will say the g4cs I have now (out of a 91 expo iirc) most certainly will need a couple of the oil drain back holes plugged. This may not be true for all 4g64/g64b/g4cs/2.4 blocks.

:thumb: I was under the impression that the 4gcs blocks were native to Hyundai applications. -Not that that matters much, other than you do need to block off some of its oil return galleries... other than that, they're just as stout as their Mitsu 4G64 equivalents.
 
Thank you. So the 1990 mighty max "should be" the correct 100mm crank? and you say grab the oil filter unit as well. What about the oil pan and the pick up tube?? I've read in a few post there were some issues with clearance with the 4G63 Pick up when going to the 100mm crank.. Thanks again for the advice and help.

I would think so, but I don't know for sure.

As for the oil pan & pick up, the MightMax oil pan is deeper & has a different ramp angle that would interfere with our AWD transfer case, not to mention that there is no turbo oil drain tube provision in it. The oil pick up tube is also longer than the 4g63 (to match the deeper pan), so that's out as well. I used a 4g63 oil pick up tube & pan in my build, but it will need to be clearanced in order to fit the 100MM crank, IIRC. You can see how I did mine, in my 4G64 build pics in the link above^^ Getting the 4G64 main caps & the Kiggly main braces to fit with the 4g63 oil pan was a PITA though, but you shouldn't have that issue, as you will be reusing the 4g63 main caps. -The 1&2 and 4&5 main cap bridge will need to be clearanced if you use a 4g64 100mm crank in your 4g63 block though.
 
Thanks for the info.. I pulled a crank yesterday out of a 1991 mitsu mighty max.. It's a 6 bolt 4G64. Looks pretty good. Does anyone have any experience or suggest knife edging the crank?? I know this would lighten the crank. I'm not sure if that's a good thing? Being you're trying to gain extra torque.. Any suggestion on Rods, pistons, rings, and bearings.. I beam, H beam.. Ross, ETC, I'm not looking to spend a ton of money, but I want a motor that will handle at least 500 HP. I mean a stock 6 bolt can sometimes do that. This is just a street car for weekend fun. Maybe a trip to the track every blue moon.

Is there something special about ordering new bearings for these cranks? It seems like I read something years ago, about getting the block number, and then having to match some Mitsubishi chart to get the correct bearings. Maybe this was only for the 7 bolt blocks??

Thanks for any help.
 
The reman cranks are fine as long as they’ve only been ground to clean up wear. If it was done properly the stock galley plugs are pulled and replaced with set screws.

All the mitsu 6-bolt 100mm cranks are weak. They have virtually no journal overlap and often break right at the #4 rod journal.

I’ve built around a dozen 2.3 strokers. It’s extremely difficult to find one that’s in spec and doesn’t need cleaned up, they’re 30 years old.
 
Honestly I wouldn't knife edge the crank, just balanced well, polished as needed, good bearings and some eagle rods/ whatever pistons you choose. That should be able to withstand your goals just fine.

I believe we ended up doing acl race bearings for my buddies lightning (750+ hp/800tq build), and i used king hp's on my last two 4gxx motors, been happy with both. Wiseco and JE both have 2.3 stroker pistons off the shelf, and eagle or manley rods will hold plenty of tq in H beam form.

Most of it comes down to your intended use, so my above comment pertains to a dd/occasional drag type setup.
 
Having done this in my 1g already, I know that the 4G64's in the MightyMax's are about 1.5" wider than the trans-mount 4G64's found in the FWD/AWD Summit's, Expo's, and Colt Vista Wagons. Basically any RWD 4G64 block won't bolt up to your GVR4's narrower transmission.

The 4G64's found in the Summit, Expo, & Colt Vista Wagons are similar to DSMs, in regard to the 6 vs 7 bolt motor years, but I've seen 92's that came with 7-bolt motors in the wrecking yards... Thankfully though, they are just like 1G & 2G's (when it comes to the motor mounts) to easily identify what motor you're looking at in the yards... the Summit/Expo/Vista 6-bolt motors have 3 motor mounts & 1 trans mount, while the 7-bolts have 3 trans mounts & 1 motor mount.

