The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

400-500hp build help

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Rayski

Proven Member
65
3
Dec 14, 2013
Chicago, Illinois
Hey guys, planning out my build right now and I think I've got everything set, just would like input on the parts I've chosen, and if you guys would change/remove/add anything, thanks :thumb:

Engine
Stock rebuild
ARP L19 headstuds
Cometic mls 4 layer head gasket
HKS 272/272
ACL main bearings
ACL rod bearings
Balance shaft delete kit
3G lifters
Avid racing motor mounts
Non cruise throttle cable

Turbo
Old school FP green
FP cast manifold
Hallman pro mbc
VRSF FMIC
Tial Q 50mm bov

Fuel
93 pump gas
Walbro 255HP
STM rewire kit
Aeromotive afpr
FIC Bluemax 1250cc
Snow Performance stage 2 meth

Intake
FP 4" intake
K&N FIPK
EvoIII ported intake manifold
1G throttle body

Tuning
Dsmlink v3 SD
95 EEPROM ECU
AEM oil pressure gauge
AEM wideband
DEFI boost gauge

Exhaust
SRS 3" Catback
Ebay 3" Downpipe
Punishment SS o2 housing

Drivetrain
Competition stage 4 sprung clutch
RRE Shifter bushings
RRE SS clutch line
 
Definitely looks solid. Im sure you'll run in to other odds n ends you need, these cars luuuuuv your wallet!
I would raise issue with one thing: Since you are building everything else up, whats wrong with eagle/manley or manley/manley or any broad range of affordable rod/piston combos that are tried and true?
You're only talking an extra 700 bucks
Main studs you might look in to. That will require a line hone(or is it align hone?) the machinist will know. It'll cost a little extra but i think forged internals,stock crank, line hone with ARP mains would be a good addition to the bottom end.
Also, while they are pricey, a good fluidampr or equivalent is always a wise investment for the bottom end.
The AEM wb doesnt play quite as nice as other wb's with dsmlink. Im sure you're aware of that, its common knowledge. THe lc-2 wb would be a better choice, IMO
Avid mounts are the kitties titties but expensive. Have you looked in to making your own solid mounts? Its very cheap and you can choose how firm you want the compound. DIY motor mounts, give it a google and save a few hundred bucks. No body sees them anyway and as long as Form>Function, I call that a win link: to thread http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/maintenance-repairs/461695-35-performance-motor-mounts.html

With meth and that lil green, i dont see why you couldnt run north of 450whp.
 
Looks good so far im new to the DSM world im actually picking up my dark Plum pearl eclipse today and im hoping my build will end a little like yours, and the rods piston idea as stated above would really help. keep it up should be well worth it in the end.
 
This is a good start, but I think you picked the wrong turbo, unless you have some sort of magic super tuner. There sre some areas you could save a bit on and I would reallocate that money into other areas.
Here's what I would do differently:

Engine

Stock rebuild
ARP L19 headstuds
Cometic mls 4 layer head gasket Composite will work fine, especially with L19s. But whatever floats your boat
HKS 272/272 Some say these are ok on stock springs... I vote a little more cam and beehives to open up rpms with GSC s2 or kelfoprds 272s (Especially if you are doing BSE)
ACL main bearings
ACL rod bearings
Balance shaft delete kit
3G lifters
Avid racing motor mounts
Non cruise throttle cable

Turbo
Old school FP green You are going to be maxing the turbo out at 400 whp on 93oct without meth injectoin. This is realistically a 350hp turbo tops without meth or e85/race gas. Seriously reconsider this part. Your mods will support much more turbo. Look into the FP red HTA or the HX35 or HX40 in a bolt-on housing. You are going to change your intake, and FMIC pipes anyway. Might as well add oil lines and coolant lines to the equation and get a turbo that maxes your setup.
FP cast manifold
Hallman pro mbc
VRSF FMIC
Tial Q 50mm bov

