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3G brake master in a 2G

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Yes i have a 95 gsx no ABS and i want to upgrade the booster while the engine is out. I have read about the 3g master cylinder in the 2g but do i have to do a different flare on the end of the line where it hooks up? Or do i need to bubble flare it or does it work with none of that? Also i am looking for before and after pictures when installing. Also i have been looking for the place where to get it at? And after install do you use dot 3 fluid still or dot 4? Any info helps. Thanks
 
You can get them from the yard, or new. I got mine off a 2000 Eclipse with a 4 cylinder engine in it, Im not sure if people know yet that the 4 cylinder car has the same master as the 6 cylinder car, so I thought Id mention it. If youre getting the master cylinder from a yard, you need to check to make sure its not bad. The easiest way is to look at the booster where the master cylinder flange is mated to the booster. If the booster has peeling, bubbling paint here, or is rusty, the master cylinder has bad seals and is pissing brake fluid out, which leaks down the booster and eats the paint- find another donor car. Once you find one that doesnt show the above mentioned symptoms, unbolt it and then look at the back side of the master and it should be nice and clean and dry if its good.
The only car I know of that doesnt have the extension on the piston like the one in Gofer's pic above is the 3G Eclipse. The ones on the 2000+ Galants have the rod for sure, and the ones with the rod have to be paired to the booster they came off.
Regarding fluid, you can use DOT 3 or 4, the system doesnt care which, just stay away from DOT 5 unless youre starting with a completely dry system or something really nasty will happen.

Im a 1G guy, and Ive got the 3G eclipse master in my room while I wait on my 3000GT calipers, rotors and pads. I actually bolted the master to a 1G booster in a parts car in my yard, and it bolts right on and the reservoir even clears the strut tower and my strut tower brace, which of course is for another thread...
 
Yea i am sure i do on that one also. Should i get the booster and master cylinder at a junk yard or buy them both new?
 
New or used is up to you. Just remember, if youre getting a part from a 2000 model vehicle, the part is already 13 years old, however, if your master cylinder started to leak in a few years, you can just get a Mitsu rebuild kit and still be cheaper than purchasing a new master cylinder. I wouldnt be concerned with buying a new booster, they rarely fail, in my opinion. You can also easily make a booster look very nice simply by washing the outside (dont get anything in it) with soap and water, scuffing it with a green Scotchbrite pad, washing it again, then drying it and hitting it with high temp, rattle can clearcoat from the parts store hehe...
 
Unfortunately I believe the rebuild kit for 3G MC can not be purchased from the dealer or their price makes it more convenient to buy a new one. What I did when I acquired mine at the junkyard was exactly what recommended before, that is inspecting for any trace of leakage on the BB, grab the good BB and MC as well as a spare MC from a car that did not have a BB. I took both MC apart and inspected the rubber seals for any crack or hardened surfaces, found none (I suspect that both MC had been recently replaced, one in particular had no sign of oxidation), put them back together. Granted, my car is still on jack stands so...not a real issue so far!
 
^^Are you saying you were somehow able to get the #42 booster into your 1G, or that your just purchased the booster with the master and havent bolted it on yet? Reason I ask is I tried the bigger booster, but it wouldnt clear the strut tower, so I gave up because Im not looking to do any mods to the body to get that booster in. I did use my micrometer on the 1G master and 3G master to see if the 1G booster rod would be engaging the piston in the 3G master at the same distances, and the 3G piston seems to be about .125" deeper, so I believe I will be removing the acorn nut at the end of the 1G booster rod and finding a longer acorn nut, or fabbing one, Im going to test the braking before doing so though.
 
Ok so i can get a brake booster and master cylinder from junk yard? just as long as it don't have a rod right?And the year of eclipse i get it from is a 2000?
 
^^Are you saying you were somehow able to get the #42 booster into your 1G, or that your just purchased the booster with the master and havent bolted it on yet? Reason I ask is I tried the bigger booster, but it wouldnt clear the strut tower, so I gave up because Im not looking to do any mods to the body to get that booster in. I did use my micrometer on the 1G master and 3G master to see if the 1G booster rod would be engaging the piston in the 3G master at the same distances, and the 3G piston seems to be about .125" deeper, so I believe I will be removing the acorn nut at the end of the 1G booster rod and finding a longer acorn nut, or fabbing one, Im going to test the braking before doing so though.