All of the 90-93 Summit/Expo/Vista motors are 4G64 SOHC from the factory. I sourced mine out of a 91 Expo, some 9+ years ago... no blocking off of oil return ports is required. The stock 4G63 DOHC HGG is almost identical to that of the 4G64, shy of a larger bore & "D" shaped compression rings. -I originally got the idea of building up my 4G64, after helping a buddy swap his HGG in his 2.4L MightyMax & comparing his failed HGG to my old OEM 7-bolt 4G63 HGG.

I have some pics of my build & refresh in a DropBox link below... Some of them show the 4G64 HGG swap in my buddy's MightMax & others show interference issues that needed to be clearanced in my specific build. A lot of those were caused from using Kiggly's 6-bolt Main Brace Kit in addition to the 6-bolt 4G64's large one-piece main caps:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ecqjwzb68e02p1y/AADC-nycpdIuvsTLH1bZDoLBa?dl=0

Hope these help
They did, thanks for sharing that.. So You did use a 2.4 block, if you are switching the motor the other way around, and using a different transmission?? So you are rear wheel drive car only?? It would seem Kiggly should have made the plates a precise fit where the end user didn't have do all the grinding to fit them correctly.
 
They did, thanks for sharing that.. So You did use a 2.4 block, if you are switching the motor the other way around, and using a different transmission?? So you are rear wheel drive car only?? It would seem Kiggly should have made the plates a precise fit where the end user didn't have do all the grinding to fit them correctly.

I don't think you're understanding my build... I did use a 4g64 block (& 100mm crank) with the stock trans & location. -Well a narrow 4g64 trans-mount block that was sourced from a 91 Expo, not a RWD MightMax wide block, like what the OP was originally asking about.

Everything was mostly a direct fit, shy of a few clearance issues due to the taller, independent main caps + the Kiggly main brace kit. -Kiggly made them correctly, for 99.9% of the 4g63 applications out there, but I wanted to do something different. You can see in my DropBox link pics above^^^ a RWD 4g64 bottom end that's in a 95 MightMax, with a 94 1g 7-bolt 4g63T DOHC HGG laid over it. -This HGG swap job was what originally gave me the idea to build up a 4g64 2.4L block, some 12 or so years ago. As you can see, they have the same footprint, shy of the oddly shaped "D" compression rings found in the OEM RWD 4g64 SOHC HGG & larger bore size.

A lot of the internal block clearance'ing was done to accommodate the Manley I-Beam TT rods (something that would also be needed in a 2.3L stroker setup, including the oil pick-up).
 
You also have to cut a groove into the suitcase handle [main caps] to make some clearance for the extra throw of the 2.4 crank, sometimes you have to grind some casting off the 4G63t blocks, just inspect all of it vary closely during assembly, if you use a kiggly main girdle you might also have to clearance that as well, I have heard about oil pans sometimes needing mods as well, just keep it all in mind when you set about building the motor.
 
You guys would save a lot of time if he used caps or ADA. You can cross reference parts and model numbers and find every single model that contained a particular model number part. There is no need to scour the internet looking for the answer.
 
You also have to cut a groove into the suitcase handle [main caps] to make some clearance for the extra throw of the 2.4 crank, sometimes you have to grind some casting off the 4G63t blocks, just inspect all of it vary closely during assembly, if you use a kiggly main girdle you might also have to clearance that as well, I have heard about oil pans sometimes needing mods as well, just keep it all in mind when you set about building the motor.

Yep, covered that back in http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/4g64-source-vehicle.517306/#post-153687264

It's really the rod cap & rod hardware that interferes with the $1&2 and #4&5 main cap braces. The beefier the rod, the more you will have to clearance, both in the bridged main caps & the internal webbing of the block

You guys would save a lot of time if he used caps or ADA. You can cross reference parts and model numbers and find every single model that contained a particular model number part. There is no need to scour the internet looking for the answer.

Absolutely! This topic has already been beaten to death, but I don't mind sharing my first hand experience
 
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