Fuel
93 pump gas ****not if you want 400+ hp on a green...***
Walbro 255HP
STM rewire kit
Aeromotive afpr
FIC Bluemax 1250cc ***If you are seriously staying with pump and WILL NOT get E85, you could live with much smaller injectors like 1050's or 1100's with plenty of room. save you ~$100 or $70 also.
Snow Performance stage 2 meth

Intake
FP 4" intake *** this is cool and all, but you could make your own for less, and not have such hard bends. Get 45* silicone reducer and 4" straight aluminum pipe and go wild.
K&N FIPK
EvoIII ported intake manifold ****I honestly think this is a waste of time and effort. Save up for a real intake to match the cams and springs/rpm.
1G throttle body

Tuning
Dsmlink v3 SD
95 EEPROM ECU
AEM oil pressure gauge
AEM wideband
DEFI boost gauge These are some expensive ass gauges. But as you wish...

Exhaust
SRS 3" Catback
eBay 3" Downpipe
Punishment SS o2 housing All 3 of these are wise choices. CERAMIC COAT THE PR O2, or go MAP performance. PR uses Mild steel flanges. I didn't find out until after I ordered.

Drivetrain
Competition stage 4 sprung clutch Get a southbend kit from tim zimmer (twicks69). Will feel like stock and hold all the power you are about to make.
RRE Shifter bushings
RRE SS clutch line ****Not necessary unless your lines are crap.
 
I agree with boosted97gst, im in progress of a build with some what dame goals and I was doing research on keeping stock piston and rods. I had a few different opinions thinking keeping stock rods and go for pistons because 7 bolt pistons can be wimpy "maybe why the car I bought melted down a piston land". Anyway the extra cash adds to the build quality more than anything and is better just with the piece of mind you get when you're having fun. You know your not pushing stock internals made for low 200hp that can and have handled 375+hp builds to there breaking point. Youll most likely end up rebuilding the engine wishing you spent the money!
Hope you take this into consideration!
 
manley rods , valves pistons and springs eagle crank titanium seats main girdle arp mains and head studs hks cam gears and grav 280 cams ( not my choice but ok for now) ported head all machined blue printed good ass gaskets and fmic race half rad and a holset.... only reason at all I bought this car after talking to a few good tuners this set up may not be perfect but will take just about anything you throw at it was a dream come true when I got it for 2000 car included but hell the internals alone were the best find and now I build on and I still wont go easy as in injectors (only 950s) waiting for money for a good manifold and exhaust mani as well as o2 and exhaust and link 3 but I could slap together and drive but I want durability over hp what good is 500+ hp if you cant handle it??? BOOM!!!! their goes every dollar u spent..... I wanna be able too redline with confidence and know the hp im at isn't even hard on my motor.... good luck man
 
Looks like your off to a good start, but my personal advice would be to change the following.

Turbo: hx35 or hx40. Reason; they both are cheaper, both can make your power level conservatively with room to grow and is easy/cheap to rebuild. I like that it is DIY type of turbo. I have built many.

Motor mounts: save the money and just get the Prothane inserts or better yet the DIY kit on the suspenion site, I've done it and it is amazing for the price. Maybe even do it the Toms Turbo Garage way for almost free. And use the extra 100-150 for something else.

Meth: don't get it, with the money you save on this I would defenetely get the new stainless steel FIC injectors.

Injectors: with all the money you've saved elsewhere I would get the stainless injectors at FIc.

Intakenmanifold: unless you already have one or can get one fairly cheap then I would stick with the stock 1g which is proven for your goals. I personally have run 604fwhp through the stock intake manifold on low boost and room to grow, but my goals are way bigger so I changed to a. V3. Please consider this, it will save you a lot of time and money.

I would also consider external gate set up.

Please let me know what out think of my thoughts. Hope they are of some help. I have run the greens dnp the Holsets so I can give all advice I have from it. Good luck, God bless

Anthony B.
 