I did not install the 3g combo (BB+MC) on my 1g because I need to get the car running first. I did check with another member on here that did in fact install the combo and reported no fitting problem, but I am also aware of some other member that apparently did have some fitting problem (you can refer to the EVO Caliper for 2G and 1g thread).

I am in the process of making new custom brake lines using pre-cut brake lines from autozone that I will bubble flare at the MC end. I plan to mock up the lines from the proportional valve to the MC using a wire hanger so I don't have to remove the lines until I am ready to actually install the 3G BB+MC and also because bending the wire will be way easier than bending the actual brake line (or so I hope). I am also practicing to shape bubble flares.

I forgot to mention that my 1g currently sports a much wider BB from a 92ish Galant with room to spare, I did indeed measure the 3G BB and I do not expect any fitting issue but I would swear on it until I have it on.

This is one of the thread I was talking about brakes went from wet cardboard to getting thrown thru the window

This is a pic of the 3G BB in a 1g as seen from the top 3g BB ina 1G (top view), in a PM the posting member told me that he did not have to modify the strut tower in order to make it fit but it is indeed a tight fit, which is also the reason I am planning to custom make both brake lines and not just the one that moves from the top to the side.
 
Ok i will look at the junk yard next time i go. I have no ABS so do i need a eclipse with no ABS? Also is this the best way to go or should i get it new?
 
Looks like going this route isnt a direct plug in for the stock 2g sensor? From what I understand I can just delete this sensor anyways? I believe it is just to monitor fluid level for a dummy light? and with the wiring removed no light will come on in the dash?
 
I have a flaring tool kit. So when I get my 3g BMC I will just add the second flare. The kits are cheap. My tool guy had one from KD tools for 60 dollars. I made my own oil feed line for my stock turbo. Then I upgraded to a 16g with ss line. but good thing I have it because I have to install a AFPR. With the stock intake manifold still in the car, I had to move my brake fluid container and there was no were to put it. So. To put the AFPR were the brake fluid container was i will need the 3g MBC and BB. sad to say I just bought the 95 BMC from STM the real oem unit. FML. HaHa.
I just got a brake master cylinder and brake booster from a junk yard. Everything looked brand new, no corrosion. I had a hard time with the engine in the car but I was able to flip it backwards, and fit it in tightly. Once it was in past the intake manifold I flipped it back and it bolted right up. Then I installed the BMC and just bent that one line. I also cut enough off the 3g sensor wire that I was able to cut my old connector solder the same wires, yellow to yellow and black to black, then a small amount of tape then shrink wrap and it couldn't get much better. My car is about to be complete Jnz is sending a 91 cas pigtail $51.99 and when I make the harness I will update this thread. At the moment it feels real stiff and my brakelights are on but thats after the install and no vaccum assist. I also aint going to be able to bleed the calipers untill I get brake pads.
 
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^^You can use the one youve got, but youve got to get the booster for it as well because of the rod that sticks out. You can get the booster off a 2001 Galant for sure as the Galant has the very same master cylinder you are describing, and the outside dimensions of its booster is the same as the #42.

To all who are bolting the inverted flare lines to the master cylinder designed for a DPS (drill point seat), this is just plain scary. One of the things I do for a living is building brake lines of all types. When the master cylinder is dry and the lines are drained, why not just take the lines off the porportioning valve and bring em to a shop that fabricates brake tubing and have them cut off the inverted flare and put a DPS flare on the lines for you? Itll cost less than ten bucks and youll have the piece of mind knowing you dont have to worry about cracking your tubes by over- tightening the crap out of them to get the mismatched seats to seal. Not trying to start shite, just a little FYI.:thumb:
Thanks for the information here. :thumb:
 
Do you need both the booster and MC? I installed the MC but my car isn't back up and driving yet.
 
Adam (black_gst) did, he said it was a big PITA but he did it. I had my SMIM off doing other work on the car and decided to install the BB/BMC then and I was still cussing because of those power steering lines.

:dsm:
 
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