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2G 2G rear subframe build for 3000GT rearend

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As of last night, 90% of the welding is done. Just the really hard-to-reach spots left to do and I'll knock that out tonight. Then it's sway bar brackets on Thursday night, and heat treat/stress relief on Friday night. If all goes as planned, I'll pull it out of the jig Saturday morning and get a weight on it.

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I really liked how you integrated the third bolt location on the rear diff cover. I've seen a few that have only used two bolts.
 
Any weight differences on 3k vs evo lsd vs 2g lsd I haven't done my research on what I should roadcourse yet. Seems like this version is heaviest other than a stock subframe. Not sure if it's overkill for a non drag car. Launching might become fun however ...

To clarify I'm talking diff weight and is it worth it in a car built for corners on a strict diet. Seems the subframe itself is marginally heavier than your other version by a few lbs. It all adds up
 
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Any weight differences on 3k vs evo lsd vs 2g lsd I haven't done my research on what I should roadcourse yet. Seems like this version is heaviest other than a stock subframe. Not sure if it's overkill for a non drag car. Launching might become fun however ...

To clarify I'm talking diff weight and is it worth it in a car built for corners on a strict diet. Seems the subframe itself is marginally heavier than your other version by a few lbs. It all adds up
There's definitely a weight difference between rearends. I don't have any unmolested ones laying around to weigh, but the 3000GT rear is definitely larger and heavier. Definitely overkill for a auto-x or road race car.

The weight on this subframe came in exactly the same as the road race version that I build for the DSM rearend.
 
Sorry I am a bit late to a party, outstanding job, Paul! how does that compare to a stock rear sub-frame?
Thanks, Leon!

Compared to the OE subframe (aside from the obvious difference of holding a 300GT rearend), it offers a few advantages. #1 is weight savings. I can build a subframe to save 24-46 lbs depending on options. #2 is that it offers better rearend bracing. The rearend is solid-mounted on both sides of the pinion end, and also offers 4 mounting points on the cover instead of two like the factory. This will help prevent movement that leads to breakage, and no fancy, expensive rearend cover is needed. The kit includes LCA’s and toe arms, which are both "tunable" in length. And the inboard pick-up points on the subframe all have an option for a 1” raise, which will raise the instant centers and roll center. All attachment points of the arms have Teflon-lined spherical bearings instead of bushings to eliminate bushing deflection, which should make the rear suspension more predictable. And it just looks way cooler under the car. :)
 
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