Last edited:
A few things
  • i would recommend are better valve springs and retainers to free up some revs (at least bc or evo springs)
  • Slightly Build the engine i like manley and i used JE but save some$ and go with manley pistons and checkout the crank (get it polished) maybe get the rotational assembly balanced. (Extra insurance at higher rpms)
  • Invest in an hx35 or 40 there spools are great for that large of a turbos will take there and then some.
Everything looks good other then that.
don't forget the Bov's, wastegates, and boost controllers.
Lc2's are great when wired because of the self calibration's
good luck with the goals man!
 
Looks like your off to a good start, but my personal advice would be to change the following.

Turbo: hx35 or hx40. Reason; they both are cheaper, both can make your power level conservatively with room to grow and is easy/cheap to rebuild. I like that it is DIY type of turbo. I have built many.

Motor mounts: save the money and just get the Prothane inserts or better yet the DIY kit on the suspenion site, I've done it and it is amazing for the price. Maybe even do it the Toms Turbo Garage way for almost free. And use the extra 100-150 for something else.

Meth: don't get it, with the money you save on this I would defenetely get the new stainless steel FIC injectors.

Injectors: with all the money you've saved elsewhere I would get the stainless injectors at FIc.

Intakenmanifold: unless you already have one or can get one fairly cheap then I would stick with the stock 1g which is proven for your goals. I personally have run 604fwhp through the stock intake manifold on low boost and room to grow, but my goals are way bigger so I changed to a. V3. Please consider this, it will save you a lot of time and money.

I would also consider external gate set up.

Please let me know what out think of my thoughts. Hope they are of some help. I have run the greens dnp the Holsets so I can give all advice I have from it. Good luck, God bless

Anthony B.

Hey thanks for the thorough reply. I'm having the rebuild done right now and have changed a few things from the OP. I am going with the Prothane insets, and E85 instead of meth. I'm also going with a 1g rod/2g piston combo, and 7 bolt head 6 bolt block. I could get a Fp Green for around the same price as an hx35, and wouldn't need an external wastegate setup so it would end up saving me money.[DOUBLEPOST=1411753558][/DOUBLEPOST]
manley rods , valves pistons and springs eagle crank titanium seats main girdle arp mains and head studs hks cam gears and grav 280 cams ( not my choice but ok for now) ported head all machined blue printed good ass gaskets and fmic race half rad and a holset.... only reason at all I bought this car after talking to a few good tuners this set up may not be perfect but will take just about anything you throw at it was a dream come true when I got it for 2000 car included but hell the internals alone were the best find and now I build on and I still wont go easy as in injectors (only 950s) waiting for money for a good manifold and exhaust mani as well as o2 and exhaust and link 3 but I could slap together and drive but I want durability over hp what good is 500+ hp if you cant handle it??? BOOM!!!! their goes every dollar u spent..... I wanna be able too redline with confidence and know the hp im at isn't even hard on my motor.... good luck man
Did you just come here to post your build? l.mao[DOUBLEPOST=1411753800][/DOUBLEPOST]
A few things
  • i would recommend are better valve springs and retainers to free up some revs (at least bc or evo springs)
  • Slightly Build the engine i like manley and i used JE but save some$ and go with manley pistons and checkout the crank (get it polished) maybe get the rotational assembly balanced. (Extra insurance at higher rpms)
  • Invest in an hx35 or 40 there spools are great for that large of a turbos will take there and then some.
Everything looks good other then that.
don't forget the Bov's, wastegates, and boost controllers.
Lc2's are great when wired because of the self calibration's
good luck with the goals man!

I'm going to keep stock rev limit for now, and I changed my goals to a max of 400hp so 1g rod/2g piston will be able to hold it
 
Last edited:
That's a good deal if you can get it for 200-400 bucks. But you can also run internally with the Holset so the hx35/40 would still be better in the end in effeciency.

But for the changes you made, I would say that was a great choice. Your defenetely on the right track. I like how you've come here for opinions and help and actually apply your learnings. Most almost never do that.

Good luck and God bless

Anthony B
 
That looks alright! Its all in opinions. But my advice to you is run pump gas its only 400hp and with those injectors you'll have plenty of room to grow for you in the future. Not to mention better mpg. But the most important thing is the tune,
no part can compensate for a bad tune!
